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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I just picked up a cherry GT2550 and I am having slight traction issues on a hill while angling up it. Also, i feel the rear looks strange and needs a wider tire. Both for asthetics and functionality.
They are the stock 23x9.5's. Anyone know what I can stick back there and still use the stock wheels? I was almost thinking some ag tires, but not sure if a wider tire will fit the wheels....
 

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You are one of many that have found turf tyres inadequate for the application.
Tyres for lawn & garden tractors are sized like this:
The first number is the height in inches of the tyre.
The second number is the width in inches of the tyre.
The third number is the size in inches of the rim.

Since you only want to change the tyre for more traction, the size of the rim will stay the same. The height and width of the tyre can change, just make sure to measure the clearance under your fender! You can increase the height by around 1-2 inches and still use the mower deck. You may have to level the deck, but that's easy.

Many here have had good success with the Bearcat, the Ocelot and the Ambush tyres. They are ATV style and work just fine. They really are not all that expensive.
Check Amazon, this is just one link:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=23X10X12+ATV+tires&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
 

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A tire deforms as load is applied. The ground contact patch spreads out to match the pressure in the tire that supports the load. Given equal tire pressure and the same load, a wider tire will deform (squat) less, but it will have the same size contact patch.

Either reduce the tire pressure, add weight to the tractor, or get tires with a more aggressive tread.

Reducing tire pressure will also change the forward tilt of the mower deck. A 1 psi pressure change will change the axle ride height about 1/4".

My preferred method is to load the tires with liquid. The weight of the liquid is carried by the ground and does not change the contact patch significantly, thereby increasing the ground pressure over that applied by adding the same amount of weight to the tractor which will moderately increase the ground contact patch to compensate. Weight added to the tractor (wheel weights or suitcase weights) is carried by the air pressure in the tires.

An option for more aggressive tire tread is to add tire chains to the turfs. Several members have done this with success without damaging the lawn.
 

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I put 3000 series wheels and tires on my GT2544. I know you would like to keep the stock wheels... But I'm pretty sure the 3000 series wheels/tires is what you are looking for.
 

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I put 3000 series wheels and tires on my GT2544. I know you would like to keep the stock wheels... But I'm pretty sure the 3000 series wheels/tires is what you are looking for.
Congrats on the tractor. I love all the shaft drive Cubs.

If you want "the look" then this is the way to go. 3000 series wheels are 8" wide and the 2550 wheels are 7". Wider tires in the 7" rims just get taller and rounder on the edges.

The pic below shows my 24x10-12 Ocelot ATV tires unmounted next to mounted on 7" rims you can see how the narrow rim pushes it up. These tires do not spin and I run them on big hills and pull a box blade and 200+lb gravel drag. No ballast at all.

I have 7" wide rims on both of my tractors but would like to have 8" to flatten the tread out. I don't really need to do that but it would make them look better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put 3000 series wheels and tires on my GT2544. I know you would like to keep the stock wheels... But I'm pretty sure the 3000 series wheels/tires is what you are looking for.
Thats the look I want! What size tires are they? Ill look into the 3000 series wheels with some a TV tires or ag tread for that size wheel.

Congrats on the tractor. I love all the shaft drive Cubs.

If you want "the look" then this is the way to go. 3000 series wheels are 8" wide and the 2550 wheels are 7". Wider tires in the 7" rims just get taller and rounder on the edges.

The pic below shows my 24x10-12 Ocelot ATV tires unmounted next to mounted on 7" rims you can see how the narrow rim pushes it up. These tires do not spin and I run them on big hills and pull a box blade and 200+lb gravel drag. No ballast at all.

I have 7" wide rims on both of my tractors but would like to have 8" to flatten the tread out. I don't really need to do that but it would make them look better.
Exactly. The picture of yours mounted looks goofy to me as well. Seems like they need to fill in the whole fender.
Ill look into finding some halfway decent priced 3000 series wheels and atv or ag tread tires for them
 

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Thats the look I want! What size tires are they? Ill look into the 3000 series wheels with some a TV tires or ag tread for that size wheel.



Exactly. The picture of yours mounted looks goofy to me as well. Seems like they need to fill in the whole fender.
Ill look into finding some halfway decent priced 3000 series wheels and atv or ag tread tires for them
Yep, They look too skinny for the tractor. They grip like mad though so the looks don't make a difference in traction. The wheel size is 12x8.5 4/4, or 12x8 4/4. I've looked for awhile and found a few. Here are some that should work if Cub wheels are too pricey or hard to find. Gotta watch the offset. There are some ZTR wheels on there that are too far inset--they would rub.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-12-12x8-5-4-4-RIM-WHEEL-fits-some-John-Deere-Garden-Lawn-Tractors-Mowers/352339348773
 

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What is the main use for the tractor? If you are doing garden work go with the AG’s, if you are hauling through the rough, the ATV type tires would be the best. But if the primary use is mowing and the turf tires don’t have enough traction, you may want to consider HDAP’s. In the picture below is the All-Trail that I use on my GT3235 and it is a great all-around tire – much more traction than a turf but they do not tear up the lawn like an ATV tire can. A bunch of guys here love them and Deere fits very similar tires as OEM on many of their 500 & 700 series tractors. Of course, if the tractor is primarily for fun, there is no wrong answer – whatever looks good to you is the way to go!

How big can you go on a GT2500 series? I have used 24X12-12 Turf Masters on 3000 series wheels (9” wide, I think) on the GT2550 below. I switched to them a few years ago, to correct the horrible way the lawn looked with the standard 9.50’s. These are heavy tractors (all are over 800 lbs.) and the stock tires are very heavily loaded. The 12” tread lowers the ground pressure and gives a really good-looking cut – a half-way decent stripe even. However, for anyone already having traction problems, this is not the set up you want, as the reduced loading makes them VERY easy to spin – you have to drive them carefully in situations where one side is unloaded. And they are not a bolt on, mods are required.

Your tractor looks really great from the back, like new! Give us the story on how your scored it, and MORE PICTURES please!
 

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.... they do not tear up the lawn like an ATV tire can.
I feel this is a common misconception with ATV tires. My ATVs do not tear up the grass. They just flat out don't spin at all. The only time I've spun them was going way too fast around a tree on a hill and the inside tire chunked out a piece of turf. I slowed down around that tree and haven't torn up grass since. Probably have mowed ~70hrs on the ATVs and I go fast and turn sharp on the XT3. Mow 2.5 acres/week.

I think the compound is soft enough to where they grip like glue.
 

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Soil conditions play a major part also in whether tyres disturb it. My soil here in northern Florida has a high sand content that is completely natural, that means none has been added. But it also means that the roots of the grass and other don't go down as far as they would as in the northern areas of the country. Rainfall drains off quickly which is nice since we normally get over 60 inches of rain a year.
The turf tyres I had originally, spun and delivered poor traction in the flat sections and especially on turns and chewed up the grass horribly. Also have a small section where the ground is almost perpetually damp and with the turf tyres, very easy to get stuck, even though it is level.
I first changed the rear tyres to an ATV style chevron lug and my traction problems went completely away. No more getting stuck, no more chewing up the grass and could mow the damp section without any problems. My newest used tractor has ATV modified chevron on the front tyres and the Ambush ATV tyres on the rear. There is no spinning of the rear tyres and the turns with the front tyres are much sharper.
I'll never use the turf tyres again on any mower.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What is the main use for the tractor? If you are doing garden work go with the AG’s, if you are hauling through the rough, the ATV type tires would be the best. But if the primary use is mowing and the turf tires don’t have enough traction, you may want to consider HDAP’s. In .

Your tractor looks really great from the back, like new! Give us the story on how your scored it, and MORE PICTURES please!
Her main uses are mowing an acre of lawn which has some pretty steep hills, and occasionally pulling a trailer of soil, mulch, or kids around. Id like to get a large roller, and a dethatcher for her as well.
Ive added some more pics of her. She is a beaut! My Simplicity Landlord died on me mid-cut last week and I was tired of always working on it. So I searched for a new machine and came across this gem. I traded the guy my Simplicity and $600 and I drove off into the sunset with the 2550! The CC has 380 hours on her as well.

Ill take a look at some 3000 series wheels, and maybe some hdap tires. Thanks for the help!

Soil conditions play a major part also in whether tyres disturb it.
I'm up in Wisconsin. My soil is pretty firm and mostly farm field quality topsoil. Ive got some pretty steep hills where I am crossing the hills, going up/down them at angles, and going straight up/down them.
 

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What is the main use for the tractor? If you are doing garden work go with the AG’s, if you are hauling through the rough, the ATV type tires would be the best. But if the primary use is mowing and the turf tires don’t have enough traction, you may want to consider HDAP’s. In .

Your tractor looks really great from the back, like new! Give us the story on how your scored it, and MORE PICTURES please!
Her main uses are mowing an acre of lawn which has some pretty steep hills, and occasionally pulling a trailer of soil, mulch, or kids around. Id like to get a large roller, and a dethatcher for her as well.
Ive added some more pics of her. She is a beaut! My Simplicity Landlord died on me mid-cut last week and I was tired of always working on it. So I searched for a new machine and came across this gem. I traded the guy my Simplicity and $600 and I drove off into the sunset with the 2550! The CC has 380 hours on her as well.

Ill take a look at some 3000 series wheels, and maybe some hdap tires. Thanks for the help!

Soil conditions play a major part also in whether tyres disturb it.
I'm up in Wisconsin. My soil is pretty firm and mostly farm field quality topsoil. Ive got some pretty steep hills where I am crossing the hills, going up/down them at angles, and going straight up/down them.
Great looking Cub. How do you like the front opening hood?
 

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I'm up in Wisconsin. My soil is pretty firm and mostly farm field quality topsoil. Ive got some pretty steep hills where I am crossing the hills, going up/down them at angles, and going straight up/down them.

The state I was born in, forgetaboudit, know it quite well. But just like the turf tyres, ain't never goin back.
Take a good look at what is available for you and be sure to let us all know what you decide. The pictures are nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I dont mind the front opening hood. Little different. Thanks for the comments on the machine. I love it so far.
 

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Hi Forgetaboutit – You did great, that is a really nice unit and a super buy. The 2500’s have some “interesting” features, but all in all are very tough and capable tractors. You have got a workhorse for years to come – mine has over 800 hours on it and is going strong, runs & drives almost like new (with the exception of one recent fail that I will post on later).

The rear hinged hoods broke left n’ right and Cub went through three revised hoods, none of which fixed the problem (I had two replaced under warranty myself before I made mine into a front hinged hood). The two gas struts put too much pressure on attaching points that were too close and the mounting stands broke right off the hood. They finally came up with a metal bracket to better distribute the force that did the job. The retrofit bracket bolted to the hood attaching frame and then further forward through the hood louvers. Does your hood have it?

Also, where are you in WI? I am just north of Fond du Lac.
 

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Hi Forgetaboutit – You did great, that is a really nice unit and a super buy. The 2500’s have some “interesting” features, but all in all are very tough and capable tractors. You have got a workhorse for years to come – mine has over 800 hours on it and is going strong, runs & drives almost like new (with the exception of one recent fail that I will post on later).

The rear hinged hoods broke left n’ right and Cub went through three revised hoods, none of which fixed the problem (I had two replaced under warranty myself before I made mine into a front hinged hood). The two gas struts put too much pressure on attaching points that were too close and the mounting stands broke right off the hood. They finally came up with a metal bracket to better distribute the force that did the job. The retrofit bracket bolted to the hood attaching frame and then further forward through the hood louvers. Does your hood have it?

Also, where are you in WI? I am just north of Fond du Lac.
Is this the bracket you're talking about?
Small world, I'm just down in West Bend!?
What "interesting" features do the 2550's have?
 

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Greetings – The hood fix kit (the last one, I think) had a metal extension that was attached to the bracket in your picture and extended forward to the front of the louvers. It was attached there by a U-bolt through a louver, the U-bolt being hidden by the standard louver cover. A bit crude, but it worked as far as I know – I only saw a picture of it once.

I was understating with the word interesting, some would put it a bit differently. The first one is the gas strut hood of course, a bad idea (probably came from the marketing department) that was also poorly executed – resulting in the ongoing wave of broken hoods. The other issue seen too often is a crack around one or both of the front seat mounts – they rely on the fender pan only for support and it’s not enough (after welding mine twice, I replaced the pan and added support). Those are the major problem areas I am aware of, along with the forward/reverse shaft mount issue I just found. I also prefer the shielded cooling air intake and the heftier dash supports of both the earlier and later models in the series, but those are lesser issues. One thing that the GT2500’s did have was a pretty good attachment line-up. All in all, it has still been as great tractor for me and one I intend to hang on to.

Yes, West Bend is right down the road from me, I do get through there from time to time. Do you use the local Cub dealer? It would be a bit far for you (probably an hour or so away) but I do a lot of business with Madson’s in St. Nazianz – they are great. Let me know if I can help with something, cheers!
 

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Greetings – The hood fix kit (the last one, I think) had a metal extension that was attached to the bracket in your picture and extended forward to the front of the louvers. It was attached there by a U-bolt through a louver, the U-bolt being hidden by the standard louver cover. A bit crude, but it worked as far as I know – I only saw a picture of it once.

I was understating with the word interesting, some would put it a bit differently. The first one is the gas strut hood of course, a bad idea (probably came from the marketing department) that was also poorly executed – resulting in the ongoing wave of broken hoods. The other issue seen too often is a crack around one or both of the front seat mounts – they rely on the fender pan only for support and it’s not enough (after welding mine twice, I replaced the pan and added support). Those are the major problem areas I am aware of, along with the forward/reverse shaft mount issue I just found. I also prefer the shielded cooling air intake and the heftier dash supports of both the earlier and later models in the series, but those are lesser issues. One thing that the GT2500’s did have was a pretty good attachment line-up. All in all, it has still been as great tractor for me and one I intend to hang on to.

Yes, West Bend is right down the road from me, I do get through there from time to time. Do you use the local Cub dealer? It would be a bit far for you (probably an hour or so away) but I do a lot of business with Madson’s in St. Nazianz – they are great. Let me know if I can help with something, cheers!
Thanks for all the info! I just got the machine last weekend, and haven't needed a dealer thus far. I normally do all my own repairs and servicing anyway. Im not too fond of stealerships...
 
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