[WS19677691]

I will give you the details on this 140...a neighbor noticed I liked John Deere tractors after he saw my 1957 620 in my shop one day so he stopped by to tell me about his little garden tractor he might want to sell. He purchased the John Deere new in 1975 serial number 068110M and he said it was one the last few hundred made (not sure).
He said he parked it in his garage in 1995, nothing was wrong with it and the only reason he parked was because he had a lawn service cut his yard due to his health and age.

I decided to go take a look at it and was happy to see it was unmolested, no breaks or welds, still has the original BF Goodrich silvertown tires on it and all the parts were there as far as I could tell, no rust and thank goodness he had it in a garage. Seat was in typical condition for the age.

He said all he ever did with it was cut grass, no other attachments ever used. I'm not sure of the deck size but it does have a john deere tag on the deck reading "H117L". Would this be a 48 or 50 inch cut deck?

I asked him how much? He wanted $800. I said since we live so close how about letting me take it home and see if she will start? He said ok.

I cleaned the plug, replaced the coil, removed the carb and cleaned it with gumout....put in a battery and it started right up.

For a couple of hours it smoked a little but after letting it run for a while it stopped....I was thinking the cylinder may have been rusty from sitting so long....I changed the oil twice to remove any rust or debris and now it runs perfect.

I went back and gave him $800. Was it worth it?

Also, what type of hydraulic oil/Transmission oil should be used? He said he always used RED automatic transmission fluid.

Another question is, on the frame where the muffler hole is drilled in the frame this tractor has another hole drilled below that one. I have looked at hundreds of 140 pictures online the last few days and have not seen any with two holes in the frame.
It looks factory, nice clean cut the same size as the muffler hole. (see pics)

 

[Sergeant]

Yes it looks well worth the money. I paid $1,000 for a 1974 140H3 in 2006 off of ebay. Here's a pic of my 140H3

 

[WS19677691]

Yes it looks well worth the money. I paid $1,000 for a 1974 140H3 in 2006 off of ebay. Here's a pic of my 140H3

Thanks Sergeant for all the great info! That's a nice looking one you found on Ebay....I checked Ebay before I decided to buy this one but only a few were online at the time.

I feel better with your approval on the price, Thanks!

Next week I'm going to give it a total service then use it to mow my yard, lots of life left in her.

 

[bontai Joe]

Really nice condition! Usually the hoods are buggered up in the front pretty bad. I'd say you paid a fair price. That "red" transmission fluid is type "F" automatic transmission fluid. It's what came in them originally. Deere now recommends their Low Viscosity HyGard fluid, but the gurus over at www.weekendfreedommachines.com believe that these older tractors run better and quieter with the type "F". I use type "F" in my 316s. That would be a 48" deck. I have no idea about the extra hole near the muffler, and it looks like you have a slight notch to clear something on the left side as well that's not factory, but ovel all, I'd say it's in better than usual condition. These were originally meant to compete with IH Cub LoBoy tractors to be used on large estates. LOTS of attachments out there for these, from the 54" front plow, to wood chippers, to garden plows and cultivators.

 

[WS19677691]

Really nice condition! Usually the hoods are buggered up in the front pretty bad. I'd say you paid a fair price. That "red" transmission fluid is type "F" automatic transmission fluid. It's what came in them originally. Deere now recommends their Low Viscosity HyGard fluid, but the gurus over at www.weekendfreedommachines.com believe that these older tractors run better and quieter with the type "F". I use type "F" in my 316s. That would be a 48" deck. I have no idea about the extra hole near the muffler, and it looks like you have a slight notch to clear something on the left side as well that's not factory, but ovel all, I'd say it's in better than usual condition. These were originally meant to compete with IH Cub LoBoy tractors to be used on large estates. LOTS of attachments out there for these, from the 54" front plow, to wood chippers, to garden plows and cultivators.

I am learning new things everyday with the help of you guys, thanks for the info.

I have always known the quality of the older john Deere tractors is amazing but now I know even these little guys were built to last.

I have a (home depot special) John Deere L110 with a 17.5 kohler that I have been using the last few years to cut my 2 acre yard and it's already starting to burn oil. Not sure why but Kohler discontinued that motor fairly quickly.

I been using my Cub Cadet lately....this has been a VERY good mower, bought it new in 1994, the little shaft drive AGS 2130 with 12.5 Kohler...Great little motor but my only issue with this mower is the 38" deck is kind of small for my yard.

 

[lt230s]

:MTF_wel:
Nice 140 you picked up there and good shape for the price.
I have no idea either for the extra hole. Maybe at some point changed mufflers? My 110 muffler exits the side panel about where the lower hole is on yours.
Since PO is close, ask him. He should know since he bought it new.
Good luck with it!!!!

 

[Sergeant]

WS19677691. I just noticed in you signature you have the replacement for the Model M a Deere 40. Oh Boy now I'm Jealous. I love the older small Johnny Poppers. :thThumbsU

 

[WS19677691]

:MTF_wel:
Nice 140 you picked up there and good shape for the price.
I have no idea either for the extra hole. Maybe at some point changed mufflers? My 110 muffler exits the side panel about where the lower hole is on yours.
Since PO is close, ask him. He should know since he bought it new.
Good luck with it!!!!

Good idea...I will ask him next time I see him. I'm gonna check out some photos of the 110 and compare them....thanks.

 

[WS19677691]

WS19677691. I just noticed in you signature you have the replacement for the Model M a Deere 40. Oh Boy now I'm Jealous. I love the older small Johnny Poppers. :thThumbsU

Oh yes...It's a little row crop tractor with dual fronts. Pretty good condition, older restoration...3 point etc.

I will take a few pics of it for ya in the next day or two.

 

[WS19677691]

Going to include a update on my progress with the 140 today....Went to the JD dealer this morning to pick up a few parts and my service manual.
Tech book- SM2093 $60.00
Trans Dipstick- AM32616 $47.29
Operators manual- OMM47699 $20.00
Trans Filter- AM39653 $7.26
Spark Plug- $2.15
5 quarts of Type F fluid- $17.49
2 quarts of oil- $7.25
I got home and scanned through the book about changing the trans fluid....without the book I would have spent all day looking for a drain plug.

I used a floor jack on the rear hitch to bump up the rear about 3 feet and removed the rear tire on the left side.....I removed the trans cooling tube like the book said and drained all the fluid....it was nice a clean but I still feel better when I change all fluids myself. Removed and changed filter....reinstalled cooling tube. Luckily I have a really small OLD metal funnel that would fit in the trans filler hole (did they make the hole small enough?).

After 4 quarts I noticed leakage from a small tube sticking up about 3 inches on top of the axle....I figured it must be some type of pressure relief tube, had a small ball on top of it kind of like a pressure cooker. Anyway, I decided to run it in neutral with the 4 quarts to distribute the fluid....after that it took the 5th quart and read full on the dipstick and no more leaking out of the small tube on top.

Changed the oil and learned a lesson....with a mower deck on you must jack the front end up high enough to get a bucket under the tractor to catch the oil....spilled some but got it changed.

She was ready to roll......I drove it around the yard for about 30 minutes and noticed the hydro was working much better..much more responsive!
She was purring like a kitten....

I figured I would cut the yard with it....so i did.

I cut about one whole acre then *POP* the old dry rotted belt from the PTO to the deck BROKE.....I never even thought of checking the belts....they were old.

All I could do was laugh and smile as I drove back to the shop dragging the old belt behind me.....this is part of it. Over the years I have learned to take one day at a time and sooner or later you will have it just right.

I called the JD dealer and both belts are in stock.
One is $30 and the other is $24.....no way I can stop now....she will CUT MY GRASS! lol

 

[WS19677691]

Nothing in my service manual about the deck....if anyone has info on the best way to put the belts on...diagram, tension adjustment etc? I would appreciate it thanks.

 

[x595]

Hi WS19677691 , :Welcome1: !!!

Congratulations on the JD 140 , hope it serves you well ... Thanks for the review on your progress ...

Later,x595

 

[ppc]

Nothing in my service manual about the deck....if anyone has info on the best way to put the belts on...diagram, tension adjustment etc? I would appreciate it thanks.

The adjustment to the belt is all done in the mule drive. There is an indicator on the front left side (as you look at the front), once the belt starts to go under tension it goes up accordingly. Proper belt tension is set with the deck rasied to the highest position and the indicator. If the decal is still on the front, there is a range of about 1" where adjustment is in the proper range. That range is about two-thirds up on the indicator opening.

That stated when you go to install the mule drive you will want the adjustment to it's lowest setting. If the drive is off the tractor you will be able to move the left side pulley back and forth and see where the adjustment screw is. Back it out so the threaded portion is even with the end of the screw shaft. Thread the belt through the pulleys in the mule drive. One loop goes up to the PTO the other loop goes to the mower.

Next mount the mower. Connect the front spring loaded arms first, then the lift arms with the cotter clips. Next I would stick a short piece of 2x4 under the front roller to lift it up slightly. Set the sprint loaded pins out of the holes and turn towards the back. Now mount the mule drive and place the belt over the PTO. Its always handy to have an assistant here that will make sure the belt stays in place over the PTO and the mule drive does not come out of the mountin slots. Next make sure the belt is above the arms on the mule drive. From the right side of the tractor, in a combination move the mule drive arm up and let spring loaded pin slip partially into the arm and at the same time guiding it to the hole. This may require lifting the front of the mower up and down. Do the same on the left side. The belt should now be able to placed around the mower pulley, starting on one side and rotating.

Make sure everything rotates properly and is routed correctly. Start the tractor, raise the mower completely. At this point do the final belt adjustment as described above. Final test engage the PTO, and recheck the belts. When the mover is lowered the adjustment indicator will drop to about an inch above of the bottom of the indicator slot.

Your hand will get tired as the adjustment knob has to be turned many turns and the last of the will get extremely hard to do with a bare hand.

 

[JD40]

WS19677691 ,
I have found another person on this forum that owns a 40. Yay.
JD40

 

[WS19677691]

Hi WS19677691 , :Welcome1: !!!

Congratulations on the JD 140 , hope it serves you well ... Thanks for the review on your progress ...

Later,x595

Thanks bud and you're welcome. I will add updates as I progress....

 

[WS19677691]

WS19677691 ,
I have found another person on this forum that owns a 40. Yay.
JD40

I like my 40 RC but if only I could find a rare "southern special"...been looking for years.

What model is yours?

 

[WS19677691]

The adjustment to the belt is all done in the mule drive. There is an indicator on the front left side (as you look at the front), once the belt starts to go under tension it goes up accordingly. Proper belt tension is set with the deck rasied to the highest position and the indicator. If the decal is still on the front, there is a range of about 1" where adjustment is in the proper range. That range is about two-thirds up on the indicator opening.

That stated when you go to install the mule drive you will want the adjustment to it's lowest setting. If the drive is off the tractor you will be able to move the left side pulley back and forth and see where the adjustment screw is. Back it out so the threaded portion is even with the end of the screw shaft. Thread the belt through the pulleys in the mule drive. One loop goes up to the PTO the other loop goes to the mower.

Next mount the mower. Connect the front spring loaded arms first, then the lift arms with the cotter clips. Next I would stick a short piece of 2x4 under the front roller to lift it up slightly. Set the sprint loaded pins out of the holes and turn towards the back. Now mount the mule drive and place the belt over the PTO. Its always handy to have an assistant here that will make sure the belt stays in place over the PTO and the mule drive does not come out of the mountin slots. Next make sure the belt is above the arms on the mule drive. From the right side of the tractor, in a combination move the mule drive arm up and let spring loaded pin slip partially into the arm and at the same time guiding it to the hole. This may require lifting the front of the mower up and down. Do the same on the left side. The belt should now be able to placed around the mower pulley, starting on one side and rotating.

Make sure everything rotates properly and is routed correctly. Start the tractor, raise the mower completely. At this point do the final belt adjustment as described above. Final test engage the PTO, and recheck the belts. When the mover is lowered the adjustment indicator will drop to about an inch above of the bottom of the indicator slot.

Your hand will get tired as the adjustment knob has to be turned many turns and the last of the will get extremely hard to do with a bare hand.

Ok, thanks......if I understand you correctly I do not have to remove the mule drive to put the belt on.

But I think I will take your advice and remove it first....I noticed a grease fitting in the middle of the mule drive that I could not reach so maybe I should remove it and lubricate the whole thing.

Also.....mine does not have that cover on front of the mule drive with the diagram on it....it just has a nut on it for releasing tension. When I was using the mower the mule drive seemed to be working great but it does have a little wear on one side....when the belt was on and tight the mule drive kind of set toward the left at a slight angle....but other than the old belt breaking it worked....all this tractor has ever done is cut grass.

I will pick up the new belts Monday and let you know how it turned out.

Thanks.

 

[WS19677691]

Uploading a few pics of the mule drive.....will it work like this ok without the cover?

 

[WS19677691]

Couple of pics for Sergeant and JD40 of my two larger ones. So humid here today the camera was fogging up.

 

[bontai Joe]

Uploading a few pics of the mule drive.....will it work like this ok without the cover?

Yep, it will work, but the cover keeps stuff from getting jammed in the belts and possible popping them off. Also it's kind of nice to have that reference when correct tension is achieved, Too tight is as bad as too loose. That threaded rod in the center should have a a knob about 2 1/2" dia approx, to allow adjusting the belt tension.