My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
58th Infantry BCT, HOOAH
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Everywhere I read it says that the 2305 can't have rear and front auxillary lights. The only acceptable reason I have come across is electrical draw on the power feed lines.

However, the draw appears to be within limits for the wire gauge. Does anyone have any further information for this? I don't want to burn up my wiring harness, but I also don't want to polevault a mouse terd either.

The front light kit comes with two splitter harnesses. One for each side of the tractor. These harnesses allow for easy (stock) installation of the rear light also. The lights also mount in different locations so that is not a problem. The front lights run 35 Watts each (3 Amps each), and the rear light runs at 55 Watts (4.5 Amps). With everything on, the total draw is 10.5 Amps. I measured a little less than that with a clamp-on ammeter (probably because voltage was around 13.3 Volts).

Giving the wiring harness some wiggle room for length, I am guessing it is around 10 foot (we don't care post connectors because the load substantially drops for just one light). I also assume the left and right side light connectors join up somewhere.

At 10 foot long and 11 Amps, 18 gauge wire easily handles the load and it is well within all safety standards of the charts I have. Additionally, the circuit is protected with a 15 Amp fuse.

Everything looks like it should be good.

Does anyone have further information on this?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
12,901 Posts
Its not so much the draw of the lights. Its the output of your alternator. you will end up drawing your battery down and have issues on that end with to many lights going at once on that unit.
 

·
USMC
Joined
·
19,146 Posts
Just buy the larger alternator. slkpk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,660 Posts
I run the JD ROPS lights front and one rear on all my tractors including the 2305 and have never had an issue, sometimes in the winter it will be out for 7+ hours plowing.
 

·
Great Site Good People
Joined
·
6,656 Posts
I run the JD ROPS lights front and one rear on all my tractors including the 2305 and have never had an issue, sometimes in the winter it will be out for 7+ hours plowing.
That is a great idea! I think some others do that also. I bought the extra front light kit and mounted on the front of canopy. Makes all the difference. No issues on the regular alternator handling this. Also installed a 12 v port for sprayer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
333 Posts

·
The Magnificent
Joined
·
20,952 Posts
Also Deere is now selling LED lights which take a little getting used to but have a fraction of the current draw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,131 Posts
Hi

The 2 light kit can also be installed 1 front and 1 back if you want. I have mine both mounted facing back and the light output is fantastic. I use mine for plowing mostly. No street lights out here in the woods so I need lights facing back when plowing. The stock headlights on the 2320 work fine when using the 54 blade.

Cheers
Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
plowing/mowing at night with 2 grill lights, 3- 55 watt driving lights on rops after 3 years still going strong!!! what i did was installed a relay to run the rop light from the battery and used the factory light harness to turn the relay on/off from the switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Hi, new here, just trolling for a copy of the wire diagram for the 2305....I'm heading in Monday to buy the CD but was hoping to work on my tractor this weekend.

I was doing some digging this morning in MUD, and something hit up under the tractor and pushed the wire harness in to the drive axil and that was it!

The drive axil ripped the wire harness out and killed the tractor.

After changing a fuse and separating the bare wires from the exposed harness I was able to get the tractor running, but had to hold the key turned all the way to Ignition...drove it out of the mud, and figured I'd have them pick it up Monday.

But I later decided to take a closer look. I found both ends of the wire harness (about 10 wires) and was able to rebuild the wire harness, but put the wires in a strange thing NOT KNOW TO JOHN DEERE...A PIPE. at least now the wire harness is better protected.

I tried to start but no...broke down the wire harness and checked wires for continuity figuring that there may be more damage down stream from my splice. The seat switch wires and the 'in-neutral' sensor wires were fine. The rear lights not yet working. I gave up and decided to put the correct size fuse in ( I had used a mini fuse, same amperage, from my car earlier), turned out the same 15 amp fuse had blown and I tried to start it again, and it runs. The seat safety switch and neutral sensor are ok but no rear lights. Also the fuel gage does not work. Head lights ok.

So tomorrow I am going to break down the front again and see if the wire was pulled out of the fuel gage.

The wire harness had been pulled so much that up front a relay had been pulled off it's mount so I think wires above that part of the harness may have been pulled a bit as well.

The rear lights are more puzzeling.

At least if the rain holds I can get back to my yard work tomorrow. (rant - I had clay).

Soooo, if anyone can scan a copy of the wire diagram and post it that would be helpful. Once I get the CD manual I will post the entire thing.

$19,000 for the tractor - can't include the $40 disk. bastards.

Mike
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top