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Discussion Starter #1
I got a deal on an older tiller that I was able to retrofit to my GT225 by buying the appropriate lift linkage kit. It’s my first tiller so I wasn’t sure what to compare it to, but I think the tines are worn out or not installed appropriately. It leaves a 3-4” stripe of intact sod between each cluster, and there is at least that wide of a gap between the tine tips. I’ve found the manual for it and they appear to be installed correctly, but I’d hate to spend more on new tunes then I spent on the tiller to find out that the new ones are the same length. I’ve attached a picture for reference.
2458103
 

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It would be helpful to know the brand and model of tiller you have thar Brother. 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry, I figured it was clear from the mower it’s mounted on and the John Deere forum, but I’ve only heard it called the 30” mechanical tiller. I think the design has been around since the late 80s, goes on most of the mid sized garden tractors since then, up to the x500 series
 

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No tiller should leave untilled areas in the path. Even hard to tell with a good picture but looks to me like tines maybe aren't correct or are very worn down.
 

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Them as some worn tines for sure! Get new ones or just take 1/2 paths and cover the missing ground.
 

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Them as some worn tines for sure! Get new ones or just take 1/2 paths and cover the missing ground.
Well Keep In Mind theses tillers will not Break UN-tilled sod cleanly On the first Pass it Takes More than one Pass to Break new Ground as well! Used a 30inch tiller for 12 years on my JD 240 In different soil condition across the Eastern United States (y)
 

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Keep in mind when ordering , there are 8 left and 8 right tines........Yours look like they don't really have the hook in them anymore.

Should look more like this:
 

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It's pretty obvious that gap between the tips of the tines is way too large. I would heed Sergeant's advice and just go over it again with a little offset. If you still are unsatisfied get new tines.
 

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Make Smoke, Boil Water!
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First of all, that tiller does look somewhat worn, but you can compensate. I had that exact same tiller for my old 345. and can offer a bit of advice. Make a second pass at 90° to the first. If the tiller still doesn't go deep enough, make a third pass at 45°.

This is from being there, doing that...

One time I helped my longtime best friend put in new pasture grass on his hillside - all busting new ground, old hard stuff. I wasn't thinking and was making my first passes facing the cliff. When the tiller really grabs, it will throw the tractor and you forward at a really scary speed - AND YOU CAN'T STEER!. Even worse if you're looking at going off the edge of a cliff... You tend to hurt your hand when slamming in the PTO button.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First of all, that tiller does look somewhat worn, but you can compensate. I had that exact same tiller for my old 345. and can offer a bit of advice. Make a second pass at 90° to the first. If the tiller still doesn't go deep enough, make a third pass at 45°.

This is from being there, doing that...

One time I helped my longtime best friend put in new pasture grass on his hillside - all busting new ground, old hard stuff. I wasn't thinking and was making my first passes facing the cliff. When the tiller really grabs, it will throw the tractor and you forward at a really scary speed - AND YOU CAN'T STEER!. Even worse if you're looking at going off the edge of a cliff... You tend to hurt your hand when slamming in the PTO button.
Thanks for the tips! Mostly I’m using it on level ground, and a perpendicular second pass is exactly how I’ve been handling it so far. What encouraged me to ask if I’m overworking myself is using it to refurb a shady part of my lawn which is probably around 15-20k sq ft, so a second pass is rather time consuming. Or course when weather cooperates I’ll probably forget all about it.
 

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Make Smoke, Boil Water!
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...is using it to refurb a shady part of my lawn ...
I might suggest you may not have to go awfully deep for grass. There are folks here on MTF who landscape for a living and can give you a better idea for till depth than I can. I was trying to rehab my front and back meadows here on the side of the mountain, and I used something like 3-4". Got me done quicker, but a dozen years later, I gave up on non-native stuff and went to a native/natural environment for the meadows. I got to thinking about how many poisons I was putting on the meadows, just to try to make them look good. All that non-native stuff died quickly away without the support of poisons and now there are wild bees and insects, wild animals, and in the upper meadow we've had hawks nesting from time to time.
 
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