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Discussion Starter #1
So I decided I want to change the oil on my 210 plow tractor with the k241 Kohler. I found the drain plug but my question is what is the best direction to go as far as actually changing the oil short of removing the steering console box or starter? Cant access it from underneath because of the engine bracket. Any tips would be appreciated. TIA
 

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I'll never get to 10,000
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Should be a cut out in the bracket underneath per the service manual.
 

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I'm not sure of the clearance on your machine, but here is a trick I learned from a better mechanic than me. If the square headed plug is either 3/8" or 1/2", you can use a socket wrench extension in reverse. Put the square hole that usually goes on the wrench over the plug's head and use a wrench on the square stub end to loosen or tighten.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not sure of the clearance on your machine, but here is a trick I learned from a better mechanic than me. If the square headed plug is either 3/8" or 1/2", you can use a socket wrench extension in reverse. Put the square hole that usually goes on the wrench over the plug's head and use a wrench on the square stub end to loosen or tighten.
Hmm. I will definitely give that a try. But now that mother nature decided to start dumping snow on us again I guess the oil change won't happen til after I plow again. Lol. Thanks fir the tip
 

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After fiddlin and fussin with 12 point sockets on square headed botls, I bought a set of 8 point sockets that fit sooooooo much better. They are tough to find, and ain't cheap either, but they are worth getting if you have to deal with square headed fasteners.
 

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Mudslinger, Plan B: Remove existing plug and replace with a hex head pipe plug! If not available in box stores like Lowes, etc, try an auto parts store or an industrial supply house like Fastental. The hex head plug will be MUCH cheaper than any socket you find! Bob
 

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One minor word of caution. In you search for a plug, you may run across some with a female hex for an Allen wrench. These will also work, BUT they come in 2 variations, standard NPT and "Dry-Seal" or "Level Seal". Dry/Level seal will seal but are not meant to be used over and over. They have a different angle, 7/8" per foot vs 3/4" per foot, and tend to distort the female threads in your block. They can be identified by a dashed circle on the top, but they usually identified by the vendor as dry-seal or level-seal. Just so ya know what NOT to get! Bob
 
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