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Discussion Starter #1
So, most have seen my threads when I got this bute, I love it. I did all the fluids right away, including the engine oil, and I used Rotella T 30w oil. After maybe 5 hours of hard work, it was a little over half a qt low. I check it before every job, and every couple hours is at least half a quart. No leaks, and no smoke with the 30w.

Now before I get in trouble for this, I know it isn't desirable, but after flushing the oil with some seafoam, and letting it drain for 24hrs, I tried 15w40 oil and some lucas, and it smoked a little on start up, and used about the same....I know, its not the right oil, so I changed it out after a couple hrs of run time, and some reading around here.

Now, I drained the 15w40 for 24 hr, and I filled it w/ 50w Penzoil GT Racing oil, mainly because I had it on the shelf for the Harley, and I wanted some thicker oil, Any thoughts? I'm an auto mechanic, and know a little of small engines, but not a ton yet. I'm figuring the engine has some wear, and it is hot now anyway. I used a little lucas again. I've had good results with that stuff in auto engines before, so we'll see. Just lookin for some input and things to bounce around, may be looking at an overhaul soon if this persists.

I do not plan to keep that oil in there in cold weather if I get a snow caster.
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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On worn engines that are splash lubricated, I have had good luck with 50w oil as a short term remedy for light to moderate oil consumption. Just keep in mind that a rebuild isn't too far off and to replace it with the correct weight oil if you plan on winter use.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
^thanks, kinda what I'm thinking

Now, in an older car engine, I'm not a fan of synthetic oil at all, what are your thoughts on these engines? Being air cooled, I like the idea of running cooler that can result from synthetic oil, but are there similar downsides as well?
 

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There's no downside to using the synthetic other than the cost and since you are consuming oil at a higher than nomal rate, I don't see the point for the synthetic. I won't reduce your oil consumption and while the engine might run a tad cooler, that's not a big deal in my opinion either. If I were you, I 'd stick with the 50 weight and forget about the Lucas too.

All these engines are designed to use some oil right from day one. That's the way they are. And you need to change the oil every 25 hours tops if you want to get rid of the contaminants. Your dime, though.. not mine. If synthetic floats your boat then go ahead.
 

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HeadCase For My Ingersoll
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The basic idea behind not running synthetic oil in older engines is due to synthetic being highly detergent and less prone to cause carbon buildup. If an older engine already has a leak, synthetic will only make it worse. Secondly, it will loosen up existing deposits and raise the chance free-floating debris will clog the oil pump pickup screen, lifters, oil passages, filter, etc. What would have been done in earnest in order to extend the life of an aged engine will in fact shorten it.

Using synthetic in OPE is subjective. The main concern is to make sure the proper weight oil is used. Come summer, don't replace 30w for 10w30 or 20w50 synthetic or blended. Also, just like with older auto engines; Don't use synthetic in older engines. It will only cause headaches - And wasting high end oil in an aged engine is like taking a shower in yesterday's underwear.

Some modern OPE require 10w30 oil. Synthetic should be alright in these as long as the engine isn't very old. But I'd consider using such oil pointless unless the engine is pressure lubricated. Most, if not all, oil pump equipped Kohlers use hydraulic lifters. For obvious reasons, synthetic would be the better choice for these.

And as always, if any internal engine parts are teflon coated DO NOT use synthetic oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Perfect, you guys just confirmed my thought process on the situation, thanks you two.

Oh and classic, I'm glad you have a grasp on the synthetic oil, its amazing where some people go with that, and I was worried I was going to start another issue in another direction. You are spot on with what you said.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I put her to work for 3 to 4 hours today, and it consumed no oil w/ the 50w, whereas before it would've used almost half a qt during that job. So that makes me feel a little better.

New question: my hour meter moved like 1/2 hr today during 3 to 4 hrs of work, is this typically a bad meter or anything else to look at?

And just cuz I love pictures, here she is on my new to me trailer. It was green when I got it, and I installed that spare tire carrier, it was a spare carrier off a wrangler. And that is a temporary spare, I have a line on a full size new tire and wheel this week. I also installed some reflectors, and the reflective tape. Enjoy:

 

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The HM may be defective but I'd be making sure that the connections are shiny and tight first. If you have bad connections then the meter is only going to read when the vibration makes the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sorry, whats HM? the meter didn't work when it wasn't charging, after I replaced the rectifier it was working.

never mind, Hour Meter, duh.
 
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