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211-4 help

4026 Views 21 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  The Toolman
well, as i posted last week my motor went south . instead of rebuilding it i bought one & put it on. runs like a top BUT, the key wont shut it off, have a wireing issue somewhere. and when i push the brake to stop or change gears it keeps going. when the brake isnt locked it rattles & is noisy. wasnt like this before. belt looks like its routed right & on the tensioner pully correctly{i think}. seems like a lot of slop in the belt. this concerns me more than the electrical problem right now. any advice??
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I'd first check to make sure that the black wire is hooked up to the small terminal on the magneto. If the wire is missing, the magneto can't be shorted to ground, and the motor runs on until either it runs out of fuel or you choke it to death.

211's and 210's are tough little buggers, even for a lawn mower.
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by magneto do you mean the coil, if so there is a black wire but its not hooked to anything, where should it be connected to?
Hey Bill, there should be a black wire that comes from the front and top of the engine. You will not be able to see where it connects to the magneto unless you take the cover off. It comes out and down on the carb side of the engine. It connects to a post beside the carb where the throttle connects. The post has that black wire and a blue wire that comes from the starter switch on the dash. The blue wire is mixed in with the wiring harness. Both these wires connect together on that little post. It uses a nut to tighten it on the post. That's your kill wire.

Is your new engine also a 11hp briggs and stratton? Could be some difference if it is not.

engine2quarters knows more about this than I do I am sure and I did not mean to jump in but I just went thru some of what you are going thru now.
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thanks, i`ll hook it with the blue wire on the carb side. i had the cover off & thats where it comes from but comes out on the starter side but this motor came off a MTD so it might be different so i`ll hook it like you said & see what happens. problem.
I just remember finding that black wire cut (or eaten) in half after the mice were evicted.
bmuone, tried it , no go. when i hook it up the tractor wont start, unhook it & it started right up
Be real careful where you hook that wire. If it gets ANY battery voltage it will cook the ignition coil.

It needs to go to the M terminal on the ignition coil and only the M terminal. If that is where it was the ignition switch is done. Some went to an interlock relay and others to safety switches. What is the long model number of your tractor and will look for a diagram.

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Bill, there is the man who you need to help you out on this. Garry knows his stuff. Just give him your engine numbers and he can help you without cooking your equip.

Thanks Garry.... I think Bill has changed from the 11hp briggs, but I am not sure what he has now.
ok, here we go. Garry, both engines are 12hp briggs.
the old engine #s. mod.# 281707 type# 0412-01 code# 91062011
the new engine #s mod.# 284707 type# 0147-01 code# 9504204E
the new engine is off a MTD the old engine isn`t the original on my Wheel Horse because it also says Craftsman on it . on the old engine there is a square metal bloch bolted to the cover by the oil filler tube that has 2 wires going to it. the new engine dont have the block but has the 2 wires going to a plastic plugin. i guess we will start with this info & work forward. wish i knew how to post pics
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What is the model number of the tractor?
32-11B401 1987
32-11B402 1988
32-11B403 1989

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Garry, where would the tractor mod # be located? i just took the covers off both motors to compare. the old one has 1 wire comming out from under the flywheel. that wire goes to that small block on the outside of the cover then comes out of the block & goes to a wire in the dash of the tractor.
the new motor has 2 wires comming from under the fly wheel 1 large red wire & 1 smaller black wire that i trace to the headlights on the MTD. ill go look for that model # now.
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Guessing the tractors ID decal is on the rear fender pan under the seat.

How many wires coming from this engine?

Red should be a DC output to charge the battery.

The black should be an AC output to power the lights only like on the MTD. Do not hook that up yet because the original Wheel Horse motor used DC for the lights and it was wired to the headlamps through the ignition switch. You need to remove the wire that feeds the headlamp switch from the ignition switch and connect it to the black wire coming from the engine. The DC lights will work on the AC power but only with the engine running and the faster it runs the brighter the lights.

There should be another wire for the ignition.
Is this the one you hooked up and it would not run?
What did you connect it to?
Was the pto switch turned off when you tried it?
Was there an operator in the seat when you tried it?

You mention a blue wire. The original ignition wire is shown as dark blue. Have seen a black wire with a blue stripe used in this location.

Does the carburetor have an electric fuel shut off solenoid in the bottom of it?

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ok, 3 wires coming from engine. there is a small black wire that comes out of the coil. same as old motor. on the old motor this wire went to a square plastic mount on the plate for the throttle linkage, a wire from the dash also hooked to it with a stud in the plastic mount. the other 2 wires come out from under the flywheel, the smaller wire i know for sure went to the headlights on the mtd. the other is a larger red wire. the WH never had the headlights hooked up. yes i was sitting on the seat, i also started it with the brake in locked position. on the old motor there was only 1 wire coming from under the flywheel, it hooked to one side of some kind of electrical block on the cover, then a wire hooked to the other side of this block & goes under the dash. i do know that with the pto switch off , the pto runs when i start the motor.
ive sat out & studied this thing for a long time, here is what i thought of trying. i tought abought putting the old cover on it, hooking the red wire to that electrical block then the origanal wire to it like it was on the old motor??
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Do this just to make sure you are not going to blow up the ignition coil.

Take a test light or voltmeter and hook it to the (+) battery post. Connect the test light or the other voltmeter lead to the wire you think goes into the ignition switch to shut off the ignition.
This is what needs to happen.
With the key OFF the light should be ON or meter showing battery voltage.
With the key in the RUN position the light should be OFF or zero volts.

If the light is still on in the run position the pto switch or seat switch has failed to open or there is a short to ground between the switches.

The pto clutch has power to it whenever the key is ON. The pto switch controls 3 circuits.
1/2 of the pto switch when OFF provides a ground for the starter solenoid. When the pto switch is ON this same 1/2 of the switch provides a ground for the pto clutch instead of the starter.
The other 1/2 of the pto switch is connected to the ignition wire. With the pto switch OFF that is the end of it. With the pto ON this 1/2 connects the ignition ground wire to the seat switch which should be open with an operator in the seat. With pto on, operator falls out of seat, seat switch closes and connects the ignition wire to ground which kills the engine.
(Your pto is shorted to ground somewhere)

There is no switch on the brakes. There is a neutral switch on the clutch which controls the power to the starter solenoid only.

The small square box on the old motor would be a voltage regulator. This motor should have a diode just ahead the connector to rectify the AC current to DC for charging the battery. It should hook to the tractors original white wire OK.

Send me an email.
3 wests at sympatico dot ca
Change the dot and at and remove the spaces. Will return some wiring diagrams. Need any other manuals?

You didn't say what wire you hooked to what when it would not start.


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the wire i hooked up when it wouldnt start was the black wire coming from the coil to the post on the throttle linkage. when connected the motor just spins & wont start. disconnect & it fires right up. i`ll email you shortly
Garry, i did some testing , then i hooked it up like the old motor. i used that voltage reg on the side of the old cover & hooked it identical to the old. it solved a few problems.
#1 the key switch shuts the tractor off
#2 the charging system now charges
#3 when you are not on the seat & turn the pto on it shuts tractor off
starts & runs & shuts off great
problems that still exist
the pto runs continually , wont shut off.
still having problems with the clutch/brake when pushed in tractor wont stop.
closer than i was , but not there yet
i sent you the email but it didnt go thru. i`ll pm you mine
thanks Bill
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Did you get the wiring diagrams? Need more?

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