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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I asked in a previous thread if I should restore my tractor to factory specs or make it my own. I decided to change a few things and make it my own but still keep it looking factory. Hydraulic unit valve and tank can be removed as a unit and set on the ground without removing any hoses. Suction and discharge lines are stainless steel tubing. Hood latches are stainless steel from McMaster Karr. Handbuilt bumper and front tow hitch. Paint is NAPA commercial coatings, Allis Chambers orange (good high quality paint). I changed the troublesome 18 to a 14 hp, make a carb adapter plate to mount the 18 hp air cleaner. Last photo is John Deere mule disks that I adapted to fit Powerking Drawbar. I pull the disks in second gear and build great rows!

BUD













 

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you truly did an amazing job. i like those custom parts, especialy the recever hitch on the front.is that the factoy sides on the grill? and what about the mounts for the bumper?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
bmx, Look at the second picture. Look at the frame at the bottom of the engine air shroud. I made new brackets that weld to the top of the frame. They are even with the inside of the frame allowing you to push the engine/clutch/transmission forward to change the belt or clutch work without removing the engine. The part that sticks out with 2 bolt holes also serves as an axle pivot stop. The body work just had to be pulled out a little and it will bolt up. The sides on the orginal bumper came with the tractor, but stuck out front for enough to put the battery (in a boat battery box) up front. The battery was mounted there. I guess the PO wanted weight up front.

BUD
 

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Excellent job! :congrats: I like that front bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ken, I think I paid around $100.00 for everything. Paint, reducer, and paint strainers. You mix it 4 parts paint and 1 part reducer. I have enough left over to repaint my 1963 Jim Dandy. I restored it several years ago with the same paint. I didn't blast the sheet metal and I am starting to get a few rust bubbles on the hood. The little JD is on the trailer with the Hit&Miss engines, so it is a show butt buggy. The only problem is that I can never find it, someone is always using it to move trailers or ride kids.

BUD
 

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Looks good my friend!!! Still plugging away at my 2418. Stalled out with a material shortage.
 

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I understand the "stalled" feeling..... Great work so far, I really like it. I hope to have a Power King for one of my next builds.
 

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you should bolt up your right front and rear to the left and the same for the left side

will give you a little bit wider stance , and they look better that way

just saying

OOO and hey give us a picture of it with that nice cam you took the other pics with

flip the wheels to the opposite sides hehe

i wana see i wana see
 

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Mine is also a 1980 (Serial no 55016). But I am uncertain if my throttle linkages (cable to carb) are properly installed. Might you have a picture of that linkage setup? I have searched images on the internet. Do you know of an internet picture of the setup? My 361 manual does not illustrate the linkage. Thanks, I am working in the cold and would rather have an idea of what I am doing first.
 

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QUOTE=charles.shepard;2058172]Mine is also a 1980 (Serial no 55016). But I am uncertain if my throttle linkages (cable to carb) are properly installed. Might you have a picture of that linkage setup? I have searched images on the internet. Do you know of an internet picture of the setup? My 361 manual does not illustrate the linkage. Thanks, I am working in the cold and would rather have an idea of what I am doing first.[/QUOTE]

Will this help?
http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t381/calihick1/?action=view&current=IMG_6186.jpg
 

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Mine is also a 1980 (Serial no 55016). But I am uncertain if my throttle linkages (cable to carb) are properly installed. Might you have a picture of that linkage setup? I have searched images on the internet. Do you know of an internet picture of the setup? My 361 manual does not illustrate the linkage. Thanks, I am working in the cold and would rather have an idea of what I am doing first.
I went thru all of my photos and this is all I have on the kinkages. Hope you can make it out.
 

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Yes thanks for your photos. They will help. The linkage shares the "middle" hole on the cover with the throttle stop plate. The slotted portion is secured with a separate bolt in the first slot. I think. Thanks to all that replied.
 

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I see you removed the major sheet metal parts to prime and paint but how did you prepare and paint the frame and other sub components? Did you disassemble and blast everything or did you degrease and paint by hand or some other method? I just bought a PK 2418 with loader and after I get it running, I'd like to start painting it. I did a frame off full restoration of a Sears Suburban using Rustoleum paint and I was not happy with the paint and it turned out to be way too much work for the end result in my opinion, I think this 2418 will be another story though I'm not sure I want to disassemble the entire thing for painting. Any thoughts or opinions on a halfway decent way to prep and paint an old machine without fully disassembling would be great. That said, nothing upsets me more than when I see people selling tractors on Craigslist that they picked up cheap and spray painted the wheels AND tires in hopes for a few extra bucks.....I'd pay less for it at that point.
 
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