[Wolf44]

On my 2nd 318...... but now troubleshooting a grinding metallic issue with the clutch 'plate' and ???? Dad and I just took it all off due to a very loud - bearing with sand in it grinding sound coming from the front PTO/CL area.......

Was a Rock found inside, but even still, with the belt on and Gapped correctly, I still have the grinding sound. constant screeching. Its steady, not like a warped sound

The bearing was fine, the mag plate held a bolt/socket easily when engaged.........??? Dad's like it seems the plate that covers stuff needs to be further away vs being pulled closer. The surfaces seemed flat

When its gapped further out and doesn't engage right,, it is quiet and sounds great. Like my former 1987 318

Compression was 126 / 122 roughly, so I can only hope this is a good unit that replaced my LX 178, sadly i sold my 1987 318 due to dealer advice.

When the tractor is off and we take the belt off and turn PTO by hand, you can hear it grind/scratch against the Rotor.....Dad felt it should turn freely without issue, but can't when gapped to .018

ANYONE in Minnesota ????????

What are we missing ?? this doesn't sound like my 1987 and just can't be good for the back of the rotor , or normal to us...

spent plenty on this one with 800+ hours, and a ..... for a paint resto..... but ...... hummmmm

Dad loves his x739 and wanted me to go newer, but I like Old School.....and wanted my former 318. Just hope I didn't get hosed.

 

[Smalljob]

When gapped at .018 you can turn it but not easily.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wolf44]

Correct, you can "hear'' metal on metal. Its not overly easy to rotate the pulley/assembly, which when running w/o pto engaged it sounds like constant metal on metal....

Everything bearing wise et al looked ok, magnet strength held bolt et al......??? Dad kept saying and i agree its like we're missing a spacer or the key is just too long.

at proper gap. backing it out to .040 or more and its quiet or quieter.

On a secondary Note at PROPER GAP: at bottom idle, PTO will engage and engine happy. anything between low idle and 1/2 throttle it will stumble and kill.

#$^$%^&

hummm

 

[Wolf44]

Some persons have commented that certain years or engines had a 'bushing' installed at the block on the CShaft....... prior to the assembly ???

Unsure that would solve anything but? anyone have any idea on that part.

Also - could the key be too long ? I need to find a schematic or ? on the proper length for that thing, we checked the channel et al for debris, cleaned all of it and reinstalled.

 

[RussKish]

Here is the info on the key:

9.52mm X 9.52mm X 25mm, (CUT FROM 10' H64376) (SUB FOR M87505)

side - side - length

 

[Wolf44]

Sweet. thanks, just pounded food and was literally stretching fingers for Google FU on the Key....

 

[RussKish]

Check to see if the hub (it is the part with the bearing and spring fingers has a notch in it, that sets the over all spacing. It is the rotor that moves back and forth. Backward toward the coil (electromagnet) to engaged PTO. Forward to stop PTO and apply brake.

 

[Wolf44]

Will take a good look at that notch too, in the rotor, maybe i don't have enough magnet strength ??? to keep it away from the constantly 'braking' ??

 

[RussKish]

I would check the resistance of the coil, it should be around 4 ohms, also inspect the coil for damage (discolored, burnt, exposed wiring). To test for strength (with the coil out) hook the coil to another battery and see if it can pick up a very large bolt, or heavy tool (channel locks).

 

[Wolf44]

Wilco RussKish. Going to be crap this weekend here in MN..........Storms/rain. Thus, I hope to tear it out and try again.

 

[Wolf44]

Gent sold me a nicely used full assembly for fair price and it worked perfectly from the start. Go figure. but even he said my orig. one looked pretty good.

Something just enough off to cause issues or didn't seat just far enough or ???

Thanks All.