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Discussion Starter #1
I have gotten into gardening in the last two years and since I'm old and fat, I sure don't want to break up the soil by hand! So I started looking for a tiller. Not only am I old and fat, but I'm somewhat cheap as well. I wasn't gonna spend $500 on up on a tiller for what is a hobby garden at this point. I found a 1959 David Bradley Roto Spader on Craigslist and bought it for $50 knowing it needed tuning up.

After it got a new piston and rings, coil, spark plug, point and condenser, as well as an oil change and geared hub oil change, I fired it up. Problem was that when I engaged the tines they turned, slowly, but when I touched the ground with them they stopped altogether. The engine kept running, but the tines stopped.

Tonight I took it down and this is what I found-

The gear box that the tine spokes go into was drained. The stuff that came out was black and thicker than 10w30 but very quickly it turned into more of an ooze. We refilled it with gear hub oil which was 90w if I recall correctly. My questions are would this hub require to be filled with grease or with gear oil? Also, what could be causing my tines to stop turning when they touch the ground? I was told that there should be NO oil/grease of ANY kind in the clutch area, and that makes sense, but could anything else be causing the tines to stop turning?

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Regards,
Eric
 

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Got into the gear today on the tiller and this is what I found. I wiped it down a bit and sprayed it out with engine degreaser and brake cleaner. The gear looks good, no boogered teeth, and the worm drive also looks good. I got all goo out of the gear box and will close it all back up again and put gear hub oil in it later. The plate that goes over the gear hub has a bearing in it that the tine spindle passes through. I am assuming that will need to be packed with grease again before it gets put back on as well. Will be taking the clutch in to get relined (unless it's stupid expensive, in which case i will do it myself), then it's time to put it all back together again and see if she works. I also want to replace the current jerry rigged fuel line with something better.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does it have a belt that turns by way of a centrifugal clutch that powers the gear box?
No, it has a clutch that is manually operated that drives a worm gear which, in turn, turns the main gear as illustrated in the pictures above.

Regards,
Eric
 

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I'll be completely honest, I know nothing of that particular machine, but, if it is not the clutch slipping badly, it sounds like a key or shear bolt is missing, perhaps in that worm gear. the friction on the shaft is enough to cause rotation but not move it at full speed or under load.
 

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reviewing the pictures, the clutch appears to be a cone type clutch, with plenty of friction material, but it is soaked with oil. -try spraying it with brake cleaner, a lot. then let it dry, then spray it again, a lot. then check the seal on each side to make sure it does not leak again. The friction may be shot just from being too soaked to get clean.
 

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Steve- Thanks for your reply. I brought it in to South Bend Clutch today to get re-lined. I brought in both parts so they would have a good idea as to how much material to line it with. I'm thinking that was the issue, all the oil in the clutch hub that should not have been there caused it to glaze over and slip.
 

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Turns out South Bend Clutch cannot re-line a conical clutch. They are awesome guys, this is just something they can't do. The part number cast into the clutch is C-2048 followed by a shield with OS inside of it and then followed by the number 7. Does anybody know a place that re-lines conical clutches, or, know of a person/place that has one for sale?
 

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Got into the gear today on the tiller and this is what I found. I wiped it down a bit and sprayed it out with engine degreaser and brake cleaner. The gear looks good, no boogered teeth, and the worm drive also looks good. I got all goo out of the gear box and will close it all back up again and put gear hub oil in it later. The plate that goes over the gear hub has a bearing in it that the tine spindle passes through. I am assuming that will need to be packed with grease again before it gets put back on as well. Will be taking the clutch in to get relined (unless it's stupid expensive, in which case i will do it myself), then it's time to put it all back together again and see if she works. I also want to replace the current jerry rigged fuel line with something better.
 

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Preacher,
I have a Sears roto spader that has a clutch issue that I need to resolve before installing a motor on it. I saw your post with pictures of the clutch halves that look almost identical to mine. What I need to find out is : does the top half that mounts onto the motor crankshaft have a threaded set screw hole ( usually aligned with the key way slot ) in it ? Mine does not and I think this is the reason that it rubbed thru the crankcase and crankshaft seal on the old engine resulting in the demise of that engine. I have been unsuccessful so far in finding out just how this system is supposed to work with the two halves both moving on their shafts.Any help would be appreciated.
 
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