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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 that floods. The same thing happened last winter so the carb was rebuilt and all was good till yesterday. I warmed up the tractor and ran it for a while and it stalled. I pulled the sleeve from the air tube from the air cleaner off and gas came pouring out just like last winter. I put some gas antifreeze in the tank thinking the float was iced open but gas still comes out when cranking. Any ideas? I am going to pull the plugs out and dry them off and hit the carb with some heat and see what happens. The snow is coming so I need it running asap. I read another thread on this forum and the guy said he replaced the coil and that fixed his problem but I don't see the connection with the carb problems.
 

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A grain of sand or a tiny flake of rust could have gotten in between needle and seat causing carb to flood. Are you using only the fuel strainer under the tank for a filter. If so I'd suggest installing an in-line fuel filter. Sometimes tapping gently on the side of carb will dislodge the foreign object.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya it's just the screen above the bowl. Not much room in there to put a filter. But it sounds like good advice. I am going to pull the plugs and dry them out and bang on the float bowl a little. I am hoping it's just ice in there. When it happened last year I had it apart and cleaned and set the float level but it didn't help. All the guts are new now, it just puzzles me that it happens only when it gets cold out. It just has to be ice. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I charged the battery as it died , changed plugs and banged on the float bowl and tried to start it again. It popped right off and the stalled and once again gas poured out of the intake. I am going to pull the carb off AGAIN for the ninth time and hope not to tear the gasket and see what is going on. If I don't find anything I don't know what to do but shovel snow this winter! By the way this only happens when it's cold out, I'm stumped
 

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I have a 2010 that floods.
That tractor should never sit when not running with the gas valve left turned "on." That because you've got a gravity feed gas tank sitting over the engine.
Engines with low tanks and engine-mounted fuel pumps don't have the problem.

That being said, it you rebuilt the carb and used a Viton-tipped inlet needle instead of the standard steel needle, it will be less prone to leaking. That system will also work much better if you install a good in-line fuel filter.

When the 2010 was new, it had two filters. One is the screen in the sediment bowl and the other attached to the inlet fitting in the carb. Neither one may be working anymore if they've been cleaned many times. The carb filter often gets torn off, and the screen in the sediment bowl ONLY works when the correct gasket is in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The carb stopped dumping gas out the intake, and yes the float needle was of the rubber type. The one that it replaced was also. The bowl screen was replaced last winter and the inlet screen is there and in good shape as far as I can tell. I replaced the plugs cause they were all carbon and checked the spark plugs for spark and #3 had none. Also 1 and 2 were weak. I decided after filing the points that they should be replaced, Coil too just because. Of course they gave me the wrong ones, so I will get the right ones tomorrow. The replacement plug wires they sold me were very cheap. I was supposed to assemble and bend the plug side connector myself around the end of the plug tit. What a joke. I should have looked at them first. Gonna get some better ones. Once I get it back together and set the timing we will see what happens. I always shut off the gas because the bowl gasket drips a bit, and I will get a filter on it as soon as I can get it going again. What I was told is the point gap is .22, plug gap .25 and timing 10 degrees btdc, sound right? One more question, does this tractor have a ballast resistor? I seen a small ceramic deal on the back of the ignition switch. Is that it?. The reason I am asking is the guy at the parts store asked me if I needed a coil with or without a resistor. I didn't know. He said it didn't need one finally. Maybe it has nothing to do with one another.
 

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I decided after filing the points that they should be replaced, Coil too just because. Of course they gave me the wrong ones, so I will get the right ones tomorrow.

What I was told is the point gap is .22, plug gap .25 and timing 10 degrees btdc, sound right? One more question, does this tractor have a ballast resistor? I seen a small ceramic deal on the back of the ignition switch. Is that it?
I would not trust anything the person at the parts store tells you.

The 2010 gas came with three different ignition systems and parts differ for all. The distributor can be Wico, Prestolite, or Delco. You only get correct parts when you correctly ID what you have.

2010 came new with a 6 volt coil regardless of what make system. Also came with a ballast resistor built into the ignition switch. When you turn the key to "crank" it automatically bypasses that resistor and sends a full 9-10 volts to the coil. All 12 volt systems crank at 9-10 volts. When running the resistor drops down voltage to the coil to around 8 volts. If the resistor was not there, the running voltage to the coil would be 13 - 14 volts.

Note that when the original IGN switches went bad, Deere sold new switches that used separate resistors that got remotely mounted.

Your 2010 with the 12 volt system uses the same 6 volt coil the older 6 volt Deere tractors use. Any generic coil sold for "12 volt with external resistor" IS a 6 volt coil.

Points for all get set at .022". Plugs .025" Timing is TDC when cranking and 26 degrees advance when running full RPM.
 

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Wow! A whole lot of great information here. Don't know if this might help, too, but I've had the same problem with a Ford 800. I found I could eliminate the flooding problem if I opened the throttle 1/4 to 1/3 when cranking. Seemed with the throttle almost closed, it was drawing too much fuel, thus the severe flooding. Good luck.
Duane
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, so I put plugs, new plug wires, coil and points on the tractor because they looked shot, especially the points. I found the field wire on the generator was shorted out, so that fixed the battery drain/ charging/ problem. Now the tractor runs great for 1/2 hour and then bogs down and wants to stall. I let it idle for a short time and it's fine for a while. It seems the longer it runs the more it wants to stall. seems to be starving for gas? No black smoke. I checked the filter going into the carb and it's clean. The gas is 93 octane and I put a bottle of antifreeze in the tank seeing it's cold out. The **** thing ran all summer just fine and now when it's cold out it runs like crap! Is there something I am missing? Only thing I can figure is there is something in the load jet starving the gas? It seems no matter where the low and fast jets are adjusted it does the same thing. It spits and sputters so I let off the throttle and it catches up again and runs good for a short period and wants to stall again. Anybody have an idea? I think I'll take the carb off AGAIN and see whats inside. maybe some junk? any ideas?
 

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Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and see if you get a good full flow from the tank. If you do, then check the strainer in the elbow carburetor fitting. If that is clean, remove the carburetor and check float for proper adjustment and freedom of movement. If that is good, a jet or passageway in carburetor body may be clogged.
 
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