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· Three of my friends
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That will do it
 

· Three of my friends
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What I try to do is not remove the three nuts on the pulley/flex plate and remove the clutch as a complete unit including the coil. The rusty ones can be a challenge.
It won’t come off with the nuts on
 
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· Three of my friends
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I realized you were referring to the crank Pulley on the PTO, not the crank gear. Sorry about the confusion, I'll go back to just listening. :)
Yeah the pto is the discussion
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I realized you were referring to the crank Pulley on the PTO, not the crank gear. Sorry about the confusion, I'll go back to just listening. :)
That is ok. I was confused thinking the pulley was separate from the pto. As I said this is my first 318 restoration. I have tore them down and repainted/powder coated the sheet metal but never got in the electronics or hydraulics of these. There are a few items stumping me but for the most part I am finding this 318 fairly simple to work on. The removeable side covers on the console make working in that area much simpler than on the closed frame tractors. I haven't destroyed anything yet. I am taking my time and being cautious with disassembly.

I did go back to the garage tonight and remove the 3 locknuts and sprayed some more PB Blaster on the pulley. tomorrow I will see if I can loosen/remove the pto using a puller.
 

· Three of my friends
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IF ( big if) you pull the field winding coil off,
When you put it back on,put the 4 bolts in finger loose,wrap 3 rounds of masking tape around the outside of the coil,slip the rotor over the coil,tighten the four bolts,pull the rotor off,remove the tape from the coil,now you have a good equal gap between the coil and the hub,
If the coil is put on solid and the rotor is put on and the gap is too small it will foul out between the 2 and ruin the coil.
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
@biker277, that is a good point. I really do not need to remove the pto except to get access to the two cap screws that hold the muffler. Is there a way to remove the muffler without removing the pto?
 

· Three of my friends
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NO,
Here’s what I do to the muffler,I cut the bottom out of the 2 holes and use Allen bolts and then all that is required is to loosen the bolts and slide the muffler out next time,adjusting the valves requires the muffler come off to get the headers off but some remove the header
 
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· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Used two jaw puller to remove the PTO. Removed without a lot of effort. Removed the muffler and clean up the front of the engine. There did not seem to be leakage from the crank seal.
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Separated the coil and armature. PTO appears to be toast. My guess is someone tried to operate the pto with it being loosely mounted and not adjusted properly. My low cost restoration just went out the window. I do not believe I have correct pto in my inventory. Think I will take it out to Jim for his opinion. It looks bad!!!
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· Three of my friends
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All is not lost,
The rotor is rough but maybe it will clean up,all it does is move forward and aft the .018 gap.
The coil is classic miss aligned with a guess as to where it fits,
What I would do is,check the coil to see if it’s shorted,if not,kinda clean it up and get some epoxy and fill the gap,
It does not appear to have wires sticking out iPod the damaged area.
The only reason it did that is heat generated from the bad fit so if fitted proper that won’t happen again.
 

· Three of my friends
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Actually that motor looks pretty clean.does the coil have 1 or 2 wires.
Put 12 volts to the coil and lay a box end wrench over it and if it sticks the coil is good
You might check the bearing in the pulley for smoothness and replace if rough feeling ,
When you put it back together,the keyin the key way will only stick bout 1/4 inch,just enough to fit in the slot in the rotor.
 
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· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Jim, the clutch is a 2 wire Ogura.

I did not remove the rotor from the armature but I suspect the armature will be ok. Suspect bearing is also ok but will check.

Yes, the coil does not have any wires sticking out thru the epoxy. Before I disassembled and had battery hooked up the clutch would click and light on dash worked. Starter would not engage with pto engaged. I think the coil is reparable but will need to look up what to use for expoxy..

The rotor I am sure is history.inside surface is heavy worn from contact with ? Rotor would have rubbed against something on the coil. Need to make sure both of these parts are reusable.
 
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· Three of my friends
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That area in the rotor isn’t a working area,I think what your seeing is remnants of the epoxy,put some heat on it with a propane torch and see if it melts,otherwise just sand it smooth.
There’s nothing inside there that can cause metal damage.
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Don't know if I can get better photo but the inside of the rotor appears heavily worn. I need to clear snow today and will get back on the rotor later this afternoon.
 
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· Three of my friends
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It looks like it’s been welded on and that might be what pulled the epoxy out
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
I did not have a lot of time to work on this today but did do some cleaning and inspection. The outside of the coil is heavily worn from contact with the inner ID of the rotor. I am not sure what caused the wear to the inside bottom of the rotor. It is not epoxy you see in the photo; the metal is ground down but I do not see what it was contacting.
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I have not tested the coil as you suggested but I am pretty sure it will test ok but does need epoxy repair. The rotor is NLA from Deere and I do not find just a rotor for sale on eBay/Craigslist.

According to Deere PC clutch p/n AM104895 is used on 3XX open frame tractors with Onan/Yanmar engines and 317 tractor with Onan engine replacing KT17 Kohler engine. Think I will go looking for replacement clutch.
 
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· Three of my friends
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Take a pix of the other side,put into the crank and spin it to see if it’s warped,
It’s junk as far as I can tell but I’m in Texas,a long ways.lol
The welding would warp it
 

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You might be able to use a grinding tool on a lathe to clean it up (or a cutting tool that can do interrupted cuts on hard material, in my experience HSS tooling doesn't work well on welded up stuff).
 
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