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Discussion Starter #21
Hmm, could be?? You'll first need to identify the threads in the filter. Then identify the threads on the end of the hose...NPT, JIC? Finally, you'll need to identify the fittings needed to connect the oil line to your gage! THEN find a fitting, or several fittings, to connect all of these together! The easiest, quickest, and probably cheapest is to connect to the original oil oil sentry point. Do some checking and lemme know what you have. Bob
I think I'll go with the remote oil filter lines. They are flared lines (37 JIC), and that is prettty much my only roadblock.
 

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OK, NOT really a roadblock! Are they now connected to the filter? If so, disconnect hose and remove JIC fitting from filter housing. If not connected, you'll still need to identify threads in filter. A nipple into the filter housing, then a T, then a JIC that fits T & hose. Once you get gauge, you'll need fitting that matches tubing to gauge and fits T...with bushing or whatever. This is all low pressure, so box store water/iron fittings will work...no need for hydraulic type fittings.

Keep going, we'll get it! Bob
 

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One thing you must be ABSOLUTELY SURE of is the filter connections. If ANY doubt in your mind, disconnect hose from "Inlet" side of filer and crank engine. You should get oil from hose. If oil comes out of filter when cranking, it's hooked up backwards! Bob
 

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I'd go with a direct reading gage, no sending unit. One less thing to fail. Bob
Well, sort of. The tubing can still fail on a mechanical setup so if OP goes this route he'd be wise to use metal tubing and check it often for signs of abrasion or leakage. DON'T use craptastic plastic tubing, it melts and kinks and breaks and is just a hassle. Ask me how I know that :)
 

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Dixie, I agree, 110%! Back to old school when we had gauges (amps, oil, temp) mounted on or under dash with a tach on the steering column mounted with a radiator clamp! Dump the clutch at 6 grand, engine torques and eventually hardens and breaks or burns the tubing...especially after left motor mount lets go!

One thing is his favor is I believe (??) the filter is on the firewall...no vibration & nearly no heat... and he's mounting to the filter so plastic line should be OK. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yep. Remote oil filter is getting mounted on the firewall just above or next to the air cleaner. I can run a short piece of hose along the dash (neutral lock for pedal is gone, so that's no issue) and to the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Did I miss where the engine was installed and running?
What happens when you get it running and it has 5 PSI oil pressure, enough to damage the engine but not enough to trigger the oil sentry?
 

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I've added oil pressure gauges to several tractors and there is a kit with the copper tubing that has all the known engine fittings in it. Metric and SAE. It's about $10. I have mounted the gauges on the instrument panel where it should be. If you put one in and then hide it and depend on a light then you have defeated the whole purpose of the gauge. On the 318 I removed the hour meter and put the oil pressure there. No one needs to know every minute, how many hours you have on your tractor but seeing the oil pressure is very important. One of the issues you will notice is that on a hot day how low the pressure will drop to when the oil gets hot. That's when you dump the 10-W 30 and go to straight 30W or 40W weight oil in the summer.
 

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I installed a Sunpro oil gauge on my Vanguard. I bought a braided steel pressure line on ebay screwed right on oil filter adapter plug, it would not match the thread on back of meter, no matter how many fittings and adapters i tried. Just used a very short section of the white nylon line from back of meter to braided steel. I would do electronic next time. If you do the nylon all way to engine it will fail eventually from vibrations.

Rudy, I've read internet folklore about the copper failing too from vibrations. Is it true? I dunno.
 

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The issue people have with the copper lines is that they try to treat them like a rubber hose. Do not cut the tube but coil it into a spring-like piece that is slightly away from the engine but not clamped down. This will absorb the vibrations and the thing will last forever. It is when people try to clamp the copper tube down to the frame with hard clamps that they have vibrations problems. I use electrical ties to snug it to the frame but not to where it is tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The oil lines have a diameter of 1/2" in the grooves of the threads, so would that be 1/4" NPT? I know the gauge size has to be 2".
 

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!/2" in the threads sounds right for a 1/4 NPT. 1/4" pipe has an OD of .540". 3/8" is .675", and 1/8" is .405". Bob
 

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Are your oil lines JIC on one end, as posted in your post #19, and male 1/4 NPT on other end, or 1/4 NPT both ends or ???? Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Are your oil lines JIC on one end, as posted in your post #19, and male 1/4 NPT on other end, or 1/4 NPT both ends or ???? Bob
The line for the input is not a JIC, the line out of the oil filter is.
 

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Just chiming in a few comments:

I put a pressure gauge on my 317 when I replaced my Kohler Series I engine for a Series II. Like it was already mentioned, I replaced the hour meter with the oil pressure gauge so it would live in plain view. I only run 30Wt oil (doesn't get any winter use), so I always see good pressure.

The only time the gauge has ever served a purpose was when the plastic tubing going to the gauge rubbed through and broke. I noticed the gauge pressure drop and then noticed a puddle of oil flowing onto my mower deck as I turned it off. I re-ran the plastic tubing inside a length of rubber fuel line, but I like the suggestion about the metal tubing. I'll look at that in the spring - although I also debate whether the gauge is worth having.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Just chiming in a few comments:

I put a pressure gauge on my 317 when I replaced my Kohler Series I engine for a Series II. Like it was already mentioned, I replaced the hour meter with the oil pressure gauge so it would live in plain view. I only run 30Wt oil (doesn't get any winter use), so I always see good pressure.

The only time the gauge has ever served a purpose was when the plastic tubing going to the gauge rubbed through and broke. I noticed the gauge pressure drop and then noticed a puddle of oil flowing onto my mower deck as I turned it off. I re-ran the plastic tubing inside a length of rubber fuel line, but I like the suggestion about the metal tubing. I'll look at that in the spring - although I also debate whether the gauge is worth having.
Magnums and KT17s like to just lose oil pressure. It can also help out if the relief fails, because with stripped pump gear splines you'll still get some pressure, but nowhere near enough. Also, if the relief fails open, the guage will show a drop, but the oil sentry will keep the engine running.
 

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I downloaded and opened the M18 service manual showing the remote oil filter. I'm thinking oil comes out of the filter and into the engine from the center port "B". This is where you want to install your gauge. I'm going to assume the hex nipple is 1/4 NPT, both ends, and the reducing connector is 1/4" NPT one and "something else" on the other end.

For port "A" : Connect the hose with the red tracer as shown.

For port "B" : Install a 1/4 NPT hex nipple in port "B". The reason for a hex nipple rather than a normal round nipple is so you can put a wrench on it an not over tighten (and possibly split the filter housing!) when you connect your other fittings. Install a 1/4 NPT female tee onto the nipple and the supplied "reducing connector" into one leg of the tee. You can connect your other hose (white trace) but that's it until you get your gauge and see what fittings you need for that.

One last note: tape ALL openings to prevent debris from getting in! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I'm looking at a Tee that has one male, 2 female ends. 1/8" NPT, think that'd work? McMaster Carr 51205K126.
 

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That'll work assuming your threads are 1/8" NPT. Be 100% sure of thread sizes before buying anything! Also, really no need for stainless steel. Here's the same in plated steel (for a LOT less $$$): McMaster # 50925K196. Bob
 
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