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· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Back to work on the 318 I brought back from Pennsylvania a couple of years ago with a 44 loader installed. Tractor and loader were complete but were used hard an put away wet. The loader is nearing completion on a 332. The 318 was a non-runner. Seller told me it ran but was a heavy oil leaker. I cleaned up quite a bit on it and started restoration and recording over on WFM. I am banned from there so am finishing it up here.

If you are a WFM member you can read about work already completed. You should be able to find the post using 318 s/n 424191.

The tractor is a 1987 (s/n M00318X424191) with P218G Onan engine (esn J863146817).

As I said the seller told me the tractor was a running tractor and the main crank seal was the source of the oil leak. Before I spend money on the engine buying seals,etc I want to make sure it is a good running engine. Not concerned about oil consumption that can be fixed with an overhaul.
  1. Someone had removed the screws attaching the relay to starter housing so the starter would not crank the engine.
    • I had previously removed hood, grille, side shieids, battery, negative battery cable, and battery tray. The fuel line, throttle and choke cables were disconnected as was electrical connection for front pto and headlights.
    • Today I raised the engine and installed new screws (one was missing) to reattach the relay.
    • While the engine was raised I did the best I could to clean the frame under and around engine.
    • Lowered engine back into position and bolted in the engine.
    • Tested starter and engine now cranks. No suspicious noise but engine seems to crank to fast. Need to finish engine installation and try to start.
  2. Engine needs other work but like I said I need to make sure it runs before I spend money on it.
    • Left front mounting tab is broken off oil pan. Needs new pan.
    • Fill tube needs a new gasket. I have had to replace this on other Onan engines. It can be another major oil leak source.
    • While engine is out I will replace oil filter/pressure switch housing gasket. This is another known source for oil leakage.
  3. Need to remove the left side console cover so I can access hydraulic control levers. The set screws/keys anchoring the arms to the lever shafts are allowing the arms to turn on the shafts. I have repaired this on numerous open frame 3XX tractors.
I will get some photos of where I stand on tractor repair.
 

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Back to work on the 318 I brought back from Pennsylvania a couple of years ago with a 44 loader installed. Tractor and loader were complete but were used hard an put away wet. The loader is nearing completion on a 332. The 318 was a non-runner. Seller told me it ran but was a heavy oil leaker. I cleaned up quite a bit on it and started restoration and recording over on WFM. I am banned from there so am finishing it up here.

If you are a WFM member you can read about work already completed. You should be able to find the post using 318 s/n 424191.

The tractor is a 1987 (s/n M00318X424191) with P218G Onan engine (esn J863146817).

As I said the seller told me the tractor was a running tractor and the main crank seal was the source of the oil leak. Before I spend money on the engine buying seals,etc I want to make sure it is a good running engine. Not concerned about oil consumption that can be fixed with an overhaul.
  1. Someone had removed the screws attaching the relay to starter housing so the starter would not crank the engine.
    • I had previously removed hood, grille, side shieids, battery, negative battery cable, and battery tray. The fuel line, throttle and choke cables were disconnected as was electrical connection for front pto and headlights.
    • Today I raised the engine and installed new screws (one was missing) to reattach the relay.
    • While the engine was raised I did the best I could to clean the frame under and around engine.
    • Lowered engine back into position and bolted in the engine.
    • Tested starter and engine now cranks. No suspicious noise but engine seems to crank to fast. Need to finish engine installation and try to start.
  2. Engine needs other work but like I said I need to make sure it runs before I spend money on it.
    • Left front mounting tab is broken off oil pan. Needs new pan.
    • Fill tube needs a new gasket. I have had to replace this on other Onan engines. It can be another major oil leak source.
    • While engine is out I will replace oil filter/pressure switch housing gasket. This is another known source for oil leakage.
  3. Need to remove the left side console cover so I can access hydraulic control levers. The set screws/keys anchoring the arms to the lever shafts are allowing the arms to turn on the shafts. I have repaired this on numerous open frame 3XX tractors.
I will get some photos of where I stand on tractor repair.
You're doing it right, little bit at a time and making sure everything is accounted for! Can't wait to see the pics GG!
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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910 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Matt and Happy Holidays to You & Family also.

Here the 318 w/loader as purchased. Like I said it was rough.
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Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Hood


Here is the tractor with the loader removed. Tractor has a 316 hood installed Hood is in pretty good shape. Think I will leave it that way.
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Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle


This is how the 318 looked when I started working on it this morning. I made some major steps but the photos don't show it. First photo show how dirty the tractor was when I brought it home. Still needs some major cleanup when the engine is removed.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Tread Wheel
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Tread
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Vehicle


Tomorrow I would like to get the console left cover and hydraulic lever assembly removed so I can get that repaired. Then I would like to finish installing the engine to see if it will fire up. Seller had changed oil in the engine. It is clean oil but no idea what brand or weight. Oil level is at the full mark so I should be able to start without issues.
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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910 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I got the hydraulic lever assembly removed today.
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Set screw on both levers were loose; not even finger tight. One key was worn and elongated. I lost the second during disassembly. I have ordered both keys and set screws. I have had issues reusing original set screws.They like to strip out the allen head insert and will reloosen. Replacement cost is $2.13 (USD) each. Dealer is transferring parts from a sister store. they should be here tomorrow afternoon.
Automotive tire Drinkware Cup Wood Gas
Rectangle Wood Material property Gadget Font


Night I plan to paint the parts so they can dry overnight and be ready for reassembly tomorrow afternoon.
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Also plan to repaint side console an frame in area of the cover. Tractor will end up looking like a zebra with some parts original paint and others repainted. Hopefully though it will run like new.

Here are a couple of other projects I need to finish.
  1. H2 hydraulic system from an early 300 I want to install in my 120. Early 300 uses same triangular bracket on frame as 120/140
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  2. Updating a 318 with 420 H3 hydraulic valve and levers. Lever mounting block is same as H2 system. H2 leaves one hole unused.
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· Retired Deere Employee
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910 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Doctor appointment this morning and haircut this afternoon. Not going to get much done on the tractor today.
 
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Set screw on both levers were loose; not even finger tight. One key was worn and elongated. I lost the second during disassembly. I have ordered both keys and set screws. I have had issues reusing original set screws.They like to strip out the allen head insert and will reloosen. Replacement cost is $2.13 (USD) each. Dealer is transferring parts from a sister store. they should be here tomorrow afternoon.
Hey Gabby, I need to tighten the levers on my 318s & 322s. I have a few questions. Set screw is 22H841, $2.13 ea, 1/4 x 1/4. Shaft key is 26H70, $.67, 1/8 x 1/2. Are there any better alternatives for these parts, such as a screw with a conventional hex head, to replace the set screw? Is there room? Does the side panel and lever assembly need to be removed to access both the set screw and key?
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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910 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What adds time to this repair on open frame tractors is you need to remove the seat and the fender deck to get to to console mounting hardware., You do not have to do this on closed frame tractors but you need to work in the area under the battery tray to remove the lever assembly. Access is improved when you can remove the side cover and leave the rest intact.
  1. I paid $5.91 (includes $0.31 Wisconsin tax) for two set screws and shaft keys.
  2. Second difficult part is removing the cotter keys from the pins that pin the linkage to the lever arm. To simplify assembly and future service I replace the cotter keys with hitch pins. I buy container of multiple pins from Harbor Freight. Price on box says $5.98. I use a lot of these pins unless access to cotter key is not an issue.
  3. I don't think you can replace the set screws anything with a head because the screw with interfere with the other linkage arms. These set screws are also available from Harbor Freight in multiple size container. Price should be about the same.
  4. Removing the lever assembly to make the repair is a debatable issue. I have 72 year old fumble fingers. Easier for me to make the repair with the assembly removed. Also allows me to clean up and paint the parts.
  5. Don't pictures for the this. There are two bolts you need to remove to unbolt the assembly from the frame. Bolt heads are visible behind the levers and are easily accessed. There are nuts on the back side. On this tractor I was able to break the torque to loosen hardware without accessing the nut. Usually once bolt is free it spins easily off the nut. This tractor require me to use a wrench on the nut. The nuts are fairly to access from the front side of the assembly. You can easily stick your fingers in to hold the nut. If you need a wrench it is not to difficult the get a wrench on the nut. Clean up bolt and nut before reassembly and it will spin on with no problems.
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· Retired Deere Employee
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910 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Matt, weatherman is being kind of wishy-washy. Mom said earlier today snowfall prediction dropped from 12" to 2". Now they are back up to 6". The thing is with predicted 45 mph winds it will depend on where you measure that snowfall. I don't have the windbreak like you so I have to contend with drifting.
 
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· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nasty weather here in sw Wisconsin. Still bitter cold and high winds. Luckily not much snow to clear as the wind is blowing it past my driveway.

I did make it to the garage yesterday and the lever assembly can be reassembled and installed today. Yesterday I got the rusty, dirty frame cleaned up and some rust restorer/paint applied. Not a professional job but it does look better. I should do same under the right side console cover. I need to paint the left side cover to finish up the hydraulic lever project. Battery tray is removed and is also going to get a coat of rust restorer/paint.

Also, yesterday I notice that while I was jostling the engine around to fix the starter I disconnected the driveshaft at the transmission. Need to unbolt the engine again to attach the driveshaft. May be easier to unbolt driveshaft from engine to install? I owe pictures again.
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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910 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have the lever assembly reassembled and installed in tractor.
  • Emery cloth lever shaft and general purpose grease.
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  • Install lever shaft thru mounting block and install key in slot.
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  • Install arm on shaft Before I install the set screw in the arm I put a drop of thread locker on the set screw.
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  • Here is the assembled lever and cleaned up frame ready for installation.
    Table Hand tool Wood Tool Cup
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  • The install lever assembly.
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The two levers are not aligned as they should be. The out lever is twisted. I have seen this on other 318 tractors. I think what happens is the lever does not function properly because it needs the service I just completed. When the hydraulic does not function properly the operator forces the lever trying to get it to work. Result is bent lever, not correct hydraulic actuation.. I straightened lever with a crescent wrench. Levers are parallel now but the inner lever is forward of the outer lever.
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· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Couple photos of the disconnected driveshaft rear yoke. I am glad I removed the fender deck to fix the levers or I would not have found this. Imagine the damage this would have caused when I got the engine running.
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Some photos of the console left side cover. It has been wire brushed with die grinder and then sanded and steel wooled. Sprayed rusty areas with Rust Restorer and is drying right now. Still need to tape fuel shutoff decal before it gets painted.
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Here is the condition of the right side console cover/frame. It really should be cleaned up and painted also but I install the fender deck. Need to make up my mind on this. Restoring the tractor to be a general purpose tractor; not at beauty queen. Next projects are to fix driveshaft issue and get the engine bolted in.
EDIT: So I can see if it will start.
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· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Went back to the garage after supper. The console left side cover is painted on one side. Hope to get the other side painted tomorrow so with cure time I can install it on Monday.
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One side of the battery tray has been wire brushed and sprayed with Rust Restorer. Need to sand the underside and then paint the tray black.
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Started working on the drive shaft issue. I have the engine unbolted and slid forward. Not enough room to install the splined rear yoke. Raised the front of the engine to sit on the flange on front of frame but this causes driveshaft to contact oil line off the control valve. Will need to remove driveshaft from flywheel. Decided to call it a night at this point.
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Kind of a lazy day here. I did get the console left shield and the battery tray painted. The driveshaft is unbolted from the engine. Still cannot get the rear yoke to slip onto the transmission input shaft. think I need to remove top control connection to give me room. Don't understand how it disconnected.. Going to remove and paint the console right side shield.
 

· Three of my friends
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Now would be a good time to replace the seal,on the output shaft in the pump
 
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Maybe someone had the engine out and forgot that the shaft needed attached when replacing…😂😂😂
With the battery tray, did you spray under coat on it?
I did on mine and also around the firewall with thoughts being rubber it might insulated in case the battery tipped over and touched the metal.
but it ended up making the tractor a bit quieter.
 

· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

· Retired Deere Employee
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Maybe someone had the engine out and forgot that the shaft needed attached when replacing…😂😂😂
With the battery tray, did you spray under coat on it?
I did on mine and also around the firewall with thoughts being rubber it might insulated in case the battery tipped over and touched the metal.
but it ended up making the tractor a bit quieter.
I got this tractor as a non-runner with a 44 loader. The engine had massive oil leakage. Previous owner filled it with fresh oil. The person I bought the unit from had bought unit from someone else so I am at least 3rd owner. The person I bought the unit from told me the engine ran but had a failed main bearing seal. I keep finding more surprises the further I get into it. Yes someone could have removed engine but why would they reassemble with relay not bolted to starter housing. Tonight I found the time delay module is loose under the wiring harness. It is wired in place; no bolts.

I know the engine needs to be pulled again before I am finished with it. I am just fixing it so I can get it started to see if the engine runs. Need to determine if the engine is worthy of rebuild. I would rather rebuild than replace but have not got that far yet. I do know it needs oil pan replaced as left front mounting tab is broken off. Also needs filler tube seal replaced. Will probably need oil filter base seal replaced. These are all known leak points but I do not want to spend money on the engine until I know it runs and is rebuildable.

Edit: I am keeping my eyes open for a running used P218.
 
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