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That looks like the perfect amount. Full, but still enough room to throw some loose stuff in if you want.

Did you end up using the Race Deck (for the garage floor)? I've been looking at that stuff too. By the way, what is that Garage Floor Protector product you have on the floor?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Just go back home last night. I am a member of a garage forum and did lots of research to get mine to the point it is at.I looked at so many floor systems I just could not find one I really liked. The Race Deck (best one) floor is nice but I was thinking if putting some real tile down. The Race Deck is $4 to $5 for a 12x12 block. I have to think I can get some over run tile in the same range. Just a lot more labor but I have a guy on my street that in the tile business. Maybe he needs some loader work??? I have another guy (electrician) that wants me to move some stone around for him and he will be running some ceiling fans in three bedrooms. The little 2305 is paying its own way!!!
 

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Mayor,

I haven't chimed in on this project. Looks real good! I bet it secures the back of the 2305 to the ground pretty darn well.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The tractor is stuck to the ground when that thing is on the back. Still a little nervous on hills.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
what is that Garage Floor Protector product you have on the floor?

I have a Car Pad (www.carpad.com) on the floor. With new construction you can not have any drains in the garage. So I picked up the Car Pads to hold water on the pads. They hold like 70 gallons of water on each one. Mainly in the winter they come in handy. I let the snow melt off the cars then back one out and use a large rubber blade to push the water out side. Mine are a little beat up from my old home had gravel driveway for two years.
 

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Mayor said:
what is that Garage Floor Protector product you have on the floor?

I have a Car Pad (www.carpad.com) on the floor. With new construction you can not have any drains in the garage. So I picked up the Car Pads to hold water on the pads. They hold like 70 gallons of water on each one. Mainly in the winter they come in handy. I let the snow melt off the cars then back one out and use a large rubber blade to push the water out side. Mine are a little beat up from my old home had gravel driveway for two years.

Really, cant run any floor drains? We put a concrete floor in our garage last year, it has a drain. Drains into a55 gal plastic drum we have buried out in our driveway about 6 ft down.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The last two new homes in PA (2000 Wilkes-Barre and 2004 Allentown) I had the builder and inspectors said no garage floor drains. I guess there thinking is oil and gas from the cars could cause problems for the wells and streams in the area. My cars do not leak. Who knows why but that how it went down.
 

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I went down the same road. I was told "no drain". I even tried to talk to the county into letting me have a drain that simply drains onto my own property (not into the sewer or septic system) but it was a no-go. Now I do the same procedure as Mayor. Wash cars in the garage (at least I got a hosebib in there) and squeegy the water out.
 

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Building codes vary but I think due to DEP/EPA regs, floor drains, for the most part are out. Unless, that is, you are willing to install and oil/water seperator. I had thoughts of installing drains between site inspections and simply pouring crete over them until I got my occupancy permit. Then I could break out the drains. Unfortunately, time did not allow me to do this. Instead I pitched the slab forward to assist in draining. A floor drain sure would have been nice though.
 

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Ditto in Northern Illinois, just south of the cheezeline. The logic is that if you want a floor drain in the garage or in an outbuilding, they will let you; BUT you must install a triple sump system to catch the oil that might end up in the water. I didn't have the heart to tell them that the floor in my barn was poured thick enough to support an external post lift for my cars. They would have had a fit with that one. Guess we're paying the price for the years people just dumped oil anywhere. I don't like the fact I had to use the pitched floor method, but I can see why others have caused that to be a fact now.

Good luck :greendr:


Mayor said:
The last two new homes in PA (2000 Wilkes-Barre and 2004 Allentown) I had the builder and inspectors said no garage floor drains. I guess there thinking is oil and gas from the cars could cause problems for the wells and streams in the area. My cars do not leak. Who knows why but that how it went down.
 

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Tou can always put in your own drain after the fact. My brother in law simply cut a 6" hole in the conrete and created a dry well that goes down about 3'. Filled it with gravel and he was good to go.

By the way, nice project. The addition of tool slots is a great idea. :fing32:
 

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Mayor,
when you filled your box did you put straight cement in it or did you mix it with crushed rock? also any idea if adding crushed rock will reduce the total weight you end up with after the job is finished?
Keith
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I just used bags of quick concrete and mixed it right in the box. Did a half bag at a time and added water as needed. As per Loogie I got a ager/mixer for my drill which helped. Will you be putting some PVC in for tools?
 

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I'm thinking that if I were to do it again, I'd use galvanized 2" pipe instead of PVC in my box. It would increase the weight and I wouldn't have to worry about ever breaking them. Also easier to paint. HD will cut the pipe to length for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
That sounds like it would work fine but ours look good and work well.

Any update on your up coming project. I just ordered a tri-axle of top soil/fill from a guy right down the road. He said $50.00 per load. Its not the best stuff but it will work for my needs. I need some fill to level a spot out for my shed. Then I will put the rest down the back near my arbs. Might get another just to have in the back for other projects.
 

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I'm expecting a load of topsoil next week. The truck he has is an 18 wheeler sized and the whole back is a dumper!
This weather sucks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Question, I have a large vise on my work bench but for any items I really need to crank on the bench will move. Like if I had to bend a steel pipe or something like that. I have another large vise and was thinking of drilling holes into the concrete of the weight box and mounting one on top. Now I would paint it green and it would look cool. This way if I ever have to really get a good hold the 700 lbs will be hard to move. Also the tractor can move it anywhere I need it. What do you think?
 

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Mayor, my 2 cents worth would say not to do it, but if you have a recessed hitch for the back of your tractor gear it up to fit in that when you would need it. that is how I would go, It would be a lot easier and better than drilling and anchoring in the cement. I could see myself pounding on something, etc and cracking the cement and being really sick about it.
 

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I think you should just bolt your bench to the floor. You'll probably get more use out of it that way. The vise on the ballast box would be at an awkward working height...and personally I'm not it sure it would look that great. Prove me wrong!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I guess you guys are right. I like the hitch idea.
 
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