[Dave Shaver]

Hi all,

Well, was servicing my 2010 the other day and when I greased the rear axle grease was coming out where it ain't suppose to....:tango_face_surprise

I don't know what it takes to replace but I'm really not going to pull the tranny apart to do it. SOOO, I ordered two locking collars from McMaster-Carr, (if they don't have it you probably don't need it, great company!) and you can see in my pics the crack and the collars in place.

Guess my question is do you think it will hold or am I just whistling Dixie til it breaks? The hardest job it does is pull a VERY heavy roller, probably over 800 lbs estimated. MY JD's with the hydros DO NOT like to pull it, need a geared tractor to do the job. I have a line on a geared 7112 with hi lo and thought it may be an upgrade if you guys think think the collar thing ain't gonna work.

Opinions appreciated and thanks!

 

[Junky]

It certainly is worth a try. Id say it all depends how deep that crack goes whether it would last or not.

 

[Dave Shaver]

The crack has mitigated about 40% from the outside in towards the trans diagonally.

Thanks for the reply Junky.

 

[Junky]

That would severely weaken the axle. Maybe a tight fitting thick walled pipe with set screws fitted over all of the exposed surface would brace it a little better? Other than that its replacing the axle. Good luck on that.

 

[Tractor-Holic]

Maybe a shaft coupler like this one will let it last a bit longer..?..
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Concentric-International/1-Shaft-Coupler-1-1563-E.axd

 

[Dee_Veloper]

As others have said, it depends on how bad the crack is. For what it's worth, I have a similar problem on my tractor which also has a cracked axle tube. I bought a similar collar from McMaster Carr and it has held for the last 9 years.

 

[Dave Shaver]

Junky and Tractor -holic,

I think the idea of a tube over it would still allow movement. And, that shaft coupler might work but the axle mics at 1 11/16" and they don't show one with that exact ID.

 

[Dave Shaver]

Dee Veloper,

That's what I was hoping to hear. Someone else that did the same thing and it has lasted 9 yrs! Great!:bannana:

Thanks to all you guys for your thoughts. This forum has a lot of people with great ideas and I greatly appreciate it! Maybe we'll get some more opinions......

 

[mopar65pa]

drill a hole "1/8" at each end of the crack as deep as the crack, grind a "V" in the crack not too deep. Then weld it and put your sleeve or whatever you choose over it. :tango_face_smile_bi

 

[Dave Shaver]

Hi Mopar,

Well, I thought about that and even just stop drill the crack without welding. My gut feeling was that with all the grease that's in that axle tube it would be a big problem trying to weld it. I do have a small wire welder which might do it but the idea of the crack getting contamination from the grease stopped me on that one.

 

[mopar65pa]

Hi Mopar,

Well, I thought about that and even just stop drill the crack without welding. My gut feeling was that with all the grease that's in that axle tube it would be a big problem trying to weld it. I do have a small wire welder which might do it but the idea of the crack getting contamination from the grease stopped me on that one.

Wipe it down with alcohol or Acetone, do not use brake clean! (brake clean when heated and burnt will kill you) Let it run in the cracks. Grind it wipe it again with alcohol and weld on the highest setting you have.

I'm not sure what you have for a welder but if it's anything like my little Campbell Hausfield it may do the trick. I personally have a miller 210 mig that will weld anything.

Here's the thing, it is tempered steel. You need to "spot weld it" HOT for 2 seconds and burn that weld in, then let it cool for 5 mins. If you over heat it it will lose the "temperment" then it will bend and warp under pressure. :tango_face_crying:

just trying to help man! :tango_face_smile_bi

 

[Dee_Veloper]

On mine, I removed the grease zerk and replaced it with a set screw so I could get the collar directly over the crack.

 

[arathol]

Welding is not really an option. There is a bronze bearing sleeve inside that might not take to kindly to that.

Keep in mind that not only does the tube have to move but the axle shaft has to turn freely inside it. You can clamp it up and it might work but if you are going to be puling an 800 lb roller its probably going to get worse regardless. The clamp will keep the crack closed but the torque from pulling a heavy load will still twist the axle and the crack will grow.

Best bet for easy repair is find another working gear box. A new or refurbished axle tube - if you can find one -will most likely cost almost as much as the entire used transmission and its a not a simple thing to replace it in any case. I have one in the garage waiting to be rebuilt right now...

 

[Dave Shaver]

Mopar,

I'm not much of a welder anyway. I get penetration (I think) but make them pretty with a mini grinder.....:tango_face_surprise But I do appreciate the info.

Yeah I agree Arathol,

I only pull that roller once a year in early spring on my 3/4 acre rolling lot. I guess we will have to see what happens. That 7112 I was thinking of looking at is going to have issues I wouldn't know where I have had this 2010 since 1987. It's like an old buddy.

Dee Veloper,

I thought about that but my brain could't think of a way to plug the hole.:fing20: Set screw would do it. Maybe I'll order another collar and do this.

Thanks to everybody!!!

 

[Hydronerd]

I suggest taking it to a welder, for patch up welding. Should be only $50 or so. Even a bit of weld on surface without grinding would be stronger than collars. Do it quickly to keep heat down. I've stick welded cracked hydraulic cylinders with oil in them using 6010 for first pass. Looks like chicken poop, but it seals it, then grind and 7018, if you like (ports have to be open on cylinders). If one option is to get new rear end why not try welding first.

 

[Dave Shaver]

Thanks Hydronerd,

I have a guy who could weld it for me. I did find a 2010 that is not running and it sounds like the guy just want to get rid of it. Hummm, maybe I'll give him a call. I pulled the rear on my 345 in the past to exchange, this one shouldn't be any worst than that.......:dunno:

 

[Dave Shaver]

Hey guys,

This looks like the tube I need.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Simplicity...880776&hash=item2a284d929c:g:bmQAAOxy~iJQ-TEv

Is it as simple as pulling the right wheel and sliding on?

Thanks again

 

[Junky]

If you knew a machinist they could grind a bit undersized tube to an exact fit for you. The tighter the fit the better.

 

[arathol]

Hey guys,

This looks like the tube I need.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Simplicity...880776&hash=item2a284d929c:g:bmQAAOxy~iJQ-TEv

Is it as simple as pulling the right wheel and sliding on?

Thanks again

That is an internal transmission part. Its the spacer that goes between the large drive gear and the bearing on the left side of the case. You can see it here on the left side of the gear on the old tube.

Sliding this over the crack will accomplish nothing except to hide the problem....

 

[Dee_Veloper]

To use that spacer you would need to cut it lengthwise and weld on some nuts to bolt it back together.

If you're looking for something longer, maybe this would work for you.

https://www.aa-mfg.com/product/4-bolt-clamp-2/

I believe the tube is 1 3/4 in diam so it should fit.