My Tractor Forum banner

1967 ford, 4400, hydraulic issues

2494 Views 16 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  pacwolf
I am new to tractors and tractor repair and found lots of information on 3 point not raising but not lowering.

I may have 2 issues or just one. Here they are.

1) The control level is in down position but the 3 pt raises when the tractor is started. When the tractor is turn off the 3 pt will not lower. It takes about 4-6 weeks before the Gannon/Box Blade attached to the 3 pt will finally lower all the way down. When I pull the control lever up to raise even through the 3 pt is already up it seems that it binds as if something is broke inside somewhere.

2)The bucket works but has issues with jerking when lower and lifting. It is better after changing the hydraulic fluid but still has the jerking when raising and lowering the bucket.

Question I have and appreciate any advice or suggestion. 1)Would this be Lift cover issue where there is some blockage inside the lift cover?

2)Or could this also be a something broken inside the lift control arm if something is broke. Can the lift control arm be worked on without removing the lift cover?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
1 - 6 of 17 Posts
The 3 point lift and front end loader on that tractor should have two separate hydraulic systems, so the two issues should not be related. The front end loader should be powered by a pump that is mounted on the front of the tractor down below the grill that is powered via a shaft from the crankshaft pulley, and the reservoir should be inside the loader frame. The 3 point hydraulic pump should either be, depending on which transmission and PTO options it has, on the left side of the tractor as you're sitting on the seat at the rear of the engine near the flywheel, or inside the right side of the rear axle center housing, and the reservoir for the 3 point hydraulics is the sump of the rear axle itself.

The 3 point problem sounds like a stuck unloader valve, which is under the 3 point hydraulics top cover. The top cover is the large piece of cast steel that the seat bolts to and that also has the upper lift arms and 3 point control quadrant coming out of it. You are going to need to pull the top conver and remove the unloader valve and clean it with some extra fine emory cloth to get it unstuck. While you have the top cover off I would recommend doing a full R&R of all of the o-rings and seals iunder there as well as making all of the recommended control linkage adjustments that are in the service manual. If you do not have one, get yourself a Service Manual. You can eiter get an original Ford Service Manual or an I&T after market service manual. The I&T FO-31 manual covers the 3 cylinder 2000/3000/4000 series ag chassis models, but the 3 point hydraulics on your 4400 are the same as on the ag chassis 4000 model so it will cover what you need to do.

Which fluid and filter did you change when you said that the loader issue was better after you changed them? If they were in the rear axle under the top cover then that shouldn't have affected the loader at all. If it was the fluid in the frame of the loader and the filter inside the loader frame up on top of the bottom plate below the left upright of the loader frame then those were the correct fluid and filter changes. If it is still jerky after that then I would guess that either there is still gunk inside there that might be clogging tjhings up, or there are some internal seals or o-rings that are bad either inside of the cylinders or inside the control valve.
See less See more
You can remove the top cover with the arms raised, but it's better to do it with the arms lowered. You have to jiggle it around in order to get it off because when the arms are raised the ram from the piston is extended and pushing the cup on the rocker rearward, so it won't lift straight off, and so you have to jiggle it towards the front of the tractor as it comes off, and then once you have it on the bench and start to remove the unloader valve you will get sprayed with the fluid that is still inside the cylinder as it releases.
That bolt under the remote valve does not need to be removed to remove the lift cover. That is the access to the relief valve if my memory serves... you really should get a service manual if you don't have one.
When it binds can you tell where it's binding (front, left, right, rear)? Does one end or corner raise more than the opposite side or corner right as it begins to bind?
Glad to hear you got it off successfully. Sounds like the control valve itself might have been stuck in the "lift" position even though the external handle was in the down position if the linkage wasn't connected properly.
I don't believe that the control valve has any o-rings inside. It is a machined fit and there were apparently several sizes available and are color coded, so if you need to replace it you would need to either know the color if it is still on there, or you would need to measure it with a micrometer to ensure you order the correct one. I believe the sizes are ranges such that if it falls between the two numbers for a particular color, then that color is what you need:

Valve & Sleeve Assy., Control, .5917/.5919 (15.029/15.034mm) White
Valve & Sleeve Assy., Control, .5919/.5921 (15.034/15.039mm) Blue
Valve & Sleeve Assy., Control, .5921/.5923 (15.039/15.044mm) Yellow
Valve, .5925/.5926 (15.050/15.052mm) Green, Also Order Sleeve C5NN8875D
Valve & Sleeve Assy., .5927/.5928 (15.054/15.057mm) Orange
1 - 6 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.