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1987 318 restoration ... southwest Wisconsin

14157 Views 228 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  GreenGabby
Back to work on the 318 I brought back from Pennsylvania a couple of years ago with a 44 loader installed. Tractor and loader were complete but were used hard an put away wet. The loader is nearing completion on a 332. The 318 was a non-runner. Seller told me it ran but was a heavy oil leaker. I cleaned up quite a bit on it and started restoration and recording over on WFM. I am banned from there so am finishing it up here.

If you are a WFM member you can read about work already completed. You should be able to find the post using 318 s/n 424191.

The tractor is a 1987 (s/n M00318X424191) with P218G Onan engine (esn J863146817).

As I said the seller told me the tractor was a running tractor and the main crank seal was the source of the oil leak. Before I spend money on the engine buying seals,etc I want to make sure it is a good running engine. Not concerned about oil consumption that can be fixed with an overhaul.
  1. Someone had removed the screws attaching the relay to starter housing so the starter would not crank the engine.
    • I had previously removed hood, grille, side shieids, battery, negative battery cable, and battery tray. The fuel line, throttle and choke cables were disconnected as was electrical connection for front pto and headlights.
    • Today I raised the engine and installed new screws (one was missing) to reattach the relay.
    • While the engine was raised I did the best I could to clean the frame under and around engine.
    • Lowered engine back into position and bolted in the engine.
    • Tested starter and engine now cranks. No suspicious noise but engine seems to crank to fast. Need to finish engine installation and try to start.
  2. Engine needs other work but like I said I need to make sure it runs before I spend money on it.
    • Left front mounting tab is broken off oil pan. Needs new pan.
    • Fill tube needs a new gasket. I have had to replace this on other Onan engines. It can be another major oil leak source.
    • While engine is out I will replace oil filter/pressure switch housing gasket. This is another known source for oil leakage.
  3. Need to remove the left side console cover so I can access hydraulic control levers. The set screws/keys anchoring the arms to the lever shafts are allowing the arms to turn on the shafts. I have repaired this on numerous open frame 3XX tractors.
I will get some photos of where I stand on tractor repair.
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Hmmm, an apple a day keeps the doctor away?
Don’t think that’s working!!🤣
Good work Gabby!!
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Having problems getting diabetes sensors which last one expired last night. Health Insurance company is supposed to pay pharmaceutical company and there is conflict between them. You know who the looser is in a conflict like this? Me! Have been on the phone all morning. I think I have won this battle but the war continues. Need Metformin (diabetes drug) from Veterans Admin. Ordered two weeks ago and still nothing. They filled an order from one of their robo calls for a drug I did not need. Need to rattle their cages also.

Just starting intake manifold clean up.
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Didn't get much of the intake manifold cleaned but I did get the engine lifted so I could remove the right side head cover. Removed oil filter and head. I am concerned by amount of oil in the cylinder. Am suspecting the engine will be coming out again for piston and rings. Substantial mess to clean up on the right side.

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Off to a school board meeting.
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It’s probably worth the effort on rebuilding it, I really like theses old Onans, I have a 318 with a p218g that has 3,000 hours it ( I think it been rebuilt a lease once) and it still runs strong….
It’s probably worth the effort on rebuilding it, I really like theses old Onans, I have a 318 with a p218g that has 3,000 hours it ( I think it been rebuilt a lease once) and it still runs strong….
They will run good for long time if the oil gets changed and the valves get serviced
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Cleaned up the valves and piston on right cylinder today.
  • Haven't removed oil pressure switch and filter base yet. Those parts are extremely oily.
  • Jim tells me I need to replace the oil pressure switch (Deere HE309-0548 replaces HE309-0510). Deere price for switch is $70.20 USD.
  • Onanparts.com asking price for Onan 309-0510/309-0546 Oil Pressure Switch is $16.50 USD. I guess we know where I will getting this switch.
  • DEERE 318 PC shows switch mounted in PT7910 45° elbow. There is no elbow on my engine and Onanparts does not sell this elbow. If I have one in stock I will see about installing.
  • I need to get this oil filter base, gasket, and switch installed before I install the head. More room to work on it that way.
  • I want to get the right side valves adjusted tomorrow and covers installed with new gaskets. Once that is done I can start installing intake manifold and exhaust tubes/gaskets.
Tomorrow I need to take Laurie to doctors appointments and grocery shopping so not sure how much will get completed on engine tomorrow.
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Spent the whole day running errands. That gives me the rest of the week. Ordered the pressure switch from Onanparts today.
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I am not going to say this was the massive oil leak I had but it would cause considerable leakage. I may have broke this gasket removing the base. The side of the engine is very oily under this gasket.

I am very close to lifting the engine out of the frame to replace the oil pan. The gasket and the pressure switch will both be replaced.
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The oil filter base gasket was brittle and broke into pieces when I removed it from the base. I have the new gasket on hand.

To lift the engine out of the frame
  • I cannot lift the engine by myself without mechanical assistance so I need to do some reassembly to use cherry picker to lift the engine.
  • Tomorrow I am going to clean up the block around the filter base and the cylinder head.
  • Before I can install the head I need to adjust the valves. I did check the clearance today.
    • Exhaust I am going to leave as is. Checked about .013".
    • Intake valve however like the left side was < .002. It will need adjustment.
  • Then I can install the valve cover, the filter base, and cylinder head all with new gaskets.
  • When this is done I can install intake manifold and exhaust tubes.
When I have the engine lifted I will
  • install the driveshaft on the charge pump
  • Remove, clean, and paint the flywheel cover
  • Replace the broken oil pan.
Then everything can be reassembled and see it the engine will start. I see the end of the tunnel.
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With the oil plan off you only 4 bolts away from honeing the cylinder and putting a set of rings in it ,if were mine I wouldn’t think twice about it,not knowing the condition of the rings at this point it’s an easy job but if it gets all done and the rings are tired,then you know what a job it is to do a lot of things you have already done again,
Just my 2 cents worth.
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Yes to what Biker said! Change them while you are that far in, you won't be sorry.
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Good morning Jim.

I agree this would probably be a good time to hone and re-ring the cylinders. Probably would have been a good time to also grind the valves.

My intention with this project was to fix the massive oil leak and get the engine running. I should have done a compression test before tearing the engine down. That would have given me an indication on condition of rings/valves. I was told by PO that engine needed a crank seal. From what I have seen the crank seal is ok and the leak was caused by the filter base gasket. Also the fill tube was mangled and may well have contributed to the leakage, Maybe the missing tab on the oil pan could also cause some leakage (crack in oil pan). Also I do not know why a PO unbolted the starter and drive shaft but those needed service also. For all I know this may not be the original engine in this tractor.

I understand it is recommended service to decarb the piston/head and check valve adjustment at some service interval. Re-ring the engine and grind the valves were never my intention with this project. When I am have this 318 running I will make the determination whether further service is required and if so the engine will probably get removed next winter for a complete rebuild like I just had done with 120 and 140 engines.

I explained earlier this is my first venture into an Onan engine. Admit I am a newbie here. I have another 318 with B43 down and removed while I install H3 hydraulic system. That engine ran perfectly and did not use oil. I will however since the engine is out of the tractor I will do the same work as I am doing on this engine except for replacing the oil pan. This P218 engine is giving training on what to expect when I tear into that project.

Thanks for your advice and following along with me on this project ... Gabby
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In my last response to Jim I meant to say "the fill tube gasket was mangled". My mistake.
Company this morning so haven't been to the garage yet today. Bought a large beef roast Wednesday when we were out and about. Was still in the fridge. Cut that up today into about 1 1/4 lb roasts. Having beef roast with potatoes, carrots, and onions for supper. The other two roasts are in the freezer for a later day.

Oil pressure switch for the 318 came in the mail today. I think it will be easier to install the filter base on the engine without the switch then install the pressure switch. Heading out to the garage here shortly. I need to get some work done.
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Here is the reason you do not find inexpensive running Deere garden tractors. Costs a fortune for parts to get/keep them running. A pair of muffler u-bolts, a condenser, engine oil filter and an air filter and (foam) pre-cleaner cost me $111.61. The condenser was $54.98 w/o tax. I don't think the 318 needed the condenser so will put that in my inventory to keep expense costs down on the 318.

I have the valves adjusted on both cylinders and the valves installed with new gaskets. The left cylinder head is installed with new head gasket and the intake manifold and exhaust pipes are installed with new gaskets. All hardware is properly torqued. The muffler is installed but not bolted down.

Tonight after supper I would like to get the oil filter base and gasket installed and the right cylinder head cleaned and installed with new head gasket.

Will get photo after supper.
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Deere condensor part # HE 312-0256 dealer price is $54.98 (USD) w/o tax ... Onan condenser part # 312-0256 is $19.00 (USD) but is sold out. Going to call Onanparts to see if the part is going to be restocked. My dealer will buy back their condenser if I can get it from Onan. I don't like doing that but $35 difference in part is worth the effort.
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Here is the engine; most of it reassembled. All I need to remove to lift the engine out of the frame is to disconnect the fuel lines from the pump. I have to take Laurie to doctor tomorrow and Thursday but hope to have time to lift the engine and replace the oil pan. With the engine lifted I hope to be able to pull the driveshaft out of the frame and service it. Then reinstall. I have firewall insulation to install next. Then finish assembling the engine an bolt it back into frame. Reconnect wiring and then fire it up. As I said earlier I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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says genuine onan, $12 shipped, 437 sold, hmmm....

Genuine Onan Cummins 312-0256 Generator External Condenser OEM


keep the updates and pics coming

J
____

2017 John Deere X738 60" auto-connect deck, johnny bucket, purchased sept 2017
1986 John Deere 316, 50" deck, purchased jan 1987, B43e onan died 2017, re-powered w P216
2010 Cyclone Rake Z10 - retired 2022
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I don’t think I’ve ever seen a coil like the one you have.
Coil is one of the ways to determine if engine is a B43 or P218. Attached is photo of a B43 coil. Located in same area on engine but is laying on its side. I have a B43 engine in the garage I will see if I can get a photo of tomorrow.
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Didn't get home from doctors' appointment, dinner, and grocery shopping till about 4:00 today. I did not make it to the garage to get anything done today.
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I know the difference but yours looks to be square and posts pointing up,unlike either b43 or p 218
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