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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

This is my project:




It's my dad's old garden tractor. He bought a new husqvarna a few years back so the old deere has just been sitting out in the elements. I'm hoping to bring it back to life and I'm going to need a lot of help. I'm not mechanically inclined so brace yourself for some pretty foolish questions along the way.

I'm eager to learn.

I gave it a jump start and it started right up but the second I removed the cables it would die. I pulled the battery out and I'm going to get it tested tomorrow.

I guess the first is to change the oil and drain the old fuel out of the carb?
 

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The Magnificent
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Welcome to the forum!

Getting the battery charged and load tested is a very good idea.

You are also on the right track with a complete fluid and filter change (to include the old gas in the tank). New freshly gapped plugs would be a good idea.

If it has been out in the weather, inspect all of your wiring thoroughly - mice love to nest in tractors.

Finally, pull the belly screen and clean under it, greasing the driveshaft. While you have the grease gun out, a thorough front end greasing is in order.

A can of Sea Foam would be a great idea as well. A couple of ounces in the new oil, about 6 in the gas tank with the fresh fuel, and dribble some down the carb after it has warmed up. Drip at first, then pour enough to almost choke the engine out and switch the key off. Let if sit for 15 minutes and fire her up. She'll smoke heavily for several minutes, then settle out.

Please post your serial number so everyone will know exactly what you have (series 1 versus series 2 engine). That way anyone can better answer your questions.

Service manuals are around $45 on CD from JD. Well worth the money if you don't have one already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
D-Dogg,

Thanks for the advice. The good news is I think I understood everything you said!

My dad thinks he may still have the original manual, I'm going to give him a few days to find and if he can't, I go ahead and get that CD.

I found a foil label beneath the spark plugs that had the following numbers debossed into the foil:

Spec: 24167
Model Number: KT1708

So is that series 1 then? I've reading some bad stuff about the series 1 :(, I was hoping for a series 2!
 

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The Magnificent
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Yep, you have a Series 1, but that's no reason to take a sledgehammer to it.

Being fastidious with your maintenance, starting, stopping then engine properly, not overloading or lugging the engine can get you quite a bit of life from it. There are several repower options when the day comes.

Another thing to watch for (as I have read) is the driveshaft. Should be swapped out around 1000 hours as the u-joints wear and it gets out of balance, trashing the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it can't be too bad of an engine if it fired up after sitting there for 3 years!

At any rate, might as well continue cranking with it until the time comes. I got it out of the weeds so we could get a better look at her. I need to get her home so that I can start with all the fluid replacements. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to get it into neutral so that I can push it up on a trailer and get it back to my garage?

 

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The Magnificent
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I think it's either the knob under the seat, or a lever under the right side fender to disengage the hydro.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What? You think there is a problem with the seat on there now? :) Looks like there might be a pin hole in the back of that seat. I think I'd rather spring a new one, thanks for sending it along though.
 

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What? You think there is a problem with the seat on there now? :) Looks like there might be a pin hole in the back of that seat. I think I'd rather spring a new one, thanks for sending it along though.
Seat cover at JD dealer is a lot cheaper than a whole seat. And a new seat will be trashed again after another year or two, and they're way more expensive than they need to be, with being a John Deere and all.

Is that a metal hood on there? How can that be intact? The new ones are made of biodegradable plastic designed to decompose after a few years in the sun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The hood seems to be fiberglass actually. Metal would have been cool. Maybe I can just upholster up a cool custom seat myself, that way it would match my perfectly formed buttocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
fantastic! thanks for the link. I think I'll go "The Smart Farmer" route when the time comes. Right now the seat is the least of my problem...must focus!
 

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Well, it can't be too bad of an engine if it fired up after sitting there for 3 years!
Does anyone know if there is an easy way to get it into neutral so that I can push it up on a trailer and get it back to my garage?
To get your 317 to move while not running turn the round knob below the seat there until it stops. I dont remember which way it goes but one way or the other will open the valves and allow you to push the tractor. Do NOT push or tow it with out first doing the above or damage can occur easily.

If I were you I would go ahead and remove the fender pan as you can have it off in about 10 minutes. You will need to do so at some time if you plan on cleaning the fuel tank completely. You might also want ot change the fuel line while your at it as they tend to get clogged up from setting sometimes, also clean or replace the fuel cut off valve under the tank as there is a fine filter on it that usually gets clogged.
This will also allow you access to the drive shaft, control linkages, brake linkages and lots of areas that may need attention after setting for a few years.
I am doing the same basic think on a 317 that I have here now. I don't want to hijack your thread so I will start a new one on my 317 and you might find some things in it that may help you along with yours.
It will turn out to be a great tractor that you will enjoy for a long time or at least a few months until you decide you need another one. Believe me it happens
:greendr: :greendr: :greendr:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all of the additional information on the fuel line, valve and so forth. Give me a heads up when you start your thread I'd love to follow along. As I stated earlier I'm not a mechanic by any means and things that my seem obvious to everyone else will be like rocket science for me :) I'll find out about the battery tomorrow.
 

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Original seat lasted 2 years, stored in barn.

Seat cover lasted 5+, out in the weather.

Fancy that?

Here's what the cover looks like after a few years in the weather. I can attest that it's well made for durability to withstand the elements. Can't say same for OEM seat.

Cover has pockets on the back to, one zippered, comes in handy.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ah very cool. Pockets would come in handy for sure. I'm hoping to be able to keep mine in the garage but the seat cover still would be a good idea.

UPDATE! Just heard from Les Schwab, they tested the battery and it is no good (no big surprise) so now we will drop a new battery in there and see if the Alternator/Stator are still good (after replacing all the fluids that is)
 

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Ah very cool. Pockets would come in handy for sure. I'm hoping to be able to keep mine in the garage but the seat cover still would be a good idea.

UPDATE! Just heard from Les Schwab, they tested the battery and it is no good (no big surprise) so now we will drop a new battery in there and see if the Alternator/Stator are still good (after replacing all the fluids that is)
What's a battery cost? Mine's going to need one sooner or later. I'm suprised mine hasn't had to be replaced yet. Kudos to the oem battery manufacturer. I think I bought my tractor in 2000, or 2001, so it's amazing I have a good battery still. I'm starting to get the charge light for the first minute or so after I start it up these days though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good news! My dad was able to locate the original owners manual. It looks like it came out of the same containers as did the dead sea scrolls but I'll take it!
 
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