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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any body use or have purchsed the front wheel spacers for a 2520? What ya think. I am bound and determined to make the front of mine more stable.
 

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Make sure your tires are on the wide setting. We have another member that has them on his 2210 in the rear. He will be along soon.
 

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I'm here. Turn your tires to the widest setting. If you need more, load the tires with RimGuard. On my 2210, I have loaded tires + wheel spacers that were designed for the X-series to clear chains. I don't know if the bolt spacing on the 2520 is the same, but if it is, I could post part numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The wheels are at the widest position. The part numbers you listed a while ago are for the 2210. I looked up on Deeres parts index and a different part number was listed for the 2520. Dealer gave them to me for $60.00 per spacer and 3.00 for lug bolts. I am also thinking of switching to a larger ply tire for my fronts to help in reducing the squating when loaded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Using turf tires.
 

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Clacy,

Maybe you could post the P/Ns for the 2520 spacers. As for the stableness, do you think it has increased with the spacers?
 

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Any body use or have purchsed the front wheel spacers for a 2520? What ya think. I am bound and determined to make the front of mine more stable.

This is just my opinion - spacers in the front should be the last resort -after the rears have been set to the widest setting (valve stem inside), and loaded with liguid of your choice.
By increasing the footprint of the front tires farther away from each other, you reduce the maxium load capacities - creating more stress on the axles the farther spaced they are from each other. Just a thought, sounds likes its your last resort and you did the rest.

Let us know of any updates or part numbers if your successful in finding spacers.
 

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I'm here. Turn your tires to the widest setting. If you need more, load the tires with RimGuard. On my 2210, I have loaded tires + wheel spacers that were designed for the X-series to clear chains. I don't know if the bolt spacing on the 2520 is the same, but if it is, I could post part numbers.
FYI... the wheel spacers are completely different.
 

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With the rear being the solid mounted diff would not it help to increase the rear stance of the tractor. If you have enough rear weight to compensate for the load in the bucket your rear axle would be the part that gives you stability. What i mean is if you dont have loaded tires or a ballast box when you max out your loader the first thing that happens is you lift a rear wheel. If you can keep the rear wheels on the ground then you shouldnt have a ballance problem. I would be concerned with creating extra stress on the front end by making it wider.
 

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996 I was just pointing out what would help instead of putting more stress on the front end joints. Putting spacers in cannot be all that good for the front. Old tractors did have adjustable fronts but it didnt space the front wheels out away from the bearings and spindles.. Sorry for making it look like i was headed somewhere else with it. Guess i didnt complete my thought very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Installed the John Deere front wheel spacers today. You need two men and a midget to do it. The John Deere part number is LVU12475 for the spacers and LVU13274 for the longer lug bolts. It puts the wheels out an additional inch on each side. Did make a differance, and there is a notable differance in the look of the wheel spaceing. Now the tires run closer to the tread bite of the rears. My next step will be to add wheel wieghts or fluid to the rear to see if that will help any better than the concrete weight box on the rear right now.
 

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Installed the John Deere front wheel spacers today. You need two men and a midget to do it. The John Deere part number is LVU12475 for the spacers and LVU13274 for the longer lug bolts. It puts the wheels out an additional inch on each side. Did make a differance, and there is a notable differance in the look of the wheel spaceing. Now the tires run closer to the tread bite of the rears. My next step will be to add wheel wieghts or fluid to the rear to see if that will help any better than the concrete weight box on the rear right now.

Could you post some pictures? I mean of the two men and a midget - :) LOL

j/k I would like to see it from the front, when you can...its good to know its possible and a spacer exists. I think the fluid will give you more stability then the wheel weights or 3pt ballast box
 

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Duc,

I'd like to see Clacy's posts as to the stability too. I know on my 2210, I immediately (after almost flipping the tractor) had the tires loaded. It made an incredible difference. When I got the wheel spacers, it also made about the same difference (i.e. 2X as stable). What the additional wear on the mechanicals is, I don't know, but the tractor does feel really planted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well heres the verdict. Used the 2520 for 12 hours the past few days moving 13 inches of heavy wet snow. Installed the spacers, and yes the front end is more planted on the ground than in the past. Was very impressed with what I installed. Still need to maybe put some fluid in the tires, but I am not a big fan of this yet, so Ill stick to my concrete weight box on the back.
 

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Good to hear with the success - the only negative in loading the rears is if you get a puncture. Taking into account that Rimguard is used, the rest is all positive and will only add (and not take away) to the overall stability. Being cost effective is its biggest draw (using Rimguard)
 
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