[mej]

Hello all,
I already own an LT155 that I bought new in 2001. Best mower I ever owned.
I love to garden and have been watching Craigslist for a garden tractor to till with and maybe add a blade to. I ran across this one listed for $1500. I paid him $1400 for it yesterday.
It is a 2001 345 with the Kaw 20hp (FD611) engine. It has a broken hood and was told the carb needs work. The hour meter shows 157 hrs on it. I cranked it, mowed with it and all is tight. The steering linkage has no slop in it at all. It ran and mowed great at full throttle. It just would not idle. I took a chance because I know this so called gasoline we get now a days is crap. Tomorrow I will call the dealer and get them to order me some manuals for it.

This morning I pulled the gas tank, replaced all fuel lines, changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter and cleaned and oiled the precleaner. The rubber around the pickup tube in the tank had fallen apart and fell down in the tank.

As I was changing the fuel lines to and from the fuel pump and removed the carb bowl for cleaning, On the bowl I see a nipple where a hose attaches and an adjustment screw. There was no hose attached, but I can see a hose that loops back up to the carb and not hooked any where. The adjustment screw was closed all the way.

1. What is this adjustment screw?
2. If I hook the hose back up what is the starting point to adjust this screw?
3. What is the electrical unit on the bowl and what is it's purpose?
4. Did I do ok on the price?

 

[Harryc]

1. What is this adjustment screw? It's a carb bowl drain screw.
2. If I hook the hose back up what is the starting point to adjust this screw? It is not an adjustment, it is a drain.
3. What is the electrical unit on the bowl and what is it's purpose? Fuel cutoff solenoid. It prevents backfiring on shutdown.
4. Did I do ok on the price? Great!

 

[mej]

Thanks Harry! I would not have thought it was bowl drain screw with a spring and what looks like a jet screwed in to it. So to drain the bowl then I do hot have to remove the bolt on the bottom of the bowl. How about the hose that loops to the top of the carb? I guess I need to unhook it from that nipple at the bowl that I hooked it too and let it hang down again.

How did we ever get along without the internet?

 

[Harryc]

I'd have to take the hood off to get a picture, but I have (3) drain hoses running thru the same hole in the frame under the muffler. One is from the fuel pump and is actually the most important because the old style fuel pumps have been known to spray out gas (onto the hot muffler) when the internal diaphragm ruptures and it can cause a fire. The other (2) drains are from the carb. I know for a fact one is from the bowl drain you mentioned and I 'think' the other is from the top of the carb where you describe it, but again I can't quite see up there without the hood off. The one from the top of the carb was the only original drain I had. I added the other two of them because of my fear of fire. I've invested too much time and money in these machines only to lose one to a fire that could have been avoided. If you can post a pic of your fuel pump one of us can tell you if it is an old or new style.

Edit: I found an old picture....still doesn't show where the uppermost drain hooks into the carb, but you can get the general idea of what is going on with the drain hoses.

 

[DCMKC]

How the heck do you find a 12 year old tractor w/ only 157 hrs. on it, especially in Fla.? Did the PO mow a postage stamp? Good luck w/ the 345. I was torn between a 345 and the 425 I bought. They are both great machines.

 

[mej]

Thanks Harry! I understand it now. I can see all the places the drain hoses come from. I have been reading about the fuel pump issue and have identified the drain tube from it. Mine does not have a drain hose on the bowl drain, but will put one on it. I am hoping that I do not have to pull the carb to clean it. If I do, will I have to pull the radiator and every thing else to remove it?

@DCMKC The elderly gentleman I bought it from is from upstate New York. He moved to Florida 10 yrs ago and lives on a small lot. A few years ago he found out that he is terminally ill. The mower has sat for 2 years hence the fuel problems.

 

[Harryc]

Doesn't say you need to remove the radiator in the tech manual.

1. Place container under bowl drain (G). Open bowl
drain (G) and drain fuel from carburetor.
2. Disconnect hoses (A and B).
3. Remove duct (C).
NOTE: Remove collars (F) in air duct.
4. Disconnect linkage (D and E) and remove
carburetor with gaskets.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
• Tighten caps screws and nuts to 8 N•m (71 lb-in.).

 

[mej]

That sounds easy enough! Thanks a lot Harry! I must find me one of those manuals.

 

[mej]

Been outside messing with it. Definitely running lean. I can remove the air cleaner and partially cover the intake and the engine will pick up more rpms. As the picture below shows one of the bolts is missing on the intake to the carb. I tried to remove the one on the left so that I can match it up to a new bolt, but the bolt just spins and spins while not loosening. What the heck? I hope that plastic part of the carb does not have inserts with threads and that insert is spinning with the bolt. If so, how do I get the thing out? I tried placing a small screw driver in between the pieces and prying gently, but to no avail. I am afraid of gouging that plastic and causing more of a leak. Any ideas? On the parts list on the computer, I do not see any inserts.

Mike

 

[slongholio]

Oh man - search up my thread - I had the exact same problem with the spinning bolt. I ended up cutting it off with a roto zip. The curved piece costs about $10, and the bottom half of the air duct $70. But then I found someone had the air duct piece on e-bay for only $20. And if you have to replace the air duct - then you will also have to remove the radiator first.

My parts are all in - I just have to put everything back together still.

Just for fun - after I got the plastic parts cut out - I tried cutting the head of the bolt off. It still won't come out.

I'm afraid you won't be able to remove the carb without removing that bolt. If you find a way - let me know. Although no one else will be working on my tractor from now on. That is how someone left it for me after charging an arm and two legs to clean the carb.

 

[mej]

That does not sound too promising slongholio. What did you cut with the rotozip?

 

[slongholio]

I cut off the curved piece the bolt is attached to - thinking I might be able to get at it to get it out. No such luck.

Part# for it is M97410. Description is Air Intake Stac. Was about $10. But as I said - it just left me with it still stuck to the bottom piece of the air duct. Still wouldn't come out - even if I beat on it with a hammer. If you order a new air duct piece - it doesn't come with any of the hardware - just the plastic piece.

 

[mej]

I cut off the curved piece the bolt is attached to - thinking I might be able to get at it to get it out. No such luck.

Part# for it is M97410. Description is Air Intake Stac. Was about $10. But as I said - it just left me with it still stuck to the bottom piece of the air duct. Still wouldn't come out - even if I beat on it with a hammer. If you order a new air duct piece - it doesn't come with any of the hardware - just the plastic piece.

Thanks,

Are you saying the elbow that attaches to the carb does not come with any hardware. How about the threaded inserts? Are they in it? Sounds like I am going to have to buy both pieces anyway and remove the radiator to put it all back together. I ran some carb cleaner through the engine today while it was running and it helped, but still not right. Was thinking I would try some seafoam before I tear it all down.

 

[slongholio]

The elbow has a gasket - make sure you get that with it. The bottom half of the air duct part it attaches to doesn't come with hardware. The insert is not threaded. No idea what that bolt could be threaded into - but as we know it will not come out.

 

[mej]

I am looking at an exploded view of the carb here.

http://www.dowdatractor.com/OemPart...01:_FUEL_AND_AIR/24280011/2428E140E0103000011


I see that the carb kit that I am getting comes with that gasket. Dang man! The deeper I dig the deeper in my wallet I have to get. LOL

Thanks for your help!

Mike

 

[mej]

Hey Slongholio.

I got it out today with out tearing up the bottom air duct. The air intake stack (elbow) had a crack in it where the bolt came through. I was able to take a screw driver and pry between the cracked areas and break off enough pieces to get it off the bolt. As you see, there is nut inside the air intake stack. After I got the stack off, placed a pair of vise grips on the nut and turned the bolt and got it off. I removed the carb and have it soaking over night in some carb cleaner. My stack and carb kit is ordered and will be here tomorrow. Not sure that I will be able to put it back together until Thursday due to going out of town for a couple of days.

Thanks for your help,

Mike

 

[mej]

Removed the carb, cleaned it, and put a carb kit in it, new spark plugs, all new fuel hoses including pick up tube and return tube (restrictor) and lines. It runs wide open throttle and idles smooth as silk now. I mowed an acre with it. The St. Augustine grass was about 3" higher than my cutting height. It just seems to not have the power that I thought it should have. I had to mow fairly slow. It has the 54C deck on it. I pulled the plugs and they are a little sooty black around the base, but not bad and not wet. I have pulled the plug wires one at a time and found that both cylinders are working. It has used no oil and does not smoke except at the initial cold crank. Then it only last about 3 seconds. I have read about the valve adjustments on these FD611V engines and I am planning on getting some new valve cover gaskets and checking the clearance. I am also going to pick me a compression tester and do a leak-down check on it. The thought just crossed my mind about the governor being out of adjustment. I kept the settings the same and used a new spring on the linkage that runs from the governor arm to the throttle on the carb.

I wish I had another 345 close by to compare power with mine. Maybe I am over estimating what it should do. Someone tell me about yours. Some one let me know if any thing else, I should take a look at. I also see a red light on the ECM board that is on. I read this just means that the pto is ready for operation. Is that correct?

 

[Harryc]

You need to chech your high speed idle with a tach. Does the engine bog down under load?



Sent from the MTF Free App

 

[mej]

Hey Harry,

Yes it does bog down under load. I checked the service manual on line for adjusting the governor. I did as the manual says and sounds like it is turning more rpms now. My son, daughter in law, and grand kids came over so that was as far as I got. I have a multi-meter with a tach and will hook it up tomorrow and see what it is turning at full throttle. If some of the water goes down on my property, I do have a section I can mow to see if there is any difference.

Thanks Harry,

Mike

 

[Bill S]

Removed the carb, cleaned it, and put a carb kit in it, new spark plugs, all new fuel hoses including pick up tube and return tube (restrictor) and lines. It runs wide open throttle and idles smooth as silk now. I mowed an acre with it. The St. Augustine grass was about 3" higher than my cutting height. It just seems to not have the power that I thought it should have. I had to mow fairly slow. It has the 54C deck on it. I pulled the plugs and they are a little sooty black around the base, but not bad and not wet. I have pulled the plug wires one at a time and found that both cylinders are working. It has used no oil and does not smoke except at the initial cold crank. Then it only last about 3 seconds. I have read about the valve adjustments on these FD611V engines and I am planning on getting some new valve cover gaskets and checking the clearance. I am also going to pick me a compression tester and do a leak-down check on it. The thought just crossed my mind about the governor being out of adjustment. I kept the settings the same and used a new spring on the linkage that runs from the governor arm to the throttle on the carb.

I wish I had another 345 close by to compare power with mine. Maybe I am over estimating what it should do. Someone tell me about yours. Some one let me know if any thing else, I should take a look at. I also see a red light on the ECM board that is on. I read this just means that the pto is ready for operation. Is that correct?

I own a '99 JD345 with a 54" mower. I mow Bermuda grass and if it is 3" taller than the usual level I mow, it will load down the engine somewhat and require me to slow down; however, I think it's more difficult to mow tall thick fertilized Bermuda than St Augustine grass. It also depends a lot on the condition of the mower blades and how much grass/dirt residue has accumulated on underside of the mower deck.

My 345 will NOT mow tall Bermuda grass at the speed of my 2012 JD Z655 zero turn mower with a 54" high capacity mower deck.

Bill