[NormF]

I run a river cleanup non-profit in Michigan.

We got a 1972 301A JD 3 cylinder GAS Loader donated that hasn't run since 2014. When it last ran, someone put Diesel fuel in it and then, when it choked in a huge cloud of smoke and noise, they drained the diesel and put in gas and used it for a day. Then they put it away and never got it going again.

When I got it, the fuel lines had rotted, and all the fuel had drained out on the ground. That was a good thing. The battery was DOA, the oil smelled "gassy". It was 1 gallon low on antifreeze and the points, condenser, plugs and wiring was not looking good. The alternator was not working (dash light was ON when running). And it's dirty. Very dirty!

I got a new battery, alternator, new oil, filter, gas lines, gas filter, antifreeze (green), condenser, points, plug wires, etc and got it running. Not smoking and idles smoothly. All the hydraulics work.

Questions:
1. How do you check the transmission fluid? What kind of oil do you use for the transmission?
2. How do you check the Hydraulic fluid? What kind of oil do you use for the hydraulic system?
3. There is a small cylindrical tank in front and above of the radiator. It looks like some sort of vacuum system. What is that for? The small tube with the flare fitting has come off and the flare nut is broken and doesn't hold the tube in place any more. I have it held in place with a tubing clamp and some tape. What does that do and how do I fix it?
4. I'm a little embarrassed to ask this one. Which pedal is the clutch? and which is the brake? I'm a city boy and have never driven a tractor. I know where the gas pedal is.
5. I can't find any marks on the harmonic balancer (main lower front engine pulley) or on timing gear cover to time the engine with a timing light. Is there and inspection plate over the flywheel somewhere I am missing? Any suggestions?
6. Can I wash it with a power washer without fear of damage? I know I need to cover and avoid putting water on the alternator.

That's it for now.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Norm Fred
Traverse City, MI

 

[PA318Guy]

Welcome to MTF! Lots of info here and great members to help and share with, enjoy the site. Here is some site navigation assistance in case you need it:

I ran a quick query using the "Community Search" tool at the top of the site here is a link to the results (may not all be for a JD 301a):

Search results for query: 301a | My Tractor Forum

 

[Bebop]

Welcome from Kentucky

 

[GibsonRed]

You should be able to use hytrans in the trans and a good napa hydro oil in the hydraulic system.I can't be positive but the tank your referring to looks like an overflow tank for the cooling system.the timing mark should be on the front pulley it might just need some scraping to find. The tube your holding looks like it goes on the cap on the tank with a Farrell fitting. Where does that tube go from the tank to the side of the rad. Reason being that I'm wondering if it might be a hydro tank.as you can tell just throwing ideas out to you. You could always check with John Deere themselves.

 

[NormF]

You should be able to use hytrans in the trans and a good napa hydro oil in the hydraulic system.I can't be positive but the tank your referring to looks like an overflow tank for the cooling system.the timing mark should be on the front pulley it might just need some scraping to find. The tube your holding looks like it goes on the cap on the tank with a Farrell fitting. Where does that tube go from the tank to the side of the rad. Reason being that I'm wondering if it might be a hydro tank.as you can tell just throwing ideas out to you. You could always check with John Deere themselves.

I can't tell where that tube goes. It goes back toward the rear of the engine.

My guess is that it is an hydraulic overflow since the coolant overflow just goes down and away from the engine.

Thanks for the headsup on the right type of Hydro oil. I have a guy who has a JD and he is also advising me locally.

But he is not familiar with this particular machine and your advice is welcome.

 

[NormF]

I found the timing marks on the front of the engine under about 1/2" of grime and filth. When I have it running, I will take it to the self car washing place and really clean off all that thick, oily grime to expose the parts I need to be able to see.

It's hard to believe they let if get into such a condition. Just because it's a tractor, doesn't mean you can't wash it now and then. Geez!

 

[NormF]

BTW - If the hydraulic oil is low, where do I add oil to fill?

Also, do I fill the reservoir, too?

Thanks.

 

[TrakFan]

Never ever use a high pressure power washer on engines or wheels. Water can be pushed past oil seals and into bearings. If you want to wash it, use a degreaser and low pressure spray from a garden hose. A power washer is for solid parts with no gaskets.m (In fact, painters who use power washers to wash siding often spray upwards, forcing water in behind the siding and cause damage.)

 

[NormF]

Never ever use a high pressure power washer on engines or wheels. Water can be pushed past oil seals and into bearings. If you want to wash it, use a degreaser and low pressure spray from a garden hose. A power washer is for solid parts with no gaskets.m (In fact, painters who use power washers to wash siding often spray upwards, forcing water in behind the siding and cause damage.)

Hmm. Interesting view point. I may use an air compressor to blow a lot of it off and then use the degreaser and water.

 

[GibsonRed]

Can you send some pics of the engine so we can maybe help find the answers you need. If you can locate a hydro line and follow it to the pump that should lead you to the tank by following from pump to tank. The tank on the top by the rad. Could be the hydro tank if it is it will smell like clean oil. Most hydro oil doesn't get very black more like brown.

 

[NormF]

Hi GibsonRed

Here are all the photos I have of the JD-301A Tractor.

JD_301A

I am almost 100% sure that the tank in question is a hydro overflow tank. There is a large pipe going to the pump and I fixed the broken tubing fitting, which was plastic, with a brass compressor flare fitting nut. That photo is not too good but it's in the gallery.

Thanks for your willingness to help me. I do appreciate the knowledge I have gained from this forum already and I expect I will gain more as I run into other problems.

You guys are great.

Norm

 

[TrakFan]

Hmm. Interesting view point. I may use an air compressor to blow a lot of it off and then use the degreaser and water.

Not only my viewpoint. There are a lot of unhappy dirt bike (motorcycle) owners who have washed the mud off their bikes with high pressure washers only to have had grease mixed with water in wheel bearings and ruined chains.

 

[NormF]

Not only my viewpoint. There are a lot of unhappy dirt bike (motorcycle) owners who have washed the mud off their bikes with high pressure washers only to have had grease mixed with water in wheel bearings and ruined chains.

Not only my viewpoint. There are a lot of unhappy dirt bike (motorcycle) owners who have washed the mud off their bikes with high pressure washers only to have had grease mixed with water in wheel bearings and ruined chains.

Ok. Thanks. I'll be careful to avoid bearings.

 

[GibsonRed]

In pic 44 that is where you will fill the hydro oil. That will be a very good machine for you. I always preach this if are a new operator be very careful running around with the fel up in the air and I would not use the loader without counter weight in the back. The foot lever on the left side rear of the foot rest is most likely possy to lock both back wheel if you are stuck or just need more traction.

 

[NormF]

In pic 44 that is where you will fill the hydro oil. That will be a very good machine for you. I always preach this if are a new operator be very careful running around with the fel up in the air and I would not use the loader without counter weight in the back. The foot lever on the left side rear of the foot rest is most likely possy to lock both back wheel if you are stuck or just need more traction.

The cap in Photo #44 is where I filled the engine crankcase after I drained the oil from the engine. That cap is in front of the engine.

BTW, I checked the Trans / Hydro oil level and it is FULL so I do not need to add any at this time.

Can I get confirmation from someone else that this is where the Hydro oil in filled because I don't think that is correct? I sure hope not. I was told by another poster that the filler cap for the trans / hydro oil is behind the seat. I have not found it yet. I found a small plug behind the seat but I didn't remove it yet. I'll get a photo of it today and post it tonight.

I still want to know where the filler cap for the Hydro is even if it doesn't need any now.

There is a counter weight on this machine but it needs more rocks in it to completely fill it.

I plan to use the machine today for a job of moving some sand. I will post the results.

Thanks.

Norm Fred

 

[NormF]

I finished the JD 301A today (with your help). I installed the alternator and it worked as expected. It actually fit better than the one I took off. That was a surprise. The old one had spacers and bushings and the new one fit without any added pieces or parts. It was a perfect fit. I went back to the NAPA parts store to thank the counter guy for being so careful to get the right one for me. That's a rare thing these days.

I covered the new alternator and distributor with small garbage bags held in place with rubber bands and washed the entire machine with a battery powered power washer which was sort of wimpy but which worked great. It removed 75% of the heavy grime and 100% of the dust and dirt. The machine looks a lot better now.

We did discover that the rear wheels are filled with some sort of liquid (my guess is Calcium Chloride which is very corrosive) and we discovered that they are both corroded around the tire air stems. One is much worse than the other. See the new photos I got after we washed it. The liquid has ruined the tire stem valves and that was a problem for us. But we got some air in all the tires.

My Non Profit really didn't need the machine for our every day operation and we had nowhere to store it, but a Parks and Rec organization that works with us did need it and has a nice barn to store it in, so we gave it to them with the understanding that if we need it, we can use it whenever we want to. They jumped on that offer - FAST!

They were over the moon that I got it running and functioning as they wanted. They kept saying, "No more shovels." It was funny.

I will investigate the rear wheel corrosion problem and get back to you. Thanks for your help.

Oh - I did find the Hydro filler cap and I got some photos of it. I also removed the top of the overflow tank (1.25" threaded plug like the oil pan plug - Tight as ****) and it is definitely an oil filled chamber. There is a spring loaded valve in that plug that allows the excess oil to go back into the transmission space. I found the return line.

I got a video of the machine rolling off and I will post a link to that here:

http://www.brcleansweep.org/2022_0601_JD_301A_small/DSCN0763.MP4

The earlier link will show all the photos now- before and after.

JD_301A

Thanks again.

Norm Fred

 

[PA318Guy]

You got everything working before I caught back up, great work! Anyways if you need to reference any parts breakdowns in the future here is the JD online parts catalog for your 301A :

John Deere Parts Catalog -301A Tractor and Loader

 

[NormF]

You got everything working before I caught back up, great work! Anyways if you need to reference any parts breakdowns in the future here is the JD online parts catalog for your 301A :

John Deere Parts Catalog -301A Tractor and Loader

Wow! Thanks for this resource. I'll save this link. This is GREAT!

 

[NormF]

I'm pretty sure we will be replacing those corroded rear wheels in the near future and I am researching that job. Any help in that department will be appreciated. One looks like it will blow any day. We didn't fully inflate that one for fear of an explosive failure. It is really scary looking.

Getting the fluid out safely and getting those tires off so we can salvage them is going to be something I have never tackled. I am pretty sure we will have to take them to a tire Company for that work.

Have any of you done that replacement on big rear wheels that are just the rims and don't have the centers?

 

[Newsman]

Take a look at this thread. 1947 Farmall Cub project Along with cleaning up the rims cjet69 also mentions patching an area around the valve stem similar to what you are showing. Think that's on the first page.
MikeC