[pincorpete]

I've got a 20G that originally came with a Kohler M20. I'm in the process of putting a Honda GX690 on the tractor. Does anyone know the distance between the adapter plate and the end of the bevel gear that rides on the crankshaft? I've measured both the Kohler and the Honda and am pretty sure I've got the gear in the same location in front of the adapter plate, but I just want to make sure that I have it shimmed correctly before I bolt it on. Did Gravely ever publish the distance between the plate and the end of the gear? Thanks, Pete

 

[arcam8123]

I've got a 20G that originally came with a Kohler M20. I'm in the process of putting a Honda GX690 on the tractor. Does anyone know the distance between the adapter plate and the end of the bevel gear that rides on the crankshaft? I've measured both the Kohler and the Honda and am pretty sure I've got the gear in the same location in front of the adapter plate, but I just want to make sure that I have it shimmed correctly before I bolt it on. Did Gravely ever publish the distance between the plate and the end of the gear? Thanks, Pete

That's a big Gravely "mystery" measurement. The gear is shimmed for each tractor. You have to measure your old gear placement and match it to your new one. How gravely did this at the factory is the big mystery. Good luck.

 

[Fla Don]

If you use the same adapter plate as it had, you keep the same 2 thrust washers and thrust bearing. There were three combinations used. 2 thin and a thrust bearing. 2 thick and a thrust bearing. 1 thin, 1 thick, and a thrust bearing. All 800s/8000s used the 2 .060"s. The -G series is where things changed. 14 HP used 2 .123" washers. 16/18/20 HP Kohler twins used 2 .123" with no gasket.

 

[pincorpete]

Thanks Don. So it looks like I'll need two .060" thrust washers. Looks like when you use a specific adapter plate (early Kohler 19HP in my case), you also need to use the same number and thickness of thrust washers that correspond to that adapter. Good deal! Hopefully, I'll be firing it up tomorrow if all else goes well.

 

[NeoCole]

What Model GX690 did you use? I finally got some $$$ to replace the engine on my 8199 KT. I have the adapter plate and washers set aside. I see on SmallEngineWarehouse they have a GX690TDW, but they're trying to tell me that the adpater plate won't fit the engine.

 

[Mickeymotormount]

Sounds like Bruce's fort'e . I'm sure he will be chiming in soon with some insights.

 

[gravelymay]

What Model GX690 did you use? I finally got some $$$ to replace the engine on my 8199 KT. I have the adapter plate and washers set aside. I see on SmallEngineWarehouse they have a GX690TDW, but they're trying to tell me that the adpater plate won't fit the engine.

If you use the same adapter that came with your transmission.
and also the same Bearing and thrush washers.

If the adapter plate is 32164 the Thin adapter ,
It will fit .
You have a .063 space between Engine and adapter.

So what I used is a piece of Neoprene.
That way it could squeeze in and seal up.

The adapter in the pictures is a large counter bore from a 16 HP Briggs.
The 32164 don't need a spacer ring because it is a small counter bore

 

[gravelymay]

Use the same thickness bearing as was in the transmission
The thickness of the thrush washer sets where the bevel gear fits inside.

 

[gravelymay]

Well I redid the print for the ring so all you need is a gasket 15718 .
Same gasket used on the 8 hp Kohler walk behind.
15718 Gasket engine to adapter 8 Hp.

Also made some flanges to fit the exhaust port.
I had 1 inch nipples welded in some .
They will fit 1 inch water pipe

 

[Richard-tx]

That's a big Gravely "mystery" measurement. The gear is shimmed for each tractor. You have to measure your old gear placement and match it to your new one. How gravely did this at the factory is the big mystery. Good luck.

I have seen all manner of various thrust washers used on tractors even in the 8000 series. There seems to be no one "right" answer.

Ron is correct. Measure what you have and match it. Use the gear that was used with the transmission. Don't swap engine gears around. That can lead to noise issues.

 

[gravelymay]

I agree keep the adapter and thrust bearing and washer together
with the transmission they came out of.
But when you re power a tractor that has the adapter built on the engine.
be very careful about the distance the gear goes into the Trans.
MAKE IT THE SAME AS WHAT CAME OUT.

The spacer ring I changed so a gasket can be used.
This makes the 12 Kohler and 16 Hp Briggs 20555 Adapters usable .
on most Later engines .


I believe a 1.1/8 X 1.X 3. sleeve with a 1/4 slot cut 1.5 long in the end.
Could be used to go on a 1. inch crank.

Use a 1/4 X 5/16 X 1. in long Key.

I have never tried it but am thinking about it.

If it work we could use the lower powered engines.
you would still need a engine with a 3/3/4 long crank.

Just Thinking again

 

[Richard-tx]

Measuring the amount of depth isn't difficult nor is there a lot of precision involved. A dial caliper with a depth measuring base is likely close enough.

 

[gravelymay]

Here is a idea on getting the taper hub to come off .
Worked today for me.
I put a support under the hub took a hammer
and hit on top rowed over and hit a couple
more times and it slid right off :thThumbsU

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Bruce-

I'm just jealous of the lift table. That is the way to work on Gravelys.

 

[arcam8123]

I'll try that method next time.

 

[gravelymay]

If you use the same adapter that came with your transmission.
and also the same Bearing and thrush washers.

If the adapter plate is 32164 the Thin adapter ,
It will fit .
You have a .063 space between Engine and adapter.

So what I used is a piece of Neoprene.
That way it could squeeze in and seal up.

The adapter in the pictures is a large counter bore from a 16 HP Briggs.
The 32164 don't need a spacer ring because it is a small counter bore

Here is a new Idea on the GR009 with lip.

 

[Ackley280]

Hi Pete,

I too have a 20G with a toasted M20. After conversing with Bruce Guthrie this morning, I pulled the trigger on a Honda GX690. Was glad to see your thread here.

Would you be willing to share your insight into the project, having already traveled this road? Any tips/tricks/advice regarding your approach to the mounting plate, exhaust, etc. would be great. I ordered the Honda key switch and wiring harness as well, so that part should be fairly straightforward.

Thanks!

Matt

 

[Richard-tx]

I fail to see the need for a spacer ring at all. If the plate bolts to the engine and contacts the engine block properly, why have a spacer? Can someone explain that to me?

 

[Richard-tx]

I ordered the Honda key switch and wiring harness as well, so that part should be fairly straightforward.

Thanks!

Matt

You don't need the Honda key switch. The original Gravely switch and electrics will work just fine. If you are going from a magneto to coil or vice versa, a small wiring change at the relay under the hood will be needed but that about it. For details see the 24G and/or 16-20G electrical diagrams. The 24G has a coil ignition and the 16G has a magneto.

As far as the charging system goes, I would connect the Honda stator leads to the Gravely supplied regulator.

 

[Antarctica]

I fail to see the need for a spacer ring at all. If the plate bolts to the engine and contacts the engine block properly, why have a spacer? Can someone explain that to me?

The spacer compensates the longer shaft length of the new motor.