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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 3000 series cub, not sure which model but it has the 22 or 23 hp. kohler motor on it. i can not get it to turn over with the key, motor is not locked up, have power at the key till i turn it all the way for start position then nothing happens. seat saftey switch is jumped out, brake pedal switch is made, whats the other swich up under the tractor about mid-way for? I see the seat swich and the brake switch but dont know what the 3 rd switch is for. What all can i check for ?
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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The third switch is the reverse switch and is not interlocked into starting. Are you sure the PTO switch is also off.
 

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I realize it's kind of stating the obvious. But the battery voltage is good, right? And the connections from the battery to the frame and starter are tight, and clean? As ejl6658 said, make sure the blades are switched off, since that would likely prevent the starter from running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK fellows, this is all new to me so any help you can give me will help! Took a few pic's and it looks like i have some piece's missing, would this keep the starter from not turning the tractor over? Also what are these pieces called and where do all the wires go to that look like someone cut? What is that electrical block picture called, it has NO and NC circut stamped on it. I bought this whole tractor for $300.00 with a good mower deck and a snowblade with it, now if only i can get it runnning!! Need help fellows!
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Ouch. Maybe those wires ran to the hood for lights something like that, and the P.O. sold the hood and just cut the wires instead of unplugging it properly?
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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If the engine is a 23 hp the tractor could be a model 3235. You will need a multimeter and the attached wiring diagram in order to figure out where the cut wires go. Looks to me like the cut wires are for the headlights and the vacuum switch for the pto actuator which are not needed to start. NO means normally open switch, NC means normally closed switch. You need to have the pto switch off, seat switch closed, and the brake on closing the brake switch to start and get 12 volts to the blue wire on the starter solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes it is 23 hp, you say it could be a 3235 model. Is there any way i can verify that? Also thank you for the wiring tip and explaining the other. I have to go to the grandkids ballgame tonight so i probalby wont be able to check it out till tommorow
 

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Yes it is 23 hp, you say it could be a 3235 model. Is there any way i can verify that? Also thank you for the wiring tip and explaining the other. I have to go to the grandkids ballgame tonight so i probalby wont be able to check it out till tommorow
If it is for sure a 23hp it is most likely a 3235. Here are the Cub models. Look at the 3000s not the GT3000s. The GT3000s had black frames. If your rear differential is aluminum (has a rear end cover) it is an early 3235. If it has cast iron(2 halves joined in the middle) it is likely late 2001 or later.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I monkey'ed with it real quick before i head to the ballgame, got it to turn over, seems the brake switch and ignition switch was holding me back, turns over but no start, pulled sparkplugs out and seems to not be getting spark, would i have to ground the plugs while turning engine over to check spark? Also had some water run out from ? It was dripping down from the engine shroud, dont have time to check for that right now. Do these mowers have a electric fuel pump? Also what would keep me from getting spark? Well got to go to ballgame now
 

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Yes, you need to ground the spark plug body when checking for spark. I lay the threads portion against the engine block or bare clean metal on the engine, when testing spark. Check this way, before concluding that you don't have spark.

Steve or others will have to weigh in on the fuel pump. My Cub (later model, with a Kohler Command) uses a crankcase-vacuum-operated fuel pump, not electric. Tracing back the fuel line that goes to your carb may help answer this definitively.
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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I monkey'ed with it real quick before i head to the ballgame, got it to turn over, seems the brake switch and ignition switch was holding me back, turns over but no start, pulled sparkplugs out and seems to not be getting spark, would i have to ground the plugs while turning engine over to check spark? Also had some water run out from ? It was dripping down from the engine shroud, dont have time to check for that right now. Do these mowers have a electric fuel pump? Also what would keep me from getting spark? Well got to go to ballgame now
The fuel pump is a mechanical pump located on the left valve cover unless someone did a modification. Water dripping out of the engine shroud isn't good as that is where your ignition coils are located. May be time to pull the engine mounting bolts so you can get the flywheel shroud off and have a look for debris or a mouse house causing you your ignition problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well played with it a little today, she has spark and will somewhat run on a shot of either, runs rough for about 30 seconds then dies, i have fuel going up to the carberator but for some reason its not taking it, may have a blown headgasket on one side cause she spits out somewhere on the engine, would that keep it from running ? Also when i first started to crank it over the other day a bunch of water run out from ? Could water have gotting into cyl. head with a bad head gasket? Little by little i am learning this beast!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK fellows, got her running somewhat, took a valve pan cover off and noticed a rocker arm was off the pushrod for the valve. I put it back on and tightened her up, hit the key and she fired up with no starting fluid!I still have other issues tho, i had to shut her down by putting a rag over the carb, key switch would not shut her down, also my carb linkage seems like its on backwards, the throttle cable seems to be controling the choke and the choke cable controling the throttle, i will take a picture of this later and post. Also after i ran it for a few minutes i checked the motor oil ( i checked it also before i tried to start it and it looked like new oil ) it looked kinda of milky looking after i run it. Could water have gotten down into the crankcase somehow? Could just be moisture? Any way i am going to change the oil and filter tommorow, speaking of oil filter those little things are quite expensive just for a mower?
 

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Man, there is some weird stuff going on with this engine :)

A really-blown head gasket could cause spitting near the head, I suppose. But is it possible this is residual water getting sprayed around, since you mentioned water coming from somewhere? There shouldn't really be liquid available to spit, even with a really-bad head gasket. A blown head gasket on one side should let it run on just the other cylinder.

I guess it's possible that water could have gotten into the engine due to a really-blown head gasket, but that would require that water be able to pool in the exact open spot in the gasket. Which feels somewhat unlikely to me, I guess.

Glad you fixed the valve issue! Hopefully the ignition switch is an easy fix. Be careful to not allow the engine to over-rev (and possibly blow a connecting rod), if the throttle and choke may be hooked up backwards somehow.

Milky oil is often a result of water contamination, as I understand it. I would let it run for a few minutes to mix up the oil, and warm it, before changing the oil. You want to flush out as much of what's down there as possible, given what you're finding with water, etc. Running it for a few minutes will get any junk that sunk to the bottom to be suspended in the oil again, helping you drain it out.

I bought the Kohler filter for my new-to-me tractor (with a Command) last year, but you can apparently use certain automotive filters. @Steve Urquell said he uses Toyota 90915-YZZD1 filters, which are the same as in his truck, I think. I'm sure there are other options too. But that makes an assumption that yours uses the same filter.

Looks like these are cross-reference filters for that Toyota number:
Oil filter cross reference
And one example of an option cheaper than the ~$10 Kohler ones:
https://www.amazon.com/PH3614-Extra-Guard-Spin-Filter/dp/B0009H52AM
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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OK fellows, got her running somewhat, took a valve pan cover off and noticed a rocker arm was off the pushrod for the valve. I put it back on and tightened her up, hit the key and she fired up with no starting fluid!I still have other issues tho, i had to shut her down by putting a rag over the carb, key switch would not shut her down, also my carb linkage seems like its on backwards, the throttle cable seems to be controling the choke and the choke cable controling the throttle, i will take a picture of this later and post. Also after i ran it for a few minutes i checked the motor oil ( i checked it also before i tried to start it and it looked like new oil ) it looked kinda of milky looking after i run it. Could water have gotten down into the crankcase somehow? Could just be moisture? Any way i am going to change the oil and filter tommorow, speaking of oil filter those little things are quite expensive just for a mower?
If the tractor was sitting outside without the air filter cap installed water could have gotten in thru the intake. The key switch should ground out the white wire on the coils and kill the spark. When you say "she spits out" do you mean water or compressed air? If air, you could have a blown head gasket and it would still run depending on how bad the leak is. I agree that milky oil is a sign of water in the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I believe it spit out exhaust gasses from that valve not working, i think i fixed that when i put the rocker arm back unto the push rod. I think i have trouble with the carb. linkage, would u be able to pull me up a diagram of the throttle and choke linkage for that motor, a picture of that setup wpould be nice. I'am going to take some pictures of what i have then post em
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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I believe it spit out exhaust gasses from that valve not working, i think i fixed that when i put the rocker arm back unto the push rod. I think i have trouble with the carb. linkage, would u be able to pull me up a diagram of the throttle and choke linkage for that motor, a picture of that setup wpould be nice. I'am going to take some pictures of what i have then post em
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank You for the attachment, thats making my head spin :) Here are a few pic's and maybe u can tellme something from these. That last pic of her sure is ugly!!!! 😁
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Ejl in Pa.
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With just a quick look your linkages are all screwed up. Ill take some pics of the correct connections for you tomorrow.
 
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