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1947 Ford 8N

3237 Views 17 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Nouveau Redneck
I just bought 8N. It ran perfectly the first day I used it.

The seller told me that it floods easily. Now I can't get it started.

How do I start a flooded engine? Can I use ether?

I did notice the air filter was god awful dirty. Could this cause the flooding. I am getting a new one today.

Thanks.
DW
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Generically speaking, flooding will usually either be caused by a blockage around the float needle not allowing the carb to turn off fuel flow, or a bad/maladjusted float that will not turn off fuel flow.

Potential causes for blockage include rust or sediment in the fuel tank and bad or lack of fuel filter, or old/disintegrating fuel line. Check the line and fuel filter if there is one, and you can take the carb apart and blow it out with compressed air to remove any potential blockages.

If the float is bad or misaligned, it will also not be able to shut off fuel flow. Brass floats can crack and take on gas, and the old cork/fiber floats can sometimes get saturated. Either situation will keep a float from riding high enough in the fuel bowl to effectively shut off gas flow. Check the float, if it is brass, see if there's liquid sloshing around in it. Check the service manual to confirm the float height is set correctly.

Do not use ether. If the problem is too much fuel, adding more isn't going to help. Shut off the fuel, take out the spark plugs and crank the engine over a few times to vent the cylinders to get out any built up fuel. Check the plugs to make sure they aren't fouled. Once the carb float and needle are operating correctly, you should be able to start it.


I had a similar experience with a zero turn I bought. When I picked it up, it drove great, started and ran no problem. Trailered it home and the problems started, I believe by stirring up a bunch of junk in the fuel tank that ended up in the carb. Solution was flushing the whole fuel tank, replacing the fuel line and filter, and giving the carb a good cleaning and I was back in business.
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It's a brand new carburetor. Gas tank needs replacing though. That's going to be my first project. The seller neglected to tell me the tank leaks. He told me yesterday to only put 2 gallons in at a time.

DW
:MTF_wel2:

Excessive use of the choke will cause carb flooding try to limit the use..
I was told this by the previous owner.

The choke is spring loaded and will go right back in if you let go.

I watched the previous owner start it and he would pull it all the way out and let it go back in before he even cranked it. Is this choke somewhat automatic?

I am a very handy guy and in 6 months will know everything there is not know about this engine. I'm in learning curve mode right now.

DW
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I want to post a couple of pics.
I know one is a resistor.
The other I think is some kind of relay, and I have a problem with it. It buzzes when the key is in the off position. I disconnect the battery when not using so it doesn't buzz.


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I resized your pictures.

I have no clue what that relay is..Where do the wires go??
Auto part Rust


And yes the white resistor is used in the conversion to 12V. One wire should go to the coil to reduce voltage.It will get hot so don't worry about that, new ones also give off some smoke.
Rust Pipe Auto part
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I got it started yesterday. I just have to be really careful with the choke.

At some point I will trace and diagram the whole electrical wiring on this tractor. It has some weird modifications. One is the ignition switch. It's 3 position. So far all I can figure out is that straight up is off. Turn to the left is on but the amp meter does not work or it's not charging. Turn to the right is on and the amp meter shows charging.

I once hand drew every single wire and component in a Hammond B3 organ AO28 pre-amplifier. The reason I did it is that I wanted to shotgun rebuild it and clean the circuit boards.
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I should have checked this right away, but the air filter was so old and clogged, it was the cause of the flooding. With a new air filter, I can use the choke normally without fear of flooding the engine.

DW
Yep, always a good idea to fully service any machine that is new to you so you KNOW what you are dealing with.
I am going to flush the hydraulics with some diesel fuel.. Can I drive it around and really slosh the stuff around in there, or is this just a run engine for a few minutes idling thing?
Nah you can drive it just be sure to have the hydraulic pump OFF since the diesel does not have enough lube properties to protect the pump. There are some that will say not to but I have done many and never had any issues.
All is good.. All fluids changed. Tilled the garden and got down a few more inches. She's in the barn taking a deserved rest.

Just for me I have to figure out the electrical system. There have been some custom modifications made to it. But for now it runs like a top.

Thanks for all the help.

DW
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Always hear people saying that the 8N's first gear is too fast for using a tiller behind it. You must have a step down transmission?
I always wanted to try a tiller on my 8N, but the pto shaft is too long. (and it's only about 15" long!)
Always hear people saying that the 8N's first gear is too fast for using a tiller behind it. You must have a step down transmission?
It depends on the soil condition..
.

Pretty rough on the PTO !!!
.
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What Ken is showing can be done but is not good for the tractor. The ONLY auxiliary transmission that will make the tractor rototiller capable is the rare Howard that goes in after the transmission in the hydraulic compartment. It is the ONLY add on transmission that will slow the tractor ground speed and not the PTO speed.

This information is repeated every time someone asks about using the N tractor with a rototiller.
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It can be done with multiple passes if you don't go too deep on the first one or two passes, depending on how hard the soil is to start with. Both of those videos look like the ground was already soft and loose. A step down transmission shouldn't help, as it also slows down the PTO.
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