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Thank You MTF
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Discussion Starter #1
When I am mowing I need to literally hit the brakes or plan my stop because the tractor keeps rolling after I let off the pedal. I do not think this is normal, does any know what might cause it?
 

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Either Shock Absorber
Part Number M808782 or linkage
 

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Thank You MTF
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Discussion Starter #3
Either Shock Absorber

Part Number M808782 or linkage
Thank you I will look into that.

I don't know if it is rates but the release rod at the back of the tractor does not release the trans so it freewheels either.

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Thank you I will look into that.

I don't know if it is rates but the release rod at the back of the tractor does not release the trans so it freewheels either.

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Is the release rod still attached to the lever that's goes down into the transmission? Has it broke off or unattached?
 

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Sounds like you may have a linkage issue but if it is your shock, read the second to last post in this thread before you buy one https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/1314359-gx345-pedals-sticking-when-cold-2.html
I’d also check the linkage first with what we know about the freewheeling bar.

That said, the $30 shock is compelling enough that you should buy one as I’m wondering if a previous owner may have messed with the linkage thinking abrupt stopping was caused by something there rather than the shock (and they may not have wanted to spend the money on the Deere shock).
 

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Thank You MTF
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Discussion Starter #8
I’d also check the linkage first with what we know about the freewheeling bar.



That said, the $30 shock is compelling enough that you should buy one as I’m wondering if a previous owner may have messed with the linkage thinking abrupt stopping was caused by something there rather than the shock (and they may not have wanted to spend the money on the Deere shock).
LoL - already ordered! Could not find for $30 though ... it was $38.95.

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You always question the prices at a John Deere dealer on their parts. Also, any sub-website selling John Deere parts. J. Deere probably has a secret selling plan to all that sells their parts, that 'no one" is to sell a part lower than such price what Deere has set forth.

As denverguy mentioned, you have to question where there is a "exact" part someone is selling that will work. A big difference is $140.00 for Deere part and $38.95 another lawn tractor part will work.
 

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You always question the prices at a John Deere dealer on their parts. Also, any sub-website selling John Deere parts. J. Deere probably has a secret selling plan to all that sells their parts, that 'no one" is to sell a part lower than such price what Deere has set forth.

As denverguy mentioned, you have to question where there is a "exact" part someone is selling that will work. A big difference is $140.00 for Deere part and $38.95 another lawn tractor part will work.
The difference is one is in a JD box and the other directly from the manufacturer that supplies it per JD’s spec. It could also be counterfeit, but even if that’s the case, it seems plenty of people have had good luck with it. For $100 savings, it’s worth the gamble.
 

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I found this interesting because I've had this with my K66 (very similiar to your K71/K72). A simple problem with a little time.

This sounds like the problem "creeps in neutral".

If when you experience the creep, you apply some reverse pedal input just to see if it stops and then stays stopped, then this is an indicator of creep. (you are manually returning the control lever to neutral)

When you start the tractor, if you have not applied control, will it stay, or creep?

Have you lost power in one or both directions? If no, its most likely creep.

Three categories that can cause creep,

1) Speed control linkage, bent, or obstructed by built up debris.

2) The actual lever on the transaxle or roll pin being loose or damaged, play.

3) Internal failure of the transaxle.

Of these three, the first one is most common and one that I have had. Even a bad nylon bushing can contribute to creep, or grass clippings built up around the control arm.

The PDF is Tuff Torq's Trouble Shooting Guide to their transaxles.

Because your chassis is a very strong chassis, I doubt you have any flex or horizontal torsion from front to back when on extreme uneven terrain, so ruling this out as a culprit to common grass cutter chassis's, I would look from your pedals to the control rod, to the transaxle for anything that is damaged, loose, alignment issues, or binding on the return of the control rod. I believe you will find your answer there.

You can rule out the shock by disconnecting it, just for the purpose of ruling it out. The shock was designed to dampen the response from motion to stop. (customer concerns on a stopping jolt or abrupt harsh stop caused the addition of the shock according to Tuff Torq)

I hope this helps.

:tango_face_smile:
 

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Thank You MTF
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Discussion Starter #13
I found this interesting because I've had this with my K66 (very similiar to your K71/K72). A simple problem with a little time.



This sounds like the problem "creeps in neutral".



If when you experience the creep, you apply some reverse pedal input just to see if it stops and then stays stopped, then this is an indicator of creep. (you are manually returning the control lever to neutral)



When you start the tractor, if you have not applied control, will it stay, or creep?



Have you lost power in one or both directions? If no, its most likely creep.



Three categories that can cause creep,



1) Speed control linkage, bent, or obstructed by built up debris.



2) The actual lever on the transaxle or roll pin being loose or damaged, play.



3) Internal failure of the transaxle.



Of these three, the first one is most common and one that I have had. Even a bad nylon bushing can contribute to creep, or grass clippings built up around the control arm.



The PDF is Tuff Torq's Trouble Shooting Guide to their transaxles.



Because your chassis is a very strong chassis, I doubt you have any flex or horizontal torsion from front to back when on extreme uneven terrain, so ruling this out as a culprit to common grass cutter chassis's, I would look from your pedals to the control rod, to the transaxle for anything that is damaged, loose, alignment issues, or binding on the return of the control rod. I believe you will find your answer there.



You can rule out the shock by disconnecting it, just for the purpose of ruling it out. The shock was designed to dampen the response from motion to stop. (customer concerns on a stopping jolt or abrupt harsh stop caused the addition of the shock according to Tuff Torq)



I hope this helps.



:tango_face_smile:
Excellent info!

I haven't noticed creep at a stop I will do some test driving and see what I find.

Thank you for the very informative reply!

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I've had several pedal-operated JD's with similar issues. I took some WD 40 with the red tube on it and squirted it in all of the places that the linkage went through while working the pedals. That cured everyone that I had with the no stop problem. The sudden stop issue is just a bad shock and either live with it or buy a replacement.
 

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BLAZER JEFF SPOKANE WA.
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When I am mowing I need to literally hit the brakes or plan my stop because the tractor keeps rolling after I let off the pedal. I do not think this is normal, does any know what might cause it?
try lubricating your pedals , under the tractor where the bushings are
 

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Sometimes the metal bar for the forward pedal will rub on the rubber mat (where the bar goes through the foot rest).

That can cause the forward pedal to not come all the way back up when you remove your foot.

If it is rubbing, then you can cut away 1/2 inch of the mat.
 

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Thank You MTF
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Discussion Starter #17
Well I think I figured out that there isn't anything wrong with it. I think the absorber actually works in my 2005 whereas it does not in my 2003. That is likely the difference I am noticing.
 

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I've had several pedal-operated JD's with similar issues. I took some WD 40 with the red tube on it and squirted it in all of the places that the linkage went through while working the pedals. That cured everyone that I had with the no stop problem. The sudden stop issue is just a bad shock and either live with it or buy a replacement.
Had to buy a replacement !! ( X320) Reverse jolt would almost throw me out of the seat :tango_face_surprise ALSO not a good selling point !!

The forward and reverse adjustment is very sensitive, I turned it too far and it wouldn't stop at all!!
 

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There is a readily accessible adjuster on the trans to adj out any creep if it's not a shock or linkage issue. The good thing about GXs is that it's easy to remove the fenderdeck and footrest and have all the linkage still in place so you can check for problems.
 

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Thank You MTF
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Discussion Starter #20
There is a readily accessible adjuster on the trans to adj out any creep if it's not a shock or linkage issue. The good thing about GXs is that it's easy to remove the fenderdeck and footrest and have all the linkage still in place so you can check for problems.
Yes it is!
 
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