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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Forum,

Family has passed this neat machine over to me a couple years ago. It was placed into my garage, took the shroud off, & then it sat...Ha! The SRX series was some of JD's top RER's of the era. They had been evolving these things since at least early 70's.

My assumption of the SR meaning maybe "Small Residential"? X Not sure & 75 indicating it had 9 HP Kawasaki. I had a MTD RER once & this 75 is twice the mower. I found it interesting that under $2,000 was transferred to the local JD Dealership for this little gem back in 94'...no small change there. They ran this machine, over 20 years, until it just wouldn't run (start) anymore. So, This has some sentimental value regardless & had to get to it to see what needed done. It is in need of some things...

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Ha ha I had to use a 30" RER to mow 4 acres. Talk about taking 2 days! Of course it was a 70's version with a single briggs 8hp. I hated that thing. When we got the 110 round fender with the 38" deck I was a happy kid.

Good luck with it.
 

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I'll never get to 10,000
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Good luck with it. We had a 56 RER mowing 2+ acres. Those 75s come from a good lineage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
wow, that's some mowing guys! Don't feel bad... This mower had the duty of at least 1.5 acres! These may not be comfortable but they can give good service if worked.

Found a few of the removed bolts/nuts in my HF magnet tray. Needed to start cleaning this thing as much as possible, on the upper portion at least, so I could start working on it. So, I busted out the best tool I have available... my wife. Found a spray bottle, loaded it w/soapy water, shop rags, Q-Tips, & we got busy cleaning.

Here's a few more before photos. The battery acid has eaten away a good chunk of paint around the battery spot, & the rear end is leaking a bit. I'll power wash the deck, wheels, etc later though. I really don't know what shape the transmission is in.

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Took off the motor cover to check out ignition coil. It was rusted to the flywheel. The rubber hose coming out of the valve housing on the bottom right is dry rotted.

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Removed the starter for examination.. I remember cranking it over when I first got this machine so I knew it worked. I'll clean it up & reuse it. Believe it or not we actually cleaned a lot of junk off of the mower.. There's a lot of it!

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Discussion Starter #5
Took some more parts loose on the side w/ all the electrical for cleaning & gave me a lesson of how it (electrical) ticked.

Starter Solenoid

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Jacked it up & took the flat tire off. Drained the oil..it was dark complected.

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The spiky crowned part next to the funnel is the voltage regulator.

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Tire shop suggested a tube to inflate the tire.. $9 later I was on my way. I can't believe this is the front tire. It looks a lot bigger when its off.

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Tire mounted & still cleaning.

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, overall It was kept in their garage.. the mower doesn't seem to be sun faded too much.

went a little wild on dielectric grease on all electric connections after I clean/sanded them. Blew away any debrit w/air hose.

Relay Switch

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Still cleaning

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Started painting a bit



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Had to cover the ID Sticker. Woop's...I hit the tire.. this can of paint spray's out like a fire extinguisher.

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We missed some spots while cleaning & the flash on the camera seems to find the dirt... That's my excuse ?

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Lot's of scratches around the foot area that got some paint.

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Discussion Starter #8
Checked valves.. Exhaust (bottom) within spec (0.15 mm) but the Intake Valve was 0.58 mm so readjusted that to 0.15 mm also.

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Wrong or right I used a wheel to remove rust off flywheel. I did it gently & it cleaned up good.

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Took the battery out of my craftsman. This Super Start Battery is like 350 CCA but the JD only needs 200 CCA & 280 CCA below freezing. Put some 5w-30 conv. oil in it that I had on the shelf but I'll switch to FS 10w-30 later. Heck w/any weight with this battery this thing should spin up no problem.

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New Plug Champion RN11YC4

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BITOG forum is got me busting open all sorts of filters. Here's the fuel & air filter's. I'm 100% confident these were original.

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Lot's of white sand type stuff in fuel filter. Here's the old filter next to a new Stens.

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MAN! YUCK on that filter. Have you pulled the carb yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Good thing you didn't just try to "crank her up" without checking things, that filter was an accident waiting to happen!
It would've never started..ha ha. This thing was getting no fuel or air! Thanks for your response.

MAN! YUCK on that filter. Have you pulled the carb yet?
Yes Friend, JD wanted $160 so went the china route for $41 & the only difference I see is fuel drain screw placement. Oh, & a whole lot cleaner looking. The old carb was all corroded. Here you go!

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Cleaned up & re used the fuel shut off valve

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Painted some parts while they were off

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Picked up a china coil & igniter from eBay. Here's my post on the Amazon

I needed 0.30 mm air gap but this coil would not allow for that close of range. When pushed all the way towards the flywheel it would go no closer than about 0.60 mm (too much gap). What I did to fix this issue was gently drilled out the holes a bit & voila... I got my OEM Spec 0.30 mm air gap.

On a side note: I seen a question asked about if an igniter is needed as some coils incorporate the igniter inside the coil now. For my 1994 JD SRX75 9 HP Kawasaki I needed to use the igniter as without it did not want to Spark. Plugged in my igniter & got spark (the igniter is a little electric box on side of motor, not ignition coil but they work together) You may or may not have one on your motor.

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Front Left wheel is pointing NW when the steering wheel is straight. Replaced the spindle w/a used one online but didn't fix the issue. Thinking it's the drag link now.

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tierod bar is bent you can see it in the straight on pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
tierod bar is bent you can see it in the straight on pic.
I replaced the whole black part that the wheel slides onto. I checked the link attached to the steering gear & it looks straight when I eye ball it (is this what your referring to?). The drag link (the bar that goes from one wheel to the other wheel) is what I'm thinking is bent (It's the only bar that controls both wheels).


3 new carb gaskets & 1 NOS breather hose? (rubber hose above carb)

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Yes the bar that goes from one wheel to the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes the bar that goes from one wheel to the other.
Ok, I'll have to pause on this part until I can afford a new one.

Got everything put together including the engine shroud w/gas tank (no pic). Started cranking & no start lol. Checked fuel lines & the shut off valve has a steady drip (gas leak). Well, JD wants $30 for this part so it's Another part that will have to wait & I have minor surgery Monday. We'll post back w/any new activity.

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I find it interesting how little this model/style change from 1979 (my restoration effort) to your 1994. Keep up the good work!

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tierod bar is bent you can see it in the straight on pic.
How about just spreading it until the wheels look straight? It won't cost anything to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I find it interesting how little this model/style change from 1979 (my restoration effort) to your 1994. Keep up the good work!
Boss Man!! I've seen many pics of those 68's but none that clean! wow I really like those engine covers over the top of the motor. Is that grass chute something you fabbed up? any build post you can link me to?

How about just spreading it until the wheels look straight? It won't cost anything to try.
Great idea! Why didn't I think of that..Ha! May just try to pull on it but it would be better if I could rig up a simple ratchet strap to "pull" on it a bit.

that's what I was gonna say.
Don't they say Great minds think alike... ? (fist bump)
 
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