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Discussion Starter #42
The sheet of UHMW came in Saturday, I'll do some layout work and get some pictures. I think this is going to work really well. I'm planning on using large head aluminum pop rivets (old Polaris and Arctic Cat track style) with maybe 2 under the sweep area. I will countersink them, but being aluminum even if UHWM wears down to them they won't groove the yoke.

Bill
 

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The sheet of UHMW came in Saturday, I'll do some layout work and get some pictures. I think this is going to work really well. I'm planning on using large head aluminum pop rivets (old Polaris and Arctic Cat track style) with maybe 2 under the sweep area. I will countersink them, but being aluminum even if UHWM wears down to them they won't groove the yoke.

Bill
Bill if you want to use the tightest, toughest alum pop rivets, buy Avdels. They have a steel shank crimped into the end of them and pull the end up towards the hole instead of just pulling the ball into the body. The back side ends up being a ball of aluminum ~1/8" long and 1/4" in diameter. Available at any trailer shop near you or maybe at a Fastenall.

Below you can see the difference in a regular pop rivet and a big head Avdel. I'd send you some but I only have a couple.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Here is one side done. Tolerances are so close I just used self-etching primer and a thin coat of black under the UHMW material. The other side ended up needing a slightly thicker piece, so am waiting for a 10mm thick sheet. Everything is snug but movable, I think it will work really well for what I want a front hitch to do.

Bill
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Here is one side done. Tolerances are so close I just used self-etching primer and a thin coat of black under the UHMW material. The other side ended up needing a slightly thicker piece, so am waiting for a 10mm thick sheet. Everything is snug but movable, I think it will work really well for what I want a front hitch to do.

Bill
View attachment 2445230 View attachment 2445231 View attachment 2445232
Looks like a nice upgrade to the hitch. Should last a long time like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I have been working on it, but it has been stinking cold around here. It's been hard to get anything done outside or in the shop. Did a little machining the other day, and 1000# of steel stays cold for a long time. I got the new UHMW material in place for the angling of the hitch and just brush painted the yoke and lift assembly. It was 40 degrees today and I did get the yoke and lift assembly put together, with an interesting lesson in hydraulic lock. As I put the pivot bushings and the new pivot shaft into place I packed everything in grease. As I put the top bushing into place it fit snugly but I knew everything fit well. But it would only go down about a half an inch, I grabbed a punch and a small hammer and it would not budge, but I could turn it. After a little thought I took out the new grease zerk I had installed and as I pushed the bushing into place out squirted the grease that was holding the bushing from seating. Ain't education wonderful. The paint that I had mixed for the Cub is acrylic enamel that I thinned with Dupont Base Maker so currently the finish is flat but will be clearcoated later.

Bill

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I think your bushing and "stab plate" modifications look very good and will be significant upgrades over OEM.

I noticed that you installed the pivot bolt with the threads/nut up. When I tried that, I discovered that the OEM bolt hit the Gear Box(chain case) on the snowblower when I tried to mount it, so I had to reinstall the bolt with the threads down to install the snowblower.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I do remember reading that in one of your posts, and thought about it as I put this together. I will never use a snowblower on this tractor so it is not an issue. I will use this for a front mount de-thatcher and didn't want that big bolt leaving a groove in the lawn.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Hey guys, it has finally warmed up enough that I can get some things done outside. But with the stay at home order here in Wisconsin, my wife is home too. So the honey-do list grows exponentially. (Nuf said) I did manage to get the front hitch frame installed yesterday and fixed a pet peeve of mine with front hitches. Almost all front hitches on 3000 series have an exhaust burn/discoloration mark after they have been used for 10 minutes, and I don't like that. So being old and retired, with time to do something about it, I did. Many of the exhaust pipes seem to get bent or are just poorly speced during manufacture, so I heated the exhaust tube and twisted the outlet forward so it was totally clear of the hitch frame, I massaged the end round again and found some chrome tube that was close to the size of the exhaust. With a little body hammer shaping, I now have a chrome exhaust tip that completely clears the hitch frame.

The final connection of the hydraulics will be coming, but when I take the sheet metal off the Cub for that, it will get all body work and paint done also.

Bill
2451536
 

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Hey guys, it has finally warmed up enough that I can get some things done outside. But with the stay at home order here in Wisconsin, my wife is home too. So the honey-do list grows exponentially. (Nuf said) I did manage to get the front hitch frame installed yesterday and fixed a pet peeve of mine with front hitches. Almost all front hitches on 3000 series have an exhaust burn/discoloration mark after they have been used for 10 minutes, and I don't like that. So being old and retired, with time to do something about it, I did. Many of the exhaust pipes seem to get bent or are just poorly speced during manufacture, so I heated the exhaust tube and twisted the outlet forward so it was totally clear of the hitch frame, I massaged the end round again and found some chrome tube that was close to the size of the exhaust. With a little body hammer shaping, I now have a chrome exhaust tip that completely clears the hitch frame.

The final connection of the hydraulics will be coming, but when I take the sheet metal off the Cub for that, it will get all body work and paint done also.

Bill View attachment 2451536
I wondered about that. My exhaust was completely behind the hitch when I mounted it. I thought that couldn't possibly be right. When I built my loader hitch I hole-sawed a hole in it for the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I drilled through the top and bottom of the hitch and ran two 1/2" bolts through both top and bottom. I did this as a preventative move after the other hitch my brother was using with the power broom tore the top loose. I mounted the yoke and lift assembly on the tractor and made a strut to hold it up until I get the hydraulics for the front working.

Bill
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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
To stiffen up the hitch mount further, I drilled 3/8" holes through the stub shafts that bolt on the side of the frame mount to hold the lift assembly in place. Then I ran a piece of 3/8" redi-rod through and pulled the sides in about 5/16" of an inch.

Bill
 

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Have you considered putting bolts back closer to the pivot point? I don't have a hitch if front of me right now, but from your photos it almost looks like there are holes there just waiting to be used.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
I did look at those, but there is no real strength gained by putting bolts back there. The hydraulic cylinder lifts from much farther forward, so that's where I put the reinforcement.

Bill
 

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Bill, what are your plans for the hitch?
 

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I plan on building a thatcher, a sod cutter/edger for making a paving stone pathway around the house. I will remodel a set of forks for moving things around the yard.

Bill
I use my forks and a pallet all the time. Easier to haul long brush than chop it down to go in a cart.
 
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