2wd vs 4wd

50' elevation change over 75 acres isn't a lot, but what is the steepest individual grade that the tractor would have to climb, and would that be while working or just while traveling to do the work? Another question would be how muddy does it get when it rains. I know that a lot of Texas was going through quite drought recently, so you may need to ask your new neighbors how muddy it gets when it does rain.

If the steepest grade isn't too steep, and if it doesn't get too muddy on your land, then I would go with 2WD and more hp. If the tractor is going to have to do any hard work while going up a steep grade or while the ground is very muddy, then I would go with 4WD, which for the same money would mean less hp.

Worked on a farm for many years with just 2wd tractors. 4020's,4430's,4620's etc. Save yourself money and a lot of unnecessary ruts. Buy more HP in a 2 wd and as Team Green says "stay out of the field when it is muddy." These dealers load their lots with those 4wheel assist tractors and everyone thinks they have to have them just like it all started out with cabs. Cabs are great on a sprayer tractor for protection. Other than that you don't have to have one either. I have worked thousands of acres in an open cab with "comfort covers" and warm coveralls and a hat and gloves. Save that 4wd money and cab money to buy quality equipment.

I agree on the bigger 2wd. If you're pulling hard and the front wheels are on the light side, the 4wd doesn't help much. The 4wd has more things to go wrong. Been there, done that. My 2wd tractor with loaded tires and wheel weights would outpull the 4wd. Guess which one I still have.

I hope you are talking about a tandem disc and not an offset for 50 to 60 hp. Make sure you at least load the tires. It takes the bouncing out which you don't want on a sidehill.

Team_Green said:

Be like most other farmers and stay outta the field.

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That's what i told the salesman when i bought my 2WD 5303, plus, my land is level.

Ronnie

i farm over 450 acres of steep kentucky grades and have never needed anything but a 2wd,

if i cant get there with a two wheel drive i do not need to be there anyway, besides most problems with fwa tractors, have been the fwa, so that is a system that i do not have to maintain.

i would stay away from the compact utilities because a large roll of hay at 1000-1200 lbs need a good heavy front end on it,

anything in the 40 [email protected] range, will pull a 8' cutter,

to save money,look for used equipment, let someone else pay to scratch the new paint
just some thoughts

I did the 2wd thing for 10 years, could never back up going up any grade with weight on the loader.

I was offered this for $1000 more than I got for my 2wd and never regretted it.

I guess it will depend on what you find the day the check book comes out!!

Kbeitz said:

The only time you wish you had 4 wheel drive is the days you get stuck...
Thats only about 3% of tractor time... Do you want to spend a few more $1000 for 3 % of your time?

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Where I would get stuck it would cost $2000 to get out, so yes!! :drunkie:

Plus, I am too old to deal with getting stuck!! :crybaby:

But, that's why we each get to make choices!! :trink39:

We've had this land since 1988. There were many alkali spots. When I had access to big equipment from the farm I worked at, I filled them in. One I couldn't. It went with the back 40 acres when we sold them. I can't remember ever getting stuck with any of my tractors. I've learned where I can go and when.

I had a Kubota L245DT 4wd for a few years and used it very little. I didn't add any weights or load the tires. It wouldn't pull as much as my 2wd Leyland with 150# weights on the rear and loaded tires. The Leyland is also an older heavyweight tractor, not like the newer high hp without much weight.

One time I needed to drive up and down my vineyard rows to drain water so the cultivated ground would dry out. Since I don't have wheel weights or loaded tires I took the weights off the front and hung them on the stinger I happened to have on the back. I didn't have any problems for two reasons. I had most of the tractor weight on the rear wheels and was driving in water which keeps the cleats clean.

I cringe whenever I see any tractor with a fel that doesn't have rear wheel weights and probably tires that aren't loaded. Also loaded tires don't rock and roll since liquid doesn't compress like air and doesn't rebound.

RDR said:

I agree on the bigger 2wd. If you're pulling hard and the front wheels are on the light side, the 4wd doesn't help much. The 4wd has more things to go wrong. Been there, done that. My 2wd tractor with loaded tires and wheel weights would outpull the 4wd. Guess which one I still have.

I hope you are talking about a tandem disc and not an offset for 50 to 60 hp. Make sure you at least load the tires. It takes the bouncing out which you don't want on a sidehill.

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Never Tried to pull a disc with anything less than a 4020 JD. YOU DEFINITELY NEED WHEEL WEIGHTS AND DUALS TO SERIOUSLY PULL A DISC.. darn caps! sorry. Working the ground with a disc is a lot different than mowing etc.