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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #1
I don't think I posted this one here recently. This is a 1969 Suburban 12 I got as part of payment for a tractor I restored for a buddy. It had no motor, so I did a SS16 battery tray swap, and dropped in my "new" 10hp All Power diesel. I bought this motor I think 3 years ago, and never started it. It has been swapped into I think 3 machines before I decided to put it in this one. I finally got an intake manifold and Exhaust adapter for 1" NPT built yesterday, so here is an update video.

 
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I just Googled that engine and wasn't able to find any for sale, are they still available? Pretty cool project.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #3
I just Googled that engine and wasn't able to find any for sale, are they still available? Pretty cool project.
The place I bought mine from had a pallet of them, was selling them for $299 free shipping. I wish I bought three. Haven't seen any for sale since. Next lowest price is about $679 for another chinese knockoff
 

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The place I bought mine from had a pallet of them, was selling them for $299 free shipping. I wish I bought three. Haven't seen any for sale since. Next lowest price is about $679 for another chinese knockoff

Yea I saw the ones for $679 is that the same engine? For $299 and free shipping i'd probably have bought 2-3 of them.
 

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What are the dimensions of that engine? Oldram, can you post a link to the engines you found?
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
What are the dimensions of that engine? Oldram, can you post a link to the engines you found?
For comparison, it is bigger than the 14 and 15 hp single cylinder cast iron Briggs that they put in sears. The challenge with these motors, is as you can see in my video, making the intake and exhaust work. More the intake than anything as it comes out the opposite side of the motor as the exhaust, unlike the Tecs and Briggs were they were 90 degrees from each other.

A similar motor to what I have is: 10 hp air cooled diesel
The motors themselves you can buy from China direct for about $300, but the freight kills you. If you got 10 guys together, and each chipped in an bought a pallet or two, the price might be close to $450 -$500 per unit.

Often times, you can find deals on used Yanmar L70 engines on ebay too- Around $500. Many are military refurbs with intake heaters as well! The L70 is a great motor!
 

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Have you thought about putting a glow plug or the Power Stroke style heater in the intake side to help with cold starting?
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #9
Have you thought about putting a glow plug or the Power Stroke style heater in the intake side to help with cold starting?
Nope. I like them simple If it won't start I use just a whiff of starting fluid, and it always goes. I have one with a glow plug, and I never hooked it up
 

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You can find these "waste nut flanges" at a well stocked plumbing supply store,and some hydraulic pumps also used them,so places that sell hydraulic parts might stock them also..saves time making one from scratch..I've used them to put pipe thread mufflers on engines that had the 2 bolts to use a bolt on muffler,that had their exhaust port threads stripped out--the bolt holes lined up perfect..
waste nut flange.jpg


The intake flange with 3 bolts looks like an exhaust manifold flange like old Chevy's used,but they would probably have a wider bolt pattern and the center hole is at least 2"..but I bet some searching in an exhaust catalog's listings may have one suitable off some import car that would work if someone was not able to fab up their own like you did..
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #11
You can find these "waste nut flanges" at a well stocked plumbing supply store,and some hydraulic pumps also used them,so places that sell hydraulic parts might stock them also..saves time making one from scratch..I've used them to put pipe thread mufflers on engines that had the 2 bolts to use a bolt on muffler,that had their exhaust port threads stripped out--the bolt holes lined up perfect.. View attachment 2444453

The intake flange with 3 bolts looks like an exhaust manifold flange like old Chevy's used,but they would probably have a wider bolt pattern and the center hole is at least 2"..but I bet some searching in an exhaust catalog's listings may have one suitable off some import car that would work if someone was not able to fab up their own like you did..
the holes are offset, so those flanges probably wouldn't work.
 

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Cityboy
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I like what you did and want to do the same to my custom 8 but the rotation the the engine is wrong so how will the transmission work with it spinning backwards.
 

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On Customs the wheels rotate the opposite of the engine and the direction is changed in the final drive gears. Roger
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #14
I like what you did and want to do the same to my custom 8 but the rotation the the engine is wrong so how will the transmission work with it spinning backwards.
The rotation of the engine is exactly the same. The flywheel side rotates clockwise on every small engine I have encountered, diesel or gas. I've run Kohlers, Tecumsehs, Onans, Briggs, These chinese diesels, predators, greyhounds, duromax, honda... They all spin in the same direction.
 

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Cityboy
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Thank you, I am now more educated then I was yesterday. I thought the output shaft side turned clockwise.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #16

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #17
Got a lot more done on this machine over the last couple weeks.
Drive pulley on, drive belt on, idler pulley swapped, general check-over, and I de-thatched my lawn with it, and mowed with it over the weekend too.

It is exceptionally nimble to mow with being that it still has narrow tires and stuff, and has plenty of power and rpm. Its almost boring how anti-climatic it is. The main issue is, it's super loud. So I am redesigning the air intake, and putting a turnout on the muffler to start,and if it's still too loud, I will put a glasspack muffler or something similar on it.


 
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That belt guide probably is designed to rub on the belt slightly,mostly when it is slack,when you push in the clutch pedal--helps keep the belt from turning the transaxle pulley ,and gears clashing when you shift,along with the "shoe" on the clutch idler pulley..

I use nuts for spacers often..don't care about looks,if I'm fussy I could always grind the hex off until its round ,then it'll look like a spacer..looks better than a stack of washers..1/8" pipe makes good spacers for 3/8" bolts..

(I used U-bolts on my truck's rear leaf springs made for a 2" lift and they did not have enough threads to work without lift blocks,on one side I used 3/4" "coupling nuts" as spacers,on the other I had to resort to using about 25 washers on each of the 4 threaded ends..the guy at the inspection sticker shop last year nearly had a stroke when he noticed them,but I told him "you gave me a sticker with it this way the past 2 years"--he replied "Then I see NOTHING"..like Sgt. Schultz!..and passed it again..!)..

I've fought with the drive belts on my Suburbans many times--using a 5L series belt which is a bit thicker than 5/8" width does make it a pain to get it past that fender bolt--I have taken the bolt out (real pain to do so!) and flipped it so the nut is facing the tire,that way the thinner bolt head is facing the pulley and you have more room to snake the belt up past it..and yeah,if the rear mower deck mount isn't off ,you'll be hard pressed to get the belt on or off.

I hate replacing belts on these,but I've done worse..hoisting the rear of the tractor up with my truck's crane makes it much easier--but I have had to replace one way out in the woods when it fell off and got mangled after a twig got caught up in it..only took a few hours..:/

I like the diesels sound..the "kuh-kuh-kuh" makes them sound a lot more powerful than the gas engines when you rev them up..the high compression is audible..:)
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
the diesel 10hp feels like it has as much torque as a 16 or even 18hp Onan. I was hitting 8" tall grass, and it wasn't even chuffing any soot at all. This motor is brand new, only had about 5 hours on it, so It's probably due for an oil change, and I am using regular on-road diesel, so it burns clean. Only blows smoke under heavy load or if I rev it up from idle in high gear.
 

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It sounds like it has a long stroke,which will give more low end torque over a gas engine with a short stroke that relies on higher RPMS to get the maximum HP and torque..
Old Wisconsin engines were designed that way..long stroke and fairly big bore = more low end lugging ability..

My 6.2 is only 140 HP and feels sluggish on hills ,especially if you need to take off from a dead stop--truck is pretty high geared ,so it struggles some to get up to speed..but its low end torque is a lot better than a comparable V8 ,a 305 is about equal in HP and torque,but the higher compression of the diesel makes it feel much stronger just past idle compared to a gas engine..its great for plowing snow,it has the guts to push good without too much HP to spin the tires..another plus is being mechanical fuel injection means no stalling out on steep hills or driving off camber,no flooding or fuel starvation like a carb would have under those conditions..very desirable on a tractor!..
 
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