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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a nice johndeere 212, although it has a really bad oil leak out of the clutch. #1, how do I get the center bolt off that is holding the pulley on? #2 is it a really hard job? Not real experienced. Anything I should watch out for?
 

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Hmmm, if you put pics up they didn't come through. So The clutch mechanism doesn't have any seals that I remember. If you are talking about a leak at the transmission where the pulley goes into the case then you have to take the big pully off by removing the 3 bolts in it. If you are talking about removing the idler pulley then the diagram should help.
 

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You could probably get a seal from Napa. They would need the engine make and number if you don't have a seal to show them. I think it's unlikely that there was no seal in there though... how about a close-up picture?
 

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Ok, I am learning a lot. Thanks everyone for your help. That was indeed the seal. I got it out, just came right out. Was loose for sure. It seems like it's way too loose for what the seal is suppose to do.....
 

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Astea, Sounds like you're pretty new at this stuff, but you strted out right by asking questions.

Hopefully, here's a couple of pointers for you.
The VERY first thing you need to do is sign up with "https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned?selectedMenu=JDPARTS_HOME&userAction=countrySelected&country=US&language=19" Search the model number, 212, and you'll find a JD part number for every part on your tractor. Once you locate the front seal, copy & paste into "parts Details". This may give you the exact OD & ID...and possibly an aftermarket seal number. DON'T use/rely the number of your seal, a previous owner may have replaced it with one that was " kinda close"...hence your leak. (If link doesn't work, search jdparts.deere.com")

A couple of things you need to do before installing seal:
Clean up crankshaft at pto fit...I'd suggest Scotch Brite and then wash with parts cleaner. 400 emery will do in a pinch. Many spray cans of brake & parts cleaner available Walmart, box stores, or auto parts stores.
Next, run your finger CAREFULLY around the crankshaft where the seal seats. You may see & feel a slight groove but you don't want any cuts, nicks, burs on the sealing surface or prior to where the seal rides/seals! A bur will cut the seal as your installing it!
Installing seal: A seal can do 2 things, keep oil in, or keep oil out! The direction of the lip determines what the seal will do. Looking at your pics when your removed the seal, you'll see the lip is facing the engine. Any oil pressure will push the lip tighter against the crankshaft...sealing oil in. I don't know where your getting a replacement seal but a replacement by OD & ID can lead to trouble! Your seal was installed with the metal surface away from the engine but a replacement seal may need to be installed the other way...LOOK at the direction of the lip! One last tip, Lube the lip of the seal & the crankshaft with engine oil. A seal that is installed dry can...and usually will!... fail in the first 10 revolutions of the rotating member.

One last comment...well, maybe 2! I don't know what you know or don't know, so please don't be offended as I'm NOT trying to insult your intelligence. The second comment would be, if you don't know just ask. We're all here to help. Bob
 
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