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1967 ford, 4400, hydraulic issues

2487 Views 16 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  pacwolf
I am new to tractors and tractor repair and found lots of information on 3 point not raising but not lowering.

I may have 2 issues or just one. Here they are.

1) The control level is in down position but the 3 pt raises when the tractor is started. When the tractor is turn off the 3 pt will not lower. It takes about 4-6 weeks before the Gannon/Box Blade attached to the 3 pt will finally lower all the way down. When I pull the control lever up to raise even through the 3 pt is already up it seems that it binds as if something is broke inside somewhere.

2)The bucket works but has issues with jerking when lower and lifting. It is better after changing the hydraulic fluid but still has the jerking when raising and lowering the bucket.

Question I have and appreciate any advice or suggestion. 1)Would this be Lift cover issue where there is some blockage inside the lift cover?

2)Or could this also be a something broken inside the lift control arm if something is broke. Can the lift control arm be worked on without removing the lift cover?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
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The 3 point lift and front end loader on that tractor should have two separate hydraulic systems, so the two issues should not be related. The front end loader should be powered by a pump that is mounted on the front of the tractor down below the grill that is powered via a shaft from the crankshaft pulley, and the reservoir should be inside the loader frame. The 3 point hydraulic pump should either be, depending on which transmission and PTO options it has, on the left side of the tractor as you're sitting on the seat at the rear of the engine near the flywheel, or inside the right side of the rear axle center housing, and the reservoir for the 3 point hydraulics is the sump of the rear axle itself.

The 3 point problem sounds like a stuck unloader valve, which is under the 3 point hydraulics top cover. The top cover is the large piece of cast steel that the seat bolts to and that also has the upper lift arms and 3 point control quadrant coming out of it. You are going to need to pull the top conver and remove the unloader valve and clean it with some extra fine emory cloth to get it unstuck. While you have the top cover off I would recommend doing a full R&R of all of the o-rings and seals iunder there as well as making all of the recommended control linkage adjustments that are in the service manual. If you do not have one, get yourself a Service Manual. You can eiter get an original Ford Service Manual or an I&T after market service manual. The I&T FO-31 manual covers the 3 cylinder 2000/3000/4000 series ag chassis models, but the 3 point hydraulics on your 4400 are the same as on the ag chassis 4000 model so it will cover what you need to do.

Which fluid and filter did you change when you said that the loader issue was better after you changed them? If they were in the rear axle under the top cover then that shouldn't have affected the loader at all. If it was the fluid in the frame of the loader and the filter inside the loader frame up on top of the bottom plate below the left upright of the loader frame then those were the correct fluid and filter changes. If it is still jerky after that then I would guess that either there is still gunk inside there that might be clogging tjhings up, or there are some internal seals or o-rings that are bad either inside of the cylinders or inside the control valve.
Thank you for the quick reply. The fluid level was low so I filled up the rear axle, transmission and power steering with Super S Super Trac Hydraulic transmission fluid. They were all very low.

1-The power steering right side worked as it supposed to as it was hard to turn before this. That part is fixed now.
2-The bucket worked better after warming up but still has some jerking. I didn't do anything with the filter on the bucket side as I didn't know it had one. So I will look into this and maybe drain and refill and see what comes out.
3-The 3 pt. after filling it up the first time did the same lift goes up automatically even if the lever and draft is in the down position. I then drained the rear axle fluid, lots of sludge came out as well as a metal ring but only have of it. Not sure if this was always in there are maybe something new. I refilled with VP racing UltraJ20A Plus Utility tractor fluid since the other fluid wasnt in stock anymore, hoping that this would fix it. Nothing new happened. It takes about 6 weeks when under a load (box gannon attached) before the lift arms come all the way down so I can remove the Box Gannon. The metal ring looks like maybe some kind of snap ring but not sure where it may have come off of. Added photos of this metal ring and size. Would you have an idea where I need to look to see if this was a broken part of just something that was in the axle and never removed before?

Would I be able to lift the cover under the seat if the arms are not all the way down?

Once i Have the 3 pt fixed I will work on the bucket area and check the filter. Can the filter be cleaned or does it need replaced?

Thank you for all your information. The other 2 forums I posted a week ago I recieved only one reply saying control valve is binding perhaps from corrosion. That wasn't much help. Your information is so much more information and guidance. Thank you again


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Thanks for the heads up on the oil spray. I just will have to wait till the arms are lowered and then remove the cover. I will get my gasket and o rings ordered so I have it on hand before I remove the cover. Thank you
I have a question on removing the bolts. The photo below show the remote Control part removed and there is a bolt under it see photo 1. Does this need removed before lifting the Cover?

I have the other 12 bolts identified that needs removed I marked each on so i can put them back in the correct places-see photo 2.

Also the remote control had a tag number on it can someone identify what it means photo 3.

thank you.


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The 3pt arms lowered itself after I started unbolting the remote control assembly.
I have a service manual now. I started to lift the cover and it stops about 4 inches up. the right side front looks like some tube is also there but when i hit about 5 inch up it seems to bind and not able to lift off.

Any ideas from anyone on what I may have missed. I went by the directions from the service manual. I dont want to force it up until I know what is going on with this. I have not found anything about this tube if it also comes out or suppose to stay in yet.
The back end goes up no problem and then the front right corner starts to lift very little and front left doesn't.
I have found the issue. The Flow control upper tube that goes into the front right side of the Lift control Cover needed to be pushed down out of the lift cover. As soon as this was done the lift cover was free to remove. See photo below..

Now I can try and figure out what is wrong, why the lift wont lower. I see my Spring maybe an issue as it does look compressed and found my turnbuckle was not inside the control valve when I removed the lift cover.
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Thanks for your help. I will see what I need to do to remove, un-stick control valve next. I have a lift cover gasket kit with O rings on order so there should be O rings for the control valve in there right?
I was finally able to get the control valve removed and your correct there is no O ring for it.

Excerpts from the I&T FO-31 Shop Manual states to remove the Control Valve, I need to unbolt the 2 bolts from the rear plate and remove it then I can remove the spring and control valve. (This didn't work. The rear plate will not come off).

This conflicts with the Ford 1965-1975 Ford Tractor Service Manual Tractor Series 2000-5550. This manual states that the 3 bolts from the front cover plate needs to be removed. Then the 2 bolts on the rear cover plate. Then the plate has to come off the same time as the control valve and spring. (This worked better). I was not able to move the control valve and had to put a wedge between the case and rear plate slowly and the control valve did move a little but no more. I pushed the valve back in side the case. I used a small wood piece and placed it on the front side of the control valve where the 3 bolts where and hand tapped it.


The control valve pushed itself out the rear side where I could now remove it all together the rear plate valve and spring together.

It looks like there is some burnt fluid that may have caused it to stick. see control valve, plate and spring photo after removal. What is the best way to clean any of this off the valve?
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the Lift cover is back on and all o rings replaced. the Tractor works better and more responsive then before . Thanks for everyone's ideas and help.
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