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Discussion Starter #1
I am a new 448 owner this spring. I have a 48" mower deck on it and I have added a 3 poiint hitch and hydraulic PTO to power a tiller in the future. I have a question that I'm sure many of you experienced Ingy owners can answer for me.

What do you do with your 3 point hitch when you are mowing? IE - the 3 point hitch lowers and rises when you lower and raise the mower deck. This is no problem when the mower deck is raised since the 3 point hitch is in the up position. However, it creates a problem when the deck is lowered since the 3 point lowers also and potentially can engage the ground. I can't imagine that people remove the three point every time they mow, so what do you do? Is it OK to secure the 3 point in the raised position when raising and lowering the mower deck? If so, how do you secure it?

Thanks in advance for your recommendations!

Jeff
 

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My 446 does that but it doesn't hurt anything, I mean you not actually dragging it are you?

Wait for more replys as there is a valve you can add in there to correct the issue.
 

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quote by caseguytoo
Go to the Princess site and open up the catalogue to the hydraulics section.

A suitable 3 port selector valve is on page 22 and is stock # 8107211. Bush the port openings down to accept fittings for 1/4" hydraulic hose with ordinary plumbing reducers using a good quality paste type pipe sealant, not teflon tape.

Pick a convenient spot to mount the valve. This valve has one inlet port and two outlet ports. Run hoses from the two outlet ports to the bottom of each hydraulic cylinder. Run a third hose from the port on the lift valve where the bottom hoses USED to Tee into, to the inlet port on the new valve. That's it.

Store the old hoses and Tee fitting away somewhere. Never throw stuff like that out cuz you never know when it might come in handy.
 

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While I prefer the circuit splitter approach, it is $$$ and sometimes complex to finish it, depending on how particular you are about it. A splitter is especially useful if you want to use front mount attachments at the same time as 3 point ... say a single bottom plow and a front plow blade ... a snowcaster and backblade, etc.

I've also used a stroke control kit to just hold the cylinder high, if all you are concerned about it keeping the 3 point lifted while doing more routine work. Example below:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_34190_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

Brian
 

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Does that stroke control kit just not allow the ram to go back into the cylinder? That would be much easier than plumbing for a selector valve although I'm still going to do this someday.

It really is a pain when you mow slightly uneven ground only to look back and realize that you've dragged a couple low hanging pins in the sleeve through your yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone!

Caseman2 - yes, the 3 point drags at the point that you level out on a downhill grade and when backing toward an uphill grade and it does dig up the yard as cabinover says.

David, the selector valve is a good idea but probably more work and money than I want to expend at this time.

Brian, that looks like the answer. Easy to install and remove as needed. I was thinking of fabricating something rigid that would install on the 3 point somewhere to hold it in position but the stroke control kit would be much easier. I like easy.....

Jeff
 

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If you are handy with tools, You can use a second TCV (travel control valve) as both a second independent lift circuit and a "soft" start pto, especially good for motor starting applications. I also use my second lift circuit with quick connects to operate a dump trailer, as well as other things.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casegardentractors/
You will need to sign in, if not a member, and go to "Photo's." You will need to scroll through the albums to find what you want. Mine is on the second from last page.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casegardentractors/photos/album/1031965070/pic/list

This should take you to my album. There are also a couple of pictures here on MTF. PM me for the albums of a couple of others who also use the TCV/PTO set up.
 

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quote by caseguytoo
Jeff,
Adding the selector switch was my first project on my tractor, up until then I hadn't done anything really mechanical in a long long time. I actually can be a bit of $$ but if you take a bit of time (say a day - depending on parts etc) than this can be done easily and turn out much better than mine did.
I don't think Princess Auto would apply to you in Michigan, but I am sure that the catalogue can be used to show you what you need, and you can find it someplace locally.

Go get the switch, and then like CGT told me in my thread - but I ignored due to time constraints - take only the switch home, and sit on the seat, find a place to mount it. Don't do what I did (http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?p=729886#post729886

AFTER you have found the correct spot, mount it (temporary) but this may involve a couple of holes through some metal).
Then measure the length of hose you need from the ports on the switch to the Travel Control Valve under the tractor, (there are two) and to the rear hydraulic. Then go back to your supplier and get the right length hoses. I suggest that this is a good time to change the oil, as its all coming out anyway, so pick up some new oil for the hydraulic system while your at it - (20W50).

Good luck!
 

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The stroke control kit I noted is simply a set of nicely prepared aluminum collars which will prevent the cylinder from retracting. Nice range of thickness so you can set up to your liking. Nice price too.

As noted, I'm in for splitters, but this works quick and easy.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think the aluminum spacer route is best for now and the spltter sounds like a good winter project when I plan to get under the tractor and really neaten up things as well. Right now I am in the process of installing the hydraulic PTO. The one I purchased was off a 446 and the solid tube lines are about two inches too long. I considered lengthening them but opted to purchase adapter fittings and have hoses made instead. That is my next project getting the PTO plumbed. I don't want to get into major projects with it until winter since this tractor is now my main mower and with 2.5 acres to mow I can't be down with it.

I am also thinking of ways to change the gear ratio in the rear end (are the low rear tire versions of this tractor equipped with a different rear end ratio?). When mowing the low gear is not quite as fast as I would like at top end and in high gear it is so touchy that it becomes difficult to set and maintain a stead speed. In fact, in high gear it is so touchy that a slight touch of the drive lever and sometimes the tractor wants to lurch right out from under you. If a rear end gear ratio change is not practical then I think I may try devise some sort of secondary ground travel control valve. In high gear I can really decrease mowing time if I can control it well.

This year being my first year with the Ingy I am learning a lot about it. I really like it so far. I especially like the mowing power it has driving the 48" deck. Even in our extremely heavy, dense, and long grass running through at high speed it does not bog down and makes a really nice cut.

I have purchased a hydrabagger unit that I have not tried yet. I did read somewhere else where someone said they found that theirs did not keep up as well as they had hoped and converted it to belt drive which spun the impeller faster and improved the pick-up performance of it. I'm wondering now if I will also find the hydra unit performance lacking with our thick grass and leaves in the fall too? If so I am wondering how that other person converted to a belt driven system? I may need to hunt him down and ask him.

With my old lawn tractor I had purchased a Billy Goat with an 8 HP engine and converted it to hitch between the tractor and a 4 wheel wagon I towed behind. I fabricated a pickup from the mower deck chute and discharger from the Billy Goat into the wagon upon which I had built a tall screened in cage. It looked like a train going across the lawn but it sure did a good job of picking everything up. It could suck moles out of their holes (almost)! I could go back to the Billy Goat but I was hoping the hydrabagger would work well enough that I could eliminate it.

I had to repair the clutch unit when I first purchased the tractor. Ther person I got the tractor from had taken it apart and not gotten it back together right. I also had to replace belts and spindle bearings in the mower deck. Still, overall I am satisfied with the job my new (used) Ingy is doing and am having fun with it so far.

Jeff
 

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Rear end ratios between the 200 and 400 tractors are the same. If you want your tractor to go faster, then get your hands on a good, used 200 series drive motor and swap it into your trans-axle.

If I were you, I'd make no decisions about the HydraBagger until you get installed on the tractor and use it for awhile.

Next winter, check the linkage from the travel lever to the travel valve vewy, vewy carefully and get every mm of slop out of it by replacing or refurbishing the parts as needed. That's the way you regain finite control over the speed of the tractor and eliminate the jumpyness you currently encounter.
 

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How do you plan to hang the vacuum unit on your 3 point? If you need an idea, I accomplished what I think is an easy and very handy solution. I should have some pictures that I could post or send, if you are interested. All you need is an old mower deck hanger, minus the mule. A little cutting, bending and welding and the vac drops in just like the factory mount with no modification.
 

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I have purchased a hydrabagger unit that I have not tried yet. I did read somewhere else where someone said they found that theirs did not keep up as well as they had hoped and converted it to belt drive which spun the impeller faster and improved the pick-up performance of it. I'm wondering now if I will also find the hydra unit performance lacking with our thick grass and leaves in the fall too? If so I am wondering how that other person converted to a belt driven system? I may need to hunt him down and ask him.
Jeff,

I think you are recalling some of my comments on the hydravac which I started using this spring. I found that my engine was not running at a full 3600 rpm so I was not getting the suction I expected and experienced some clogging of the system in heavy somewhat damp grass. I have since adjusted the engine rpm and that helped a lot.

If you are going to be vacuuming 2.5 acres you will want to direct the clippings into a trailer so you don't have to keep emptying the bags. Here is a photo of my vac setup on my hydraulic dump trailer. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the suggestions. It does make sense that the engine speed would have a bearing on the performance of the hydrabagger. I know from experience with my vacuum that you sure don't want it bogging down while running through thick and damp grass. Unclogging the system of wet grass clippings is a pain!

Yes, I am interested in seeing pictures of the hydrabagger mounts. I do not have any specific plans for mounting it yet but it does sound like something custom built may be in order since I would like not to have to remove the 3 point just to mow and vacuum the lawn.

I did build a cage for my wagon - it's the only way to go on a big yard. The only draw back to it is that the vacuum shoots the green grass clippings into the wagon so hard that they are compacted together and almost impossible to dig out. Also, the clippings are compacted so much that the wagon gets extremely heavy by time it is full and the wagon was sagging to the point of rubbing on the tires. I have reinforced it to help but I do plan a much heavier wagon (perhaps a dumper model) in the future.

For your entertainment I have posted information and pictures of my Billy Goat vacuum at: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?p=731004#post731004 . Ignore the Murray - it is long gone and the Ingy 448 is in its' place. I have to admit the Murray lasted over nine years here mowing 2.5 acres weekly and serving in many hobby farm capacities - far more use and abuse than it was ever intended for! The Murray had an opposed twin Briggs and Stratton rated at 18.5 HP but there is no comparrison between the Briggs and the Onan or the Ingy and the Murray. But then why am I telling you guys - I'm sure you already know....

Jeff
 

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Jnelson; Yes said:
Here are three shots. Note the original nubs on the bottom, to slip into the HV reciever. I had to narrow it to width. Rewelded the cross brace in just below the bends and drilled pin holes at the top. Used a length of 1 inch square tubing and welded pins in each end. Very simple quick solution. I have used it two seasons and wouldn't change it.
 

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Case actually made a 3 pt mounting bracket for the hydravac that has a drawbar hitch to pull a trailer. I don't have a photo handy but it is quite similar to what Rol did but without the heavy arm to support the bags.
 

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Case actually made a 3 pt mounting bracket for the hydravac that has a drawbar hitch to pull a trailer. I don't have a photo handy but it is quite similar to what Rol did but without the heavy arm to support the bags.
This is what the 3 point bracket looks like. The middle support replaces the normal 3 pt top link and holds the unit rigid.

This one is attached to a 6018 and I added the extra part on top so I could raise and lower the unit. It is currently configured as a blower to clear the driveway. Notice the high tech velocity-enhancing 6" to 4" vent pipe adapter. You can blow grass and leaves into the next county. Or, if you are having trouble getting that big, wet pile of brush to ignite, point the blower into the center and within a couple minutes, you can smelt iron.
 

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That's a creative use of the vac unit that I may have to try out myself. I have thought of taking an old push type blower, connecting a hydraulic motor to it and mounting on the front of the tractor to clean the driveway and blow leaves around but this would be a pretty easy approach.

Just for clarification anybody looking at your photo should realize that the unit is not mounted in the "normal" position for use as a leaf vac.
 

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Very creative blower! I use my hose and tie it off, as a blower. I bet the reduction pipe would start a fire!
 

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That's a creative use of the vac unit that I may have to try out myself. I have thought of taking an old push type blower, connecting a hydraulic motor to it and mounting on the front of the tractor to clean the driveway and blow leaves around but this would be a pretty easy approach.
Needs some more R&D. Ten minutes after the photo I clipped a tree and tore up the reducer. 4 bucks sure doesn't buy what it used to.
 
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