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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this tractor last fall, it had been inside a shed for an unknown amount of time. The original owner passed away, and his nephew was selling everything in, and around, the house. It's a 1972 SS15, model number 917.25381 with a 15hp Briggs model number 325431. The hood and grill were removed when I got it, as was the carb (which was sitting in an old plastic bowl with some dried up crud). Everything seems to be in great shape.

I am just getting around to working on it and am trying to remove the tank and change the fuel lines. Do I have to take a lot of parts of to get at the straps that hold on tank? Access seems pretty limited.

I also plan to change the oil, rebuild the carb and possibly rebuild the fuel pump.

I'm looking for some help on getting the fuel tank out so I can change the lines, and any other help/hints that you have to offer. I will post some pictures soon.

Tony
 

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I bought this exact same tractor for my friend a couple of months ago!

Tanks are a real pain to get off if(like every other person thats owned these suburbans) didn't move the bolts back to the top and left them at the stock position. A few other members might have a trick for getting them off, but I've always had to remove the starter generator to get to them. The area under the batt/tank is hard to navigate, but if you've got a few flexible extensions, you might be able to grab some meat on them.

I ended up cutting mine off and ordered a new set. Dont remember where I got them, but that's what I did. I can check for you. I re-built the carb on my SS/14 and re-ran all of the lines. I added an in-line fuel filter also, which you might want to do since it sounds like you're putting some time in with the lines. There's a bracket coming off the side of the engine above the pulley that holds the exhaust arm; where that mounts, to the side of the engine I used a clamp(coming off of the mount) to hold fuel lines and the wire coming from the points box. Looks clean and is safe, since that area is less then an inch from the belt drive.

I've seen a number of people not secure the filter, the lines or the wire and it eventually found its way onto the belt, not good. Also, when you re-run your lines make sure you give yourself enough line slack at the bottom of the tank so you can pull the tank up in order to gain accesss. I didn't leave enough slack and it was a real pain when I needed access.

Have anymore questions let us know! More then happy to help.
 

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You're in luck if you wanted to just cut them off, Sears still sells them. $6.68 a piece. Type your model number into searspartsdirect.com and it's #73 on the diagram.

Strap, fuel tank
Number:9770H
Substitution:31979
Manufacturer authorized substitution: 31979 may differ in appearance, but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including 9770H.

Oh, another bit of advice. Briggs and Stratton still sells the carb re-build kit and other parts for your tractor. Check the side of the engine shroud for the BS number and you can order from there site!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Joe, I went back and looked at the fuel lines and I can see what you mean. I will take your advice and use a clamp there.

I managed to get one strap off, not having much luck with the second. I'm going to give it one more try, then I'll just cut it off.

Giving it my first close inspection today, it looks pretty good to my very untrained eye. I did notice that it seems hard to get at the plug for the trans fluid also. Looks like I need to remove the wheel and maybe the fender. That will be next on my list. Going to pick up some oil and a spark plug now.

I bought the operator's manual from another site and have it in PDF if you want a copy (or if anyone else does), PM me an e-mail and I'll send it to you.

Thanks for the help, I probably would have spent hours on the straps and felt kind of dumb for not being able to get them off!

Tony
 

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It's beyond me why Sears put the fill plug and drain plug where they did. They're impossible to get to! I like the idea of putting an extension on it as long as you can check the level. Tony, for some of the trans' that I've changed the oil on, the plugs were "froze" and locked tight. Probably from wear and time. Most of these I've encountered never had the oil changed on them.

The metal that the drain plug is made out of is very soft. I've had to abandon a few of them because they wouldn't budge and or the square head turned into scrap after trying to unlock it. Easy does it on the plug if you're going to change the oil :trink40:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
SS12- great idea! I think I'll make the same thing and remove it when I'm done, I'm sure I'd find a way to break it off if I left it.

Joe- my plug was not too bad to get out, but when I put it back in, about 1/8" of thread is still showing. Didn't notice how far in it was when I took it out. I can't turn it any farther for fear of stripping the head. Think that's ok?

I'm waiting for a friend to return my Dremel Multi-max so I can see how that does cutting the straps. Never used it on metal. Got two new straps from Sears yesterday, figured an extra might come in handy some day. Thanks for the info on buying those.

Tony
 

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It's beyond me why Sears put the fill plug and drain plug where they did. They're impossible to get to! I like the idea of putting an extension on it as long as you can check the level.
If you put an extension on and want to check the level, you could take any old dipstick, and measure the length from the top of the extension tube (with the plug removed) to the elbow that goes into the transmission- (sears says top off fluid to the bottom of elbow)- then cut the dipstick to that length... that would allow you to read the level. Fill to desired level and replace the top plug. Should work slick! I like the extension idea as long as it does not get in the way.


Joe, i broke a bolt in the rear end on my 18/6 last night... GRRRR :Disgus: need to drill and tap. You are right, you are so lucky if they all come out when removing the rear end.
 

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Dont try overtightening the filler or drain plugs,they are tapered pipe threads,and will split the aluminum tranny case wide open if overtorqued!..just a 1/4 turn past snug is plenty..if it leaks use teflon tape or pipe dope on it instead of cranking it in tighter!..
 

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the tires and hitch are further back then the fill tube. and they clear the 3pt with plenty of room.
 

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Thanks for the manual
 

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It's beyond me why Sears put the fill plug and drain plug where they did. They're impossible to get to! I like the idea of putting an extension on it as long as you can check the level. Tony, for some of the trans' that I've changed the oil on, the plugs were "froze" and locked tight. Probably from wear and time. Most of these I've encountered never had the oil changed on them.

The metal that the drain plug is made out of is very soft. I've had to abandon a few of them because they wouldn't budge and or the square head turned into scrap after trying to unlock it. Easy does it on the plug if you're going to change the oil :trink40:
GUYS GUYS! I know this is a very old post, but I feel compelled to answer this question, to keep others for being misled into ill advised modification! I am a 71 year old newbie to this forum. I am in the beginning of a total restore of my fathers 1972 SS15 he bought new around 1973. There is a very good reason for why the oil fill fitting is where it is, actually what it is, and why it is so short and stubby! It is is strategically located at a point close to where the 'engineered' FULL internal level of the oil located. It is a simple soft galvanized iron pipe male to female 1/2 pipe elbow. Cheap and stocked at every plumbing department in the USA! The engineers calculated the FULL oil level point of the transaxle needed and the elbow port was located at a point where it spills over when full!! No dipstick needed and you cannot overfill it! It leaks back down to FULL, then you insert the square plug! If you add an extension, you cannot tell when it is full and will most likely overfill it!
 
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