Missed a pic..
1989 Cub Cadet No Start
I'm new here, how y'all doin'?
So my 1989 Cub clicks the solenoid and that's all. I've checked a few posts on here and watched some of "Tyrell fixes all" videos on Youtube. I still can't get her to crank with the key, so I'm hoping you good people can help me out.
The engine is a Kohler Command 12.5 Hp. Mower is a 5 speed, not a hydro.
Here's what I've been doing:
Checked my grounds. I took the neg battery cable off the machine and sanded it down to bare metal where it connects. Sanded the battery terminal end as well. Sanded the positive cable too, both ends.
I changed out the solenoid for a new one, 4 post. I also put a 3 post one on that was on my parts mower. Sanded the paint off where it bolts to the machine so it'd ground ok.
Charged up the battery. It's 6 years old but I keep it on a battery tender when I'm not mowing for long periods, 12.79 volts today.
Took Tyrell's advice and tested the starter by removing the battery, ran jumper cables from it to a freshly sanded frame bolt and touched the positive end to the starter post. She wound over no problem; so the starter is good and the engine isn't seized. Pic below of starter and the shiny bolt below left of the starter.
Took off the ignition switch and cleaned up the posts. I put the ignition switch from my parts mower on; nothing changed (my parts mower is also a 1989 Cub Cadet). Pic below.
Took off the foot safety switch and checked it with my test light like Tyrell does. Normally open one side and normally closed on the other side. When you push the switch with the test light connected the test light goes on/off like it should. The foot brake lever makes good contact with the switch when it's depressed. Pic below
There is a safety switch in back of the gear selector, looks like a reverse cutoff switch to me. I tested it with my light and it switches the light on/off when you cycle it. It only has 2 wires going to it and the mower has always mowed in reverse. Pic below.
The seat switch has never been connected in the 20 years I've owned this mower. It looks like it goes open when you sit on the seat and the two wire ends have always been loose. Pic below.
I can't find a PTO safety switch anywhere. The gas tank is out and the deck is off, so I have good access. It's the old style lever arm PTO, not an electric switch. Is the PTO safety one of the two circuits in the foot switch?
I'm running out of ideas. I'm kind of down to a faulty wire somewhere? Maybe the current isn't getting to the starter with enough voltage (I can't hold the probes on the battery and the starter post and crank the key with only two hands, but I'll find a helper today). Or maybe a wire is worn through somewhere?
Any help is much appreciated...
So my 1989 Cub clicks the solenoid and that's all. I've checked a few posts on here and watched some of "Tyrell fixes all" videos on Youtube. I still can't get her to crank with the key, so I'm hoping you good people can help me out.
The engine is a Kohler Command 12.5 Hp. Mower is a 5 speed, not a hydro.
Here's what I've been doing:
Checked my grounds. I took the neg battery cable off the machine and sanded it down to bare metal where it connects. Sanded the battery terminal end as well. Sanded the positive cable too, both ends.
I changed out the solenoid for a new one, 4 post. I also put a 3 post one on that was on my parts mower. Sanded the paint off where it bolts to the machine so it'd ground ok.
Charged up the battery. It's 6 years old but I keep it on a battery tender when I'm not mowing for long periods, 12.79 volts today.
Took Tyrell's advice and tested the starter by removing the battery, ran jumper cables from it to a freshly sanded frame bolt and touched the positive end to the starter post. She wound over no problem; so the starter is good and the engine isn't seized. Pic below of starter and the shiny bolt below left of the starter.
Took off the ignition switch and cleaned up the posts. I put the ignition switch from my parts mower on; nothing changed (my parts mower is also a 1989 Cub Cadet). Pic below.
Took off the foot safety switch and checked it with my test light like Tyrell does. Normally open one side and normally closed on the other side. When you push the switch with the test light connected the test light goes on/off like it should. The foot brake lever makes good contact with the switch when it's depressed. Pic below
There is a safety switch in back of the gear selector, looks like a reverse cutoff switch to me. I tested it with my light and it switches the light on/off when you cycle it. It only has 2 wires going to it and the mower has always mowed in reverse. Pic below.
The seat switch has never been connected in the 20 years I've owned this mower. It looks like it goes open when you sit on the seat and the two wire ends have always been loose. Pic below.
I can't find a PTO safety switch anywhere. The gas tank is out and the deck is off, so I have good access. It's the old style lever arm PTO, not an electric switch. Is the PTO safety one of the two circuits in the foot switch?
I'm running out of ideas. I'm kind of down to a faulty wire somewhere? Maybe the current isn't getting to the starter with enough voltage (I can't hold the probes on the battery and the starter post and crank the key with only two hands, but I'll find a helper today). Or maybe a wire is worn through somewhere?
Any help is much appreciated...
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1 - 20 of 26 Posts
So here's a pic of the relay I installed. I put it close to the solenoid to keep the wire runs short and to keep it out of the weather. The install was pretty simple with the video and the link you provided @Brad . I hopped on her after I had it all together, turned the key, and click, click, click goes the solenoid....
I checked all the connections on the relay and I couldn't find anything wrong. I'm thinking I might take a length of wire and run it from the starter side of the solenoid out to the starter. The cable "looks" fine but there might be a break in it somewhere and it could be corroded inside the insulation. I've seen that happen in boats before.
@Brad do you or @MARK (LI) have any other suggestions?
Thanks.
I checked all the connections on the relay and I couldn't find anything wrong. I'm thinking I might take a length of wire and run it from the starter side of the solenoid out to the starter. The cable "looks" fine but there might be a break in it somewhere and it could be corroded inside the insulation. I've seen that happen in boats before.
@Brad do you or @MARK (LI) have any other suggestions?
Thanks.
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I ran the relay ground (tab 85) to the battery negative ground bolt on the chassis. I could go to the battery negative post also, just to try it. I have tab 30 connected to the battery side of the solenoid (like in the diagram), but I'll switch it to the battery.
Thanks for the help!
I get one click when I cycle the key.
Lots of rain forecast here so it'll be a few days before I can get to the mower again (no garage to work in).
Here's a pic of the grounds. They're on the opposite side of the battery compartment from the solenoid and relay. Big black one is factory cable to negative terminal. Grey wire is mine to relay post #85 (the wire is 12 to 14 inches long). Yes, I took the bolt off and sanded the metal bare and sanded the old terminal end.
Thanks for the help.
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Brad designed this and it has worked on every machine on which I installed it according to his instructions, and it does not bypass any of the safety features.......can't say that it will work if you deviate.....the fuse is important in that if you connect anything incorrectly, and it should be connected with the red cable in this picture of yours
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the fuse will blow before allowing damage to electrical components
the fuse will blow before allowing damage to electrical components
pic of the starter setup.
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I mentioned before that I hooked my battery direct to the starter before to make sure the starter worked, but I'm having so much trouble getting her to crank that I thought I'd retry it. Put the cables on and she turns over freely when I touch the positive cable to the positive battery post.
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So this is the schematic you're talking about, right?
#30 is wired to the battery side of the solenoid. Not a problem to change that, it was like that before though.
Thanks for the help.
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