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Discussion Starter #21
Need to retake the measurements on the crank pin. It is possible I read the mic wrong, using my bad eye.

RB
That is exactly what happened, the mic lines are too close for my eyes.

The interference is .002, in the middle of the spec range. Parts are ordered...…

RB
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Crank assembled, sent it out to a local shop for truing. They perform awesome work. Already sent one crank to them for truing and they dialed it right in for only a small fee. They have been truing Harley cranks for the past 30 years.....

Found the cause of the metal burrs, the axles clearance did not exist grinding down the thrust pin in the swifty. I did a total teardown and the tranny parts are in great shape. This one will be difficult to part with, need to find the right person to own this one.

RB
 

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Truing flywheels is not rocket science. Using 2 pieces of channel iron with a hole drilled in the center and a threaded rod mounted 90 degrees to the crank pin will get you real close. The outer edges of the flywheel are machined square to the shafts. Using a straight edge, make sure the two flywheels are square to each other. They will be out of alignment in three ways. 1, The flywheels will not be square 90 degrees from the crank pin. 2, The flywheels will be wider 180 degrees from the crank pin. The straight edge will contact the outer edge of the flywheel near the pin. 3, The flywheels are narrower 180 degrees from the crank pin. The straight edge will contact the inner edge of the flywheel near the pin. To fix #1 use a big hammer and a block of wood again 90 degrees from the pin. To fix #2 use a large C clamp to push the wheels together. To fix #3 use a wood or plastic wedge to spread them apart. That is all that's needed for an engine that runs less than 3000 rpm. If you want to get closer, mount the flywheel between two centers. A lathe, something fab'ed on a drill press or a truing stand and measure the shafts near the flywheel using a dial indicator, or simply a pointer
 

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That is exactly what happened, the mic lines are too close for my eyes.

The interference is .002, in the middle of the spec range. Parts are ordered...…

RB
I have to use a magnifying glass to even read magazines anymore.
Have 4 pr. of script glasses but they just dont work for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It is great to have a network of friends who are always there to help.

For a while I have had an over abundance of work and it may take another year before I will have time to relax. Juggling family, homes and wrenching is keeping me on the run. Knowing who you can count on to help reduce the pressure of meeting deadlines is team effort which I have always used. At my former work the position I had I relied on many teams. I have no set completion date but Vetern's Day seems realistic. Provided an emergent priority appears.

As of today the tractor is in total tear down. Timken bearings and cups have been ordered. Axle seals are next. Will be cleaning the inside of the swifty next and installing for calculating the clearance. Will remove swifty and install the worm. Then I will permanently install the swifty. Process steps I use to measure the swifty bearing clearance. No worm error this method...…

RB
 

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Discussion Starter #27
During the assembly of the crankshaft I usually put the pin in the freezer for a couple of days, then buy some dry ice and let the pin sit in that for about 6 hours.

I did a net search and found this item at Grainger's. Tried it instead of the dry ice and found it to be easy to work with. Same price as the dry ice, able to apply as much as needed and will be able to multiple cranks with what is left in the can.

RB
 

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I did a net search and found this item at Grainger's.
Fascinating. I hadn't heard of that stuff.

It looks like it gets down to only -55F as opposed to the -100F or so you get with dry ice. But it should be easier to deal with!

I wonder how much thermal mass it has. Did you find that it cooled the part effectively, IOW once you finished spraying the MS242 on it, you were able to assemble the crank with no excess force?
 

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Wont some stuff like types of steel crack if real cold and it gets struck with something?
But Im not a 'internal mechanic", I have mine all taken apart exept for the internal stuff and I cant even get it put back together and if not for Ensonova's great video's where the camera doesnt move around and get dropped and all I wouldnt have hardly any of it back together.
Good luck man!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
It looks like it gets down to only -55F as opposed to the -100F or so you get with dry ice. But it should be easier to deal with!

I wonder how much thermal mass it has. Did you find that it cooled the part effectively, IOW once you finished spraying the MS242 on it, you were able to assemble the crank with no excess force?
Even with it cooling it down below -10, I found the amount of force required was remarkably less than I had used on other crank pins. I have no means to measure applied force. It went together with ease, like there was no interference.

I do have a temp gun and will measure the temp with the next one I assemble.

RB
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Wont some stuff like types of steel crack if real cold and it gets struck with something?

Good luck man!
The crank pin was already chilled, like at -10F for a couple of days in the freezer. Bringing it down to maybe -40F is only a 30F change. Time will tell if this is to rapid of a change but I believe it will be harmless.

RB
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Got the call, crank is ready. When I picked it up it was trued to the Harley spec, within .0025". It took him about an hour of shop time but he charged me a lot less. I do mean less. He enjoys working on stuff I bring (fitting the oil pump shaft to a new bushing)….

I placed the crank in the fixture I have and found his work to be as stated. This fixture is different and I use it with the straight edge, dial indicator and dial caliper methods of checking trueness.

A Gravely owner out in NW Conn had manufactured this fixture and was willing to part with it. I realize it is not the traditional method of truing but I it works for me until I locate something better.

RB
 

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Looks good to me for what little I know about it but as it turns you can see if it true or not, wether or not its able to be measured I dont know but you'd think it would be close.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Bottom end has been assembled, had issues but were identified and resolved.

The flywheel when rotated would hit the idler gear bearing bolt when rotated. Just one localized spot on the flywheel. At first I was checking the flywheel clearance to the block casing, then the idler gear teeth. Split the casing and removed the crank assembly and inserted an extra timing pinion shaft into the casing. No noise!
That eliminated the teeth as the cause. Installed the flywheel and the checked the inside edge of the flywheel. Found it! The idler gear bolt was hitting the flywheel. The interference was slight, just enough to cause a clunk noise. Rotated the bolt a couple of degree and solved the noise.

I did have the bearing cap installed, but with no shims. The shims may have provided the needed clearance but to install them at this stage of assembly imo is to early...….couple of lost hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Time to check the jug. Should be ok, remember it was just rebuilt by a pro. Looked ok but.....

Light scoring was visible in jug, nothing deep but should not be there.

Pulled the exhaust valve, noticed slight burr on stem caused by the keeper. Light file to remove. Spring cap had excessive wear on stem hole.

While pulling the intake valve the keeper caused a heavy burr, the worst I have seen. Hard filing to just remove the spring cap. Pulled valve and wow, had to toss the valve. the keeper slot was to wide! Way to wide, question if this is a Gravely valve. There was about a tenth of inch space when a new keeper was installed in the slot.

Ended up replacing the intake valve, spring, spring cap and keeper. Lapping valves and honing the cylinder. Replaced the exhaust spring cap and keeper.
 

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While you have the engine as shown in the photos, TDC of compression, mark the exhaust cam extension on the top of the shaft, it will make timing the magneto easier. Some exhaust cam shafts actually had a 'punch' mark for TDC.

You will want the nut on the timing coupler 'up' when your timing mark is visible. Make sure the snap of the impulse arm occurs at TDC or a tich after.

Roger,
 

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I'll get back w/you on this, dont wanna jump an important thread or anyones thread for that matter.

Thanks
Aold dude that worked at the Gravely plant told me that the pistons came from Chrysler, so does that sound like a piston from a .318 c.i. ? That has been worked on?
I just dont get why he would say that at the Gravely / Ariens ( or whatever it is) shop right across from the plant in front of a bunch of other old guys.
Might be Gravely/ Polaris.
It was where I went as soon as I got my Gravely. And the prices they charged I didnt go back, exept to return the spark plug they charged me $ 18 for.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
It is alive! Actually it fired on first pull and stayed running on second pull. Strong engine and tranny. Will post pics after I mod out the hood. Dislike the box hood on the e-start models. Currently cutting up a pull start hood to mount to battery box....
RB
 
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