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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently purchased a 1942 9N to grade the dirt roads around my house, The tractor runs great, and works well. I love it and it goes well with my obsession for vintage things.
I have a question about it though, on the transmission case just below and slightly ahead of where the oil bath air cleaner hangs is a 9/16th " hole in the case. I can't seem to figure out why or what should have gone here and I imagine it can't be healthy to be left open in the dry dust out here. Can any one identify what it's there for and what I' am missing? Now I am reluctant to run the tractor until I know what it is/what I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you very much, for your answer to my question. I just bought the tractor last Sunday and absolutely love it, but am doing a crash course on leaning about it. I went looking in town for a rubber plug or such to plug it but wasn't sure what was originally there and if I should replace what ever it was. I was unsuccessful finding a plug at the local auto stores but since it won't harm anything if I run the tractor with it open as it is I can take my time and keep looking. BTW I live right above Hemet-Ryan where the Ryan Air attack is located, I noticed you were a Cal Fire Air Tanker pilot. We sleep sounder knowing they are so close!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Someone rigged a plastic battery tray and converted it to 12V.I will keep it 12v but will eventually replace hokey add ons with original/correct reproduction parts as I learn what it should look like. I ordered a library of books/manuals/parts catalogs for it so I can bone up. I paid 1k for it so I think I got a fair deal despite the barn yard tinkering. Runs real strong I was surprised when I drove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's my tractor. I will eventually replace/restore and repaint it all grey and return it to its former glory, but I mainly bought it to work my roads and keep up on my fire defense parameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well technially you have a 2n.
The hole may be for a sherman trans but I'm not sure if the hole was that big. Ken has one in his tractor so maybe he can answer that. The sherman cable system trans cable would rot out and break. Some were replaced others weren't. It may be possible that you have a sherman trans still it there. I would take a long thin screwdriver and push it in there and move it from side to side. If it hit something within an inch or two you may be in luck. In it goes down to 6" or more than probably not. The sherman knob would have been on the right side of the dash. So you should have a hole or plug in the dash.
Another thing thing the hole could have been used for was to spray something on a stuck clutch to free it up. In this case I would keep the clutch pedal block down when not in use.
You can put a dab of silicone or plug in it to keep the dirt and water out.
Good luck with your new tractor.


Kirk
kirk, thank you, great advise I check it out and post what I find. BTW how can you tell it is a 2n over a 9n Were all 1942s 2n ? Thanks again I really appreciate the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If your worried about the hole, go to a Home Depot or Lowes. Look in the specialty hardware section where they have all the little drawers of stuff. Look for corks. Like regular bottle stopper corks. They should also have them in black rubber, which is what I would use.
Great I'll do that! Thanks much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well technially you have a 2n.
The hole may be for a sherman trans but I'm not sure if the hole was that big. Ken has one in his tractor so maybe he can answer that. The sherman cable system trans cable would rot out and break. Some were replaced others weren't. It may be possible that you have a sherman trans still it there. I would take a long thin screwdriver and push it in there and move it from side to side. If it hit something within an inch or two you may be in luck. In it goes down to 6" or more than probably not. The sherman knob would have been on the right side of the dash. So you should have a hole or plug in the dash.
Another thing thing the hole could have been used for was to spray something on a stuck clutch to free it up. In this case I would keep the clutch pedal block down when not in use.
You can put a dab of silicone or plug in it to keep the dirt and water out.
Good luck with your new tractor.

Kirk
Kirk,
Now I think I may need to study up on the Sherman transmission too. I did exactly as you instructed and about 2" in my screw driver hits something and there is a hole in the dash on the right side just below the choke just as you said there should be! I will search the net to learn what the Sherman tranny was and what I may need to get it operating again. This is awesome, I went from thinking I had a problem, to now thinking I have a desirable option I didn't know was there.
Thanks again,
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
You guys are all amazing and I can't say thanks enough for your advise, information and enthusiasm! I'm hooked now, I went looking for a cheap tractor to grade my roads and came back with a new obssession!

In surfing the net and from the information you gentlemen have provided, it looks like the cables are hard to come by. I looked at the conversion kits which seem fair, however I am going to speak with some friends of mine who, if given enough time and money could build a space shuttle if they wanted. They rebuild/restore WW2 vehicles so fabricating parts is something they are very familiar with.

I'm pretty sure they could make a replacement cable kit for me and install it, These guys rebuild Maybach tank motors etc. I am now wondering if there might be a market for a replacement cable kit (maybe with stainless cable?) Maybe I'll have them build a few...hmmmmm
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
tophat, I have my 9n apart and i have a sherman trans in mine, here is a picture for you. Just for more visuals.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z413/onehandman/1316038068.jpg

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z413/onehandman/1314553084.jpg

showing you side lever, instead of cable driven

hope this helps a little:thThumbsU:thThumbsU
Thanks it does, however I have another question...and forgive me if the Q is a dumb one..Are there two transmissions in tandem and currently mine is only operating with one or is my tractor using the sherman just not the hi/low features?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Your tractor is a Mid '44 and up to a '47. oval tube style radius rods didn't come out until the middle of 1944. Earliest tube style I've seen was built april 25, 1944.
It doesn't matter if your serial # sez 9N.
193(9)/41= 9n
194(2)/47=2n
194(8)/52=8n
Production of the next years model started about 3 months of the year before. It the case of the switch from 2n to 8n it was about 5 months. Because they were built in the previous year some poeple think they have an early model.

Kirk
The guy who sold it to me listed it as a 1942, and because of my 9N ignorance I took him for his word, but I see what you mean about the radius rods, which now begs the question what exactly do I have. I don't think the guy intentionally mislead me, he struck me as an honest fellow, I guess he only repeated what he had been told. The serial number on the engine block reads ?N 040 3180 the first number has been partially scraped off. It could be a 9. The tractor is 3 speed, has front mounted distributor. I searched for casting numbers but only came up with another confusing number on the bottom of the oil pan 9N6675. Maybe I have a Frankin'-tractor carried out of the factory in someones lunch box 1 piece at a time. Works great though, I graded the road leading to the house and cleared an acre of brush where I want to grow some grapes today..love the thing! :rauch10:
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
wouldnt worry sorry lol
Yeah, no worries, I just enjoy learning about things as much as I do using/collecting them. It does seem to be narrowed down to 1944-1947, but the serial number is confusing to me as after the N it starts with a 0 and appears to be a number that doesn't seem to jive with 44-47. I'm learning on-the-fly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
It could be a 9. OR could it be a B??? If it is a B then BNO 40 3180 would be a Moto Tug engine. it could have been a replacement for your old engine. The 40 would have made it a daul rear wheel. They also made single rear wheel ones.
Check on your engine near the starter. There should be a date code tag. Also you can check on your hdraulic pump under the tractor and on the rear axle trumpets for date codes.

Kirk
Yes it looks more like a B than anything else, ! I'll check the the other areas. This is getting quite interesting, because the tractor ran so strong and smooth when I "test drove" it, I asked the guy if the motor had been rebuilt, and he said he didn't know much about it as he had got it from a neighbor who had moved back to MN, who didn't want to move it with him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Ok,this is awesome. After scratching some of the red paint off no doubt, the serial number on the block is BNO 40 3180. It is also painted a blueish grey underneath.

The casting number on the hydraulic pump is 9N 605 A2. (Jan 1942?) I know this mix-mash of parts might not be ideal from a collectors stand point, but to me it is awesome to think that the motor now grading my roads may have been pulling Hellcats, or B-17's at one time. To me, it makes the tractor even cooler. The radiator may not be original as it fits, and even has the indentation on the bottom for the hand crank but the filler and cap did not line up so someone cut the hood opening into a circle to acommodate, It should have been a tear drop opening I believe.)

I did not see a date tag near the starter, and on the axle trumphets where the fenders attach there is A48 and A51 (which I guess means Jan 1948, 1951?) So this tractor does appear to have been assembled by Johnny Cash.

I was going to repaint it all dark grey as the 2Ns came, but now I think, since there is no exact way to date this, no need to be a purist. I may paint the main body Flathead Ford engine block green w/ tan fenders and hood. I saw a 1939 9N painted this way and thought it looked good. Hope that doesn't make the rest of you cringe too much.
 
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