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Definitely a common problem on the older ones. What happens is the plastic that slides down into the aluminum carburetor starts to swell up as it gets older and it sticks in the holes. It sits in a recessed hole in the bottom and of course around the top where it slides through and both areas get kind of fat and prevent the plastic from flipping back and forth with a spring pressure. Just take the air filter housing off pull the brass choke plate straight out from the front with needle-nose pliers then you can lift the choke rod right up. Be careful with the linkage or take that off first. I use some medium grit sandpaper to sand down the plastic at the bottom and around the top where it will fit into the hole. Once you test it and it has plenty of clearance to spend freely lube it with some spray grease and put it back on and tension the spring the proper turn around. This always solves the problem of sticking chokes for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I worked on the choke today. I took the shaft out, sanded it until it was free and put it back in. When I pushed the butterfly in it tightened up again so I gave it another round of sanding. It seems to be working good now. I've heard of Husky/Poulan chainsaw fuel caps swelling up but it didn't occur to me that a choke shaft would do that. I couldn't get the kill circuit to work again today. I removed the switch and with the key in the off position there was no continuity between the G and M pins. I decided I would take it apart and see what was inside but when I opened it up crap flew everywhere. If this tractor had the old stile mounting hole I would adapt a metal switch but the plastic switches are cheap so I guess I'll buy the right one.
Cannon
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The switch arrived yesterday and that fixed the issue with the kill wire. I need to repair a little more wiring to be sure the battery is changing.
Cannon
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yesterday I finished hooking up the charging circuit,
Put a tube in one front tire that was flat again.
Replaced the two small bushings on the drag Link,
And put the hood back on.
This morning I drove it to the mailbox and back and check to be sure it was charging. The transmission seemed stiff but loosened up in the 2 minutes I drove it, all the gears work. I have a black 20hp flywheel cover (no air filter cover) I may have to put on it but I'm going to look around for a the correct one. I still need to go through the deck and see whats wrong with it.
Cannon
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I worked on the deck a while this morning. I spray lubed all the moving parts, used a grease needle to add grease to the idler bearings and replaced the spindle brake pads. I turned the deck over and removed the blades to sharpen them and found that the stars on the spindles are completely ruined. It'll need 2 new spindles at least. I do my share of dumb stuff but how do people fail to put the blade on the star before tightening the bolt?
Cannon
 

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I worked on the deck a while this morning. I spray lubed all the moving parts, used a grease needle to add grease to the idler bearings and replaced the spindle brake pads. I turned the deck over and removed the blades to sharpen them and found that the stars on the spindles are completely ruined. It'll need 2 new spindles at least. I do my share of dumb stuff but how do people fail to put the blade on the star before tightening the bolt?
Cannon
Glad to hear you are progressing. I picked up two valve cover gaskets Thursday so I can fix my widow friend’s LT1000. I don’t think anyone has messed with it like the one you have. If I crank it backwards by hand, often I can get it to start and it runs pretty well. After it warms up, it will start normally. I was going to fix it the other day and remembered my grandson was coming in a couple weeks and thought it would be a good learning experience. Repair at the local lawn repair dealer was estimated at $80. Once I saw a couple YouTube videos I decided I could probably fix it and save the widow some money. She has other tractors to use in the meantime. Good luck with the deck.
 

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I worked on the deck a while this morning. I spray lubed all the moving parts, used a grease needle to add grease to the idler bearings and replaced the spindle brake pads. I turned the deck over and removed the blades to sharpen them and found that the stars on the spindles are completely ruined. It'll need 2 new spindles at least. I do my share of dumb stuff but how do people fail to put the blade on the star before tightening the bolt?
Cannon
The deck on the LT1000's are a pain to take off/put back on, so people just jack up the mower and do it from underneath. From there it's real easy to get it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The deck on the LT1000's are a pain to take off/put back on, so people just jack up the mower and do it from underneath. From there it's real easy to get it wrong.
That's probably right. I always remove the decks to clean and lube all the moving parts when I change or sharpen blades.
How's the 1864 coming along.
Cannon
 

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The 1864 sits in the garage while I gather some ambition to replace the head gaskets. The JD 212 is doing the Cub's duties for now. Other projects have taken up my time. :)

I was putting blades on a Troy-Bilt the other day using the jacked-up mower method and realized that I could easily tighten the blade and not get it positioned correctly on the spindle star. I was trying to save some time because I was on the clock to deliver it. On my machines I also remove the deck to replace/sharpen blades.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Today I replaced the spindles in the deck. I had 2 that I had ordered for another deck a few years ago. On that deck the housings were wallowed out and the bearings were loose, I put 2 complete spindle assembles in that one. One of the "Good" rear tires I put on it was low so I tubed it. I had a flywheel cover off a 20 hp that I put on but it didn't have the filter cover. I went to my brothers looking for one, he had 2 engines but both were missing the cover. Apparently the filter cover is the first thing people throw in the garbage.
Cannon
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yesterday I installed and leveled the deck. This morning i went to my brothers to throw some scrap metal on the pile and found one of the missing covers. I come home and put the air filters in it and mowed 45 minutes with it until I got to close to the exposed root of a walnut tree. Glad I hadn't put the new blades on yet. Here's where I'm at on it.
Mower $60
Sump Gasket $10
Switch $10
Steering bushings $5
Spindle shafts $25
Blades $20
Air filters $8
Rear tube $15

Total $153

I'll put the new blades on when they arrive later today and try to keep from mowing lower than 3 inches.
Cannon
 
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