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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone

So I was on the way to sell my 316(I know I know) and on the way the strap on my trailer broke and the mower took a drive across a field at roughly 25-30mph. Upon starting it wouldn't move in any direction. Trying to push it was next to impossible as it was locked up tight. Managed to finally fight it on the trailer and found out that with the rear raised it spins perfect on either side, not at all on the ground. Hydraulics for the deck work fine. Got it tore down a bit now and can verify that the driveshaft is spinning and the fan is also. It won't move raised in the air either for what it's worth. Is this something a mechanically inclined person can knock out repairwise or something best left to the pros? I have found a full dealer manual and it is overwhelming at best. I also located another mower but he wants 300 bucks and that's more than I can stand to lose on this thing when I resale it. Thanks in advance for your help!

Carl Hutchison

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Discussion Starter #3
I most definitely didn't have time to do that. It was an involuntary drive it took off the back lol! Is there something somewhat common that breaks when they are towed/pushed/launched off a trailer like that?

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In the 1970s my boss at JD did that with a 300. It was over $1000 in parts alone and he still paid us the labor to fix it. The whole inside of the hydro was full of small metal particles. Apparently when the wheels force the hydro to move like that did it produces huge amounts of hydraulic pressure way beyond what the hydraulic system was made for. Roger
 

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Well, I'm hoping Tudor will jump in here, he is the hydraulic guru and can probably answer what damage is caused when they are moved without the release being activated.
 

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Rough guess, but have used a few hydra-static pieces over the years, chances are the "motor" that actually drives the tractor is damaged, think hydro-lock like when an engine takes on water. The pressure generated would have no where to go and parts break, hence why hyrdostatic equipment has a release or by pass valve that needs to be opened so the pressure has some where to go as the motor turns. Sadly drain the fluid, remove the filter and cut that open and see whats there.
 

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well that is really stinky and I am sorry for your luck. But I agree something is in pieces in the hydro unit after that. :tango_face_crying:

If you tear it apart I'd love to see the insides and what happened.
 

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I'm with Orcus: Hydro motor is destroyed. I can't say whether is's hydro lock or the fact that the motor was forced to rotate without lubrication. The oil in the motor would be pumped out by the motor turning. Either way, the motor is scrap.

Remove hydro, and dismantle. The hydraulic pump is the unit in line with the driveshaft and will probably be OK. A similar looking unit is attached through gears to your axles. This is the motor and will probably be in many pieces. You can rebuild the motor or replace the entire hydro. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you guys for all the great info! Is there anything to watch for or mark or special process type stuff to do when breaking one of these apart? I would hate to make a repairable part useless by improper disassembly...

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Carl, pictures, LOT's of pictures! Not necessarily to post here...although that would be good!..., but mainly for you when you re-asm. Next is too tag or bag the items you remove...and then identify the bag! This may sit for a week or a year before you find the parts you need and after a year, you're probably going to forget how/where some parts go!

No special processes that I'm aware of when dismantling. On re-asm, make SURE everything is absolutely clean...clean enough to eat of off! Just before asm begins, wash parts...again!... I like BrakeKleen in a spray can. Let cleaner evaporate or blow dry. DO NOT USE RAGS to wipe down prior to final asm. Rags will leave lint on the parts and the clearance in the hydraulics will be clogged by the lint. Once parts are clean & dry, coat with hyd oil and asm. If assembly is going to sit, even for a half day, cover with CLEAN plastic sheeting. Dirt/debris is the greatest enemy of a hydraulic system. Bob
 

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OK, go to WFMFiles.com and scroll down...about half way... and you'll see "Sundstrand (Sauer-Danfoss)". Download and read, it'll give you an idea of what goes on side plus some repair procedures. Bob
 

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Carl, pictures, LOT's of pictures! Not necessarily to post here...although that would be good!..., but mainly for you when you re-asm. Next is too tag or bag the items you remove...and then identify the bag! This may sit for a week or a year before you find the parts you need and after a year, you're probably going to forget how/where some parts go!



No special processes that I'm aware of when dismantling. On re-asm, make SURE everything is absolutely clean...clean enough to eat of off! Just before asm begins, wash parts...again!... I like BrakeKleen in a spray can. Let cleaner evaporate or blow dry. DO NOT USE RAGS to wipe down prior to final asm. Rags will leave lint on the parts and the clearance in the hydraulics will be clogged by the lint. Once parts are clean & dry, coat with hyd oil and asm. If assembly is going to sit, even for a half day, cover with CLEAN plastic sheeting. Dirt/debris is the greatest enemy of a hydraulic system. Bob
I learned after my Jeep j10 project that projects tend to get postponed and when/if you ever get back the 5 gallon bucket full of parts is a nightmare to sort through. I have a box of baggies in my toolbox now and a label maker as well. Pictures are mandatory now. Also have a parts washer, although it probably needs a fresh batch of cleaner. Unfortunately the tear down process will probably have to wait a week or so. Gotta work all weekend then heading out of town to go to my little brothers high school graduation. I am VERY out of my league tearing in to hydraulics (journeyman electrician by trade) but I look forward to the challenge! May end up just going ahead and resto/painting the rest of the tractor and try to get s bit more for it since it's not going anywhere for a while anyways....

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Discussion Starter #13
So to clarify this is the side I am having issues with potentially?


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Thank you guys for all the great info! Is there anything to watch for or mark or special process type stuff to do when breaking one of these apart? I would hate to make a repairable part useless by improper disassembly...

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Too bad you are so far away. I have a 314 with a good drive unit on it that I think my kid killed the engine on this week that I would sell you cheap.
 

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Carl, The lower item 4 on shaft 12. I'm thanking that may look just as shown in the diagram "exploded" !! The upper item 4 on shaft 8 is your pump and, other than possibly some debris in it, it should be fine.

He-he, I don't get as fancy as as label maker. A piece of masking tape and a marker work for me! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Too bad you are so far away. I have a 314 with a good drive unit on it that I think my kid killed the engine on this week that I would sell you cheap.
How far is too far? I'm in Joplin Missouri.

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Here's a pic I found of another JD that flew off of a trailer, so this is what you can expect to see when you open it up!
Holy crap!!! Can parts even be bought for these things anymore?

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Carl, I've never had to replace anything in the hydro on my 3 tractors...other than check valves, filter, and oil... so I don't know if parts are available or not. There should be a data plate on your hydro with model no. Search on-line is about all I can suggest. IF they are still available from JD, gonna be $$$$$$ !! Bob
 

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The failure would be in #4 as that is where the pressure from the fluid is applied to move the differential. There are very tight tolerances. drain the fluid out and see what come with it. On the left side of my 316 there some kind of plate behind the tire on the front section, you may possibly be able to remove it and inspect the insides with out tearing it all apart.
 
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