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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I have a 301 with power steering that has about 1/3 to 1/2 turn slop in the wheel before there is any movment in the drag link and the steer shaft will push up about 1/4 " when ya turn the wheel.. Any sugestions.. easyfix or not. Thanx for any help : Rod
 

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Remove the rear large plug on the LH(drivers) side of the clutch housing. Look inside and see if the bolt is tight that attaches steering arm to PS valve. Also check the bushings/brgs on the bellcrank that tie rods attach to under the center of frt axle. A little up/down movement in steering wheel is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanx for the reply : I checked the bellcrank . every thing is tight. I know there is a bit of sloop inthe tie rod ends and frnt . that is acceptable . But with the side cover off I can turn the wheel a good 1/3 before there is any movment at the bellcrank . That isnt acceptable "a real pain going a road "
 

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Hi all I have a 301 with power steering that has about 1/3 to 1/2 turn slop in the wheel before there is any movment in the drag link and the steer shaft will push up about 1/4 " when ya turn the wheel.. Any sugestions.. easyfix or not. Thanx for any help : Rod
Maybe you checked already, but the big pitman arm is the #1 failure area on 300 series Dubuque tractors. The spines wear and the steering shaft wobbles inside of it. It's hard to see and you have to check close. I had to put new ones on my 300, 1020, and 300B. You can buy aftermarket at half the price of Deere.

The other failure area - depending on your serial # is the big o-rings that fit around your two steering valve cartridges.

$146 at: http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=JD&&md=1020&cat=Steering&r=mcats

Just make sure your machine has the arm with four splines. Deere upgraded later to fine spline setup.

Steering Shaft Arm - 4 teeth, .641" hole dia. For Models: (1020, 1520, 1530, 2020 manual or power steering), (1030, 1120, 1130, 1630, 2120 european manual or power steering), (1040, 1140 european 2WD w\ clutch housing #AL33368), (1350, 1550, 1750, 1850 european w\ collar shift trans), (2030 power steering). (Part No: T28272)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The problem is in the steering sector valve you can move the shaft a good 1/4 in back and forth its like there is something missing has any one had these appart and that movment is causing the sector shaft to push up 1/4 in when you turn the wheel so you have to turn the wheel 1/3 tunr before there is any movement to the drag link
 

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The problem is in the steering sector valve you can move the shaft a good 1/4 in back and forth its like there is something missing has any one had these appart and that movment is causing the sector shaft to push up 1/4 in when you turn the wheel so you have to turn the wheel 1/3 tunr before there is any movement to the drag link
I've had many part. There's lots of slop when the parts lay on the bench.
I suspect you might have a bad cartridge. There is one for right turns and one for left turns. Non servicable and new ones cost a fortune. Deere #AR81610. That's what you have there in the picture. Basically those two cartridges assembled on the shaft. Usually the problem is a blown o-ring in the housing that that assembly drops into. The older o-rings were soft black rubber and often blew. The replacements are a much harder neoprene. There is not much else in there except shims and washers. The shims should be correct unless someone removed them.

Back when I was a Deere mechanic those cartridges were $150 new. Now much higher. Probably $500 each now from Deere and $200 for used.
 

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The problem is in the steering sector valve you can move the shaft a good 1/4 in back and forth its like there is something missing has any one had these appart and that movment is causing the sector shaft to push up 1/4 in when you turn the wheel so you have to turn the wheel 1/3 tunr before there is any movement to the drag link
From the Deere tech manual in case you don't have it:











 

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There were a couple of variations in the valve over the years. Some did not use the coil spring. Yours is probably this design. Was nut #9 tight when you disassembled the valve? That should be torqued to 50 ft-lbs before tightening jam nut #6. I would replace the six orings in the housing and reassemble before replacing the valves. There are some shims between the two valve bodies that can adjust the play in steering, but you have to be sure of not removing too many shims. Removing too many will make valves stay open and overheat oil.
 

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In the words of Tx Jim, those six o-rings are ornery to change. I just went through that with my 2155 and after spending an hour and a half on the first o-ring I decided it was time to engineer me an "O-Ring-O-Matic". Took less than thirty minutes to install the rest and that included two trips up to the house for coffee. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I recieved the 90 durom orings needed for the steer sector and assembled the unit . The old rings were very worn to the point of flat on both sides. I waiting for other parts so I can run the tractor . will post if worked or not
 
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