1986 316 rear wheels - wide vs narrow ?

5650 Views 17 Replies 7 Participants Last post by jar19800, Aug 9, 2013

jimbo316

Discussion Starter · Aug 3, 2013 (Edited)

how can i tell if my 1986 316 rear wheels are set to wide vs narrow ?

rear tires/rims stick out about 1.25" from the frame on each side

thx

J

__________________

1986 John Deere 316, 38" deck, G6 Gator blades - original owner, purchased jan 1987
2010 Cyclone Rake Z10 w/dual wheels

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1 - 18 of 18 Posts

rabbitking61

· #2 · Aug 3, 2013

Look at the rims where they bolt to the axel. If from the axel to rim by the tire tapers to the inside, they are set up as narrow. If it goes out from the axel they are wide.

jimbo316

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 3, 2013

any idea how much wider the wide stance is ?

SWIGIN

· #4 · Aug 3, 2013

rabbitking61 said:
Look at the rims where they bolt to the axel. If from the axel to rim by the tire tapers to the inside, they are set up as narrow. If it goes out from the axel they are wide.

My brain hurts trying to imagine this...lol

jar19800

· #5 · Aug 3, 2013

the center hole has a lip. if the lip is present they are wide. if it turn in toward the tractor they are narrow. the pic in the avatar looks narrow.

from JD manual, click to enlarge

Text Font Screenshot Technology Photography

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jimbo316

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 3, 2013

much thanks

here are 2 pics

looks like narrow right ?

J

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2

jar19800

· #7 · Aug 3, 2013

yes, that is narrow. tire valve stems outside is narrow...forgot about that until i saw your pic

tire valve stems inside means Wide.

getting the wheels on the wide position is a bit of work as the lip i spoke of now wants to let the wheel fall off the hub. so i take a phillips head screwdriver (a large one) and use it to guide the wheel using a lug hole. i dont know why these small tractors dont use wheel studs it would make things easier.

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jimbo316

Discussion Starter · #8 · Aug 3, 2013

funny, i was just going to ask how much of a pain it was to swap.

seem to remember that the black center nut is a pain to get off as well.

any tips ?

jar19800

· #9 · Aug 3, 2013

no need to remove the big nut.

remove the 5 bolts in a circle and wheel comes off.

just make sure to jack it up first...

loosen the bolts with the parking brake set.
Chock the front wheels
jack rear of tractor so wheels are slightly off the ground
remove 5 bolts
wheel comes off.

if your tires are fluid filled they will be heavy!

get a Phillips head screwdriver about the size of a pencil. make sure it fits the bolt holes in the brake drum.

stick the screwdriver thru a bolt hole in wheel
guide screwdriver and wheel in a bolt hole on tractor
fight and cuss as you line up and install two bolts
remove screwdriver
install all bolts, tighten in criss cross pattern.
torque to 55 pounds
lower tractor
Enjoy

not as hard as it sounds just make sure to be safe while working with jacks and such. the bolts are metric.

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mrbacklash

· #10 · Aug 3, 2013

An even easier way to hold them up is pick up a 7/16-20 set screw 1" or longer then remove the top lug bolt while the tractor is jacked up then remove the rest and it will not fall and makes loaded tires super easy

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jar19800

· #11 · Aug 3, 2013

:fing20:

wish i had thought if that...so they are NOT metric like the rest of the heap?

mrbacklash

· #12 · Aug 4, 2013

Not sure that's for my 210 I figure they would be the same maybe not

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jimbo316

Discussion Starter · #13 · Aug 5, 2013

had a chance yesterday to take a shot at this and got it done in about 20 min. approx 3" wider, should help on some hills i deal with. i had painted the rear wheels a few times over the past 26 years with the wheels on, so the inside rims were never done. now need to do that....

the screwdriver trick helped, i also used a log splitting wedge under the wheel to help hold in place.

have a torque wrench on order so will set the lbs correctly when that arrives. may take off one rim again to align valve stems with other rim so to make reaching the valves now inside easier

thx again for the help

J

__________________

1986 John Deere 316, 38" deck, G6 Gator blades - original owner, purchased jan 1987
2010 Cyclone Rake Z10 w/dual wheels

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Diesel332

· #14 · Aug 5, 2013

A torque wrench isn't necessary, the torque is just a reccomendation. I usually just take my 1/2 inch drive socket with an extension and the 5/8 socket and tighten it until the wrench just doesn't have enough leverage left.

jar19800

· #15 · Aug 5, 2013

dont bother to align the valve stems. after you turn a corner they will no longer be inline due to the differential action of the rear axle.

torque wrench is not required but is helpful to prevent too much torque on the bolt. you can strip out the threads in the brake drum then. not likely though unless you remove the wheels often.

i use a butterfly 3/8" impact it hits about 55pounds.

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jimbo316

Discussion Starter · #16 · Aug 9, 2013

well, my fun tractor project is done. bought this tractor new 26 years ago. i flipped the rear wheels inside out, to get a wider stance. you can see in one of the end pics that each rear tire sticks out a few inches past the wheel wells, so the wider stance should help on hills.

the insides of the rear rims had never been washed in 26 years, they were black, caked with stuff, oil, etc. i hosed them off, decreased them and they still looked bad, so i decide to break out my JD yellow spray paint cans and blue painters tape. unfortunately i did not take pics of the tire before cleaning and painting. painted the deck, even caught the tip of one of my new G6 gator blades.

since you guys like pics, see pics of my outdoor "paint room" and then the finished product.

J
__________________

1986 John Deere 316, 38" deck, G6 Gator blades - original owner, purchased jan 1987
2010 Cyclone Rake Z10 w/dual wheels

See less See more

7

396 big block

· #17 · Aug 9, 2013

jimbo316 said:
well, my fun tractor project is done. bought this tractor new 26 years ago. i flipped the rear wheels inside out, to get a wider stance. you can see in one of the end pics that each rear tire sticks out a few inches past the wheel wells, so the wider stance should help on hills.

the insides of the rear rims had never been washed in 26 years, they were black, caked with stuff, oil, etc. i hosed them off, decreased them and they still looked bad, so i decide to break out my JD yellow spray paint cans and blue painters tape. unfortunately i did not take pics of the tire before cleaning and painting. painted the deck, even caught the tip of one of my new G6 gator blades.

since you guys like pics, see pics of my outdoor "paint room" and then the finished product.

J
__________________

1986 John Deere 316, 38" deck, G6 Gator blades - original owner, purchased jan 1987
2010 Cyclone Rake Z10 w/dual wheels

Looks great!!! Dig your paint booth!!:thThumbsU

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jar19800

· #18 · Aug 9, 2013

sweet looking ride dude!

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