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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
My Ford 335 doen't want to start. when i use to turn the key it would make a click sound and now it doesn't. i seen a post on here that saying it's the relay. anyone know where i can buy one?
the starter cranks over fine. Could it be the starter safety switch? Thanks for the Help. Buzzy.

Hello,
Anyone have a part number for a timer relay for my Ford 335 tractor. I seen this post by Tony Bachler and think this is my issuse of my tractor not starting.

"That is interesting; Because the Glow Plugs Need to get Hot. No matter How cold or warm. If that has the little 3 Cylinder Diesel. I Had to replace that little timer Relay Twice . It is down on the Left side of the fire wall, Behind the Engine.It is Black About 1 inch square and about 2 inches long.. What was Happing with 2 of mine . It was kicking off before the Glow plugs got hot enough to Fire the Diesel.. When the diesel would fire it would smoke White Till it got warm... You can test it by putting a lighted jumper on the glow Plug wire. When you turn the switch on. It should be on for about 20/25 seconds, That would be long enough to make the glow plug hot... That little Relay you can put in your shirt pocket is about $100.00 Dollars. But with out it the tractor Is Use less.. Life is good.."

i found this.
https://www.amazon.com/VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-TRACTOR-8RH2006-5-173/dp/B00E9G1SO8
 

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I have no idea what model tractor Tony was talking about in that other post that you referenced, but your Ford 335 tractor never had glow plugs. And it never had a timer relay.

There was a cold weather starting aid called a Therm-O-Start, which was an option and is not needed above 40 degrees or so if everything else is working properly.

The starter should spin the engine when you turn the key to the start position if the shifter is in neutral so that the neutral safety switch is engaged.

If you have been turning the key repeatedly when it would make a clicking sound but not start and now it doesn't make a clicking sound any longer, my guess for the change in behavior would be that the battery no longer has enough charge to make it click.

First, make sure that the battery is good and that it is fully charged.

Then make sure that all of the connections at both ends of both battery cables are clean, bright and tight. Take each connection apart and make sure they are clean and dry and bright and then reconnect them and tighten them. Then do the same with both ends of the cable between the starter solenoid and the starter.

Next try to start it. If it just clicks then it could be the starter solenoid. To test that, put the fuel shutoff in the off position and put the transmission in neutral, and then use a jumper cable to jump directly from the battery to the starter to see if the starter will engage the bendix and spin the engine.

Once you've gotten that far, report back with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
i know what you mean by turning the key and click click click and you know you have a bad solenoid or battery. but that's not what i was tying to say. its when i turn the key on to the on position it would make a click sound somewhere under the firewall or below the key area. at this point the key is not at the point where it would engage and make the starter go. i would always turn key on and hear a click sound and wait several seconds and then then i turn the key the rest the way (run position) to engage the starter. which at that point the starter would engage and crank over just fine and start. now when i turn the key to on position i don't hear the click sound and when i turn the rest the way the starter engages and cranks the motor over just fine. yet it wont fire up. the click sound wasn't ever at the solenoid area so i figure the clicking sound is a relay or the safety switch and is why its not starting. i put a brand new battery in and went thru all the wiring. the tractor cranks over just fine. i bled the entire fuel system and everything is flowing to the tank when its cranking over. would the safety switch make a click sound when key turn to the on position? is there a way to bypass it? Thanks again for your help. much appreciated.

i figured tony was talking about a 335 tractor. i read here (now i copy and paste i see its a JD 335..oops, make sense now ha ha because i never found anything about my tractor having glow plugs :) )
https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/1098322-335-doesnt-like-cold-weather.html#registrationstep=2
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so if its cranking over it should start then? i do remember in the past shifting out of neutral it would make a clicking sound when you put it back in neutral. so you think its the safety switch. how hard is that to change?
 

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If the starter is turning the engine then the neutral safety switch is working.

Halfway between run and start is the "heat" position. You need to hold the key there against the spring tension for about 30 seconds before you turn it to the start position for the Therm-O-Start system to be able to do its thing. To determine if you even have one on that tractor, look at the intake manifold near where the tube form the air cleaner connects to it. There should be a small device approximately the size of a spark plug, with an electrical wire and a fuel line going to it. When you hold the key in the "heat" position an electrical heating element heats up red hot, and the heat causes a spring loaded valve to open so that some fuel dribbles in and comes in contact with the hot element and catches fire, then when you turn the key to "start" and the starter spins the engine the burning fuel gets sucked into the cylinders to heat them so that the engine starts easier. If you disconnect the air cleaner tube from the manifold you can see if the Therm-O-Start is working.

Another thing to check is whether the shut-off handle on the dash is still operating the lever on the injection pump properly. Maybe it became disconnected or the cable broke and it's stuck in the off position at the pump end.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks so much for all your help. Hopefully i can get out this weekend and check everything you mention. as i didn't know any of this. again i really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this issue. Much appreciated.
 

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Agree with the folks above. First I would check the battery. Make sure it is charged and that the terminals are nice and tight. If it is not making any noises at all with a charged battery then there is an ignition or safety snitch issue. Make sure your PTO is not engaged and the tractor is in Neutral. If just your thermo-start system is down, the engine should still turn over and even start on warmer days. Also, make sure you are not low on fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got my Therm-O-Start working. i did have a bad connection and it wasn't working. Cleaned up the connection and now its working good. Well i was wrong i am not getting any fuel to the injectors. i bleed the screw on the fuel filter and bleed at the injector pump. but when i crank the motor over and loosen one of the fitting on the injector there is nothing coming out. nothing coming out of all 3 of them when i check each one. all i get is air. i can hear "ssss" sound when i crank the motor over so it sounds like its pumping. the fuel line that goes over the top of the injectors has a bunch of air bubbles coming out of it when i crank the motor over. i filled the tank all the way up with diesel. Well my battery got drain so i'm going to charge it up this week and try again this weekend. Any tips or suggestion are much appreciated. Thanks for the advice on the Therm-o-Start. works just like you mentioned.
 

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Hopefully a freshly charged battery will let the rest of the air bleed out, but if it had been working and simply stopped, then it shouldn't have gotten any air in there to begin with, so my guess is that a seal in the injector pump went bad and now it's sucking air. The pump probably needs to be rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok thanks. yeah hoping just a bleed issue. but if i have to get the pump rebuilt. is there anything i should know about? do i have to worry about timing issue?
 

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Does your tractor use a electric fuel pump if so maybe it's not working.

The clicking you used to hear when you turned the key to run could have been your fuel shutoff solenoid, if it's not opening the fuel flow then your not going to get any fuel anywhere.
 

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From the parts diagram, it looks like it might have an electric fuel pump, but only if it had an auxiliary fuel tank.

It wouldn't have a fuel shutoff solenoid. It has a mechanical fuel shutoff on the pump that is controlled by a cable with a push/pull handle similar to a choke control for a gas engine of the same time period.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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I could see where the cable housing could move inside the hold down clamp and not let the arm fully open to turn the fuel on.
 

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You mentioned earlier that you bled the fuel system, did you follow the official Ford process in the link you shared above? Is it possible you allowed some air into the system when you bled it?

I've done quite a bit of work on Bosch VE pump diesels (Cummins 12 valve, VW NA and TDI) and this sounds like a classic case of air in the fuel system. If it just cranks and cranks with no hint of even trying to start, that's usually the problem.

The VE pump vehicles also have the electric fuel shutoff solenoid so I was thinking the click you used to hear was that solenoid but it appears that this tractor doesn't have one. All automotive diesels I've seen had those as but I don't know tractor diesels. The VW NA diesels had a cold start injection knob on the dashboard that used a cable and linkage to change the timing on the pump manually when needed but the shutoff was electrical via a solenoid.

Anyway, if you followed the official Ford process in the link above and nothing else seems to work, you can try this: Slightly loosen the nuts of the hard fuel lines at the injectors where you heard the air previously and crank the starter 5 seconds at a time until you get a good flow of fuel there. Immediately tighten the nuts back up and see if it will start. It may take a little bit of cranking but if you get some combustion now versus straight cranking, you're on the right path. Just don't burn up your starter, cranking 5 seconds at a time and allowing it to cool between tries. Once one or two cylinders start to fire and the engine is turning on it's own instead of via the starter, generally the other cylinder(s) will pick up as well.

I've seen some bubbles in the clear lines between the filter and the pump and that's not always a problem, if you have bubbles between the pump and injectors, that's more of a problem. Once you get air in the pump, it's really hard to get it out. The only way I've been able to do this is via one of those hand operated vacuum pumps (MityVac) on the injector side of the pump. Be sure you have a steady source for diesel on the filter side of the pump because with the engine off, the mechanical fuel pump will not provide fuel and you'll start pulling air again once you run out of diesel from the filter housing. Once the bubbles have gone, tighten everything up while maintaining vacuum on the circuit as long as you can, and move on to the injector bleed process I mentioned above.

If you can't get the bubbles to mostly clear with the hand vacuum pump and you have not run it out of diesel when using the hand pump, then I would suspect a leak somewhere in the pump or circuit.

This is all based on what I have run into after changing head gaskets and timing belts on VW's (have to disconnect pump lines) so I hope it helps with your tractor. The old NA VW Rabbit diesel engines are really easy to bleed out, the TDI's are really difficult, I don't know how the Ford version is.

I've lost count of how many people I've walked through this process when they ran out of diesel (Both of my boys have owned TDI's, one still still does, and I've told them to NEVER run it out!) or did something to let air into the lines and 99% of the time, this gets them running.

Good luck. I've been thinking about getting a Ford diesel tractor like yours at some point, they seem like good little beasts, and I like diesels way more than gas engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry for the delay, just wanted to let everyone know i got my tractor running yesterday. I ended up putting on a new pump last week. Then i bled it like the Ford manual said and after several cranks over the weekend to get all the air out it fired right up. Yahoo!! Finally. what a relief. I would like to thank NR and everyone for their input and expert advice. it's much appreciated. I learned a lot about my tractor through all this. Thanks again :)
 

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Glad to hear you got it licked. Thanks for posting back as to what fixed it.
 

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Sorry for the delay, just wanted to let everyone know i got my tractor running yesterday. I ended up putting on a new pump last week. Then i bled it like the Ford manual said and after several cranks over the weekend to get all the air out it fired right up. Yahoo!! Finally. what a relief. I would like to thank NR and everyone for their input and expert advice. it's much appreciated. I learned a lot about my tractor through all this. Thanks again :)
Hey there buzzy, I might want to replace my pump in the coming weeks if the seal kit does not do the trick. Where did you get your pump from? Was there anything to look out for when swapping out the pumps? Some say the timing marks are important, did you have to do anything to ensure the timing does not get messed up.
 
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