My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,567 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I did some priming and fabricating this weekend. I have the loader modified about 80% with some brackets and welding cleanup left. I am hoping to have a complete tractor minus the engine painted soon. I ended up changing the rear loader supports by shortening them and welding on a bracket to my frame that they connect to. I am still planning to add a roll bar with sunshade and lights as well as the power steering (when I can afford it). The loader is from my Monkey Wards I sold and fits perfect. I couldn't resist putting the fenders and hood on to get my creative juices recharged. Whenever I am doing an extensive project, I need to do this kind of stuff to recharge me. anyways, enjoy the pictures.










 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
Lookin good !! I can completely relate... I have to do stuff like that to keep myself motivated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
A+++ work there.:thThumbsU
 

·
Bolens 1886-01
Joined
·
3,192 Posts
Wow that is quite impressive nice work!
 

·
Lindeman crawler fan
Joined
·
2,810 Posts
That is an excellent looking fabrication job you have done.
 

·
Deceased October 2017
Joined
·
21,767 Posts
Looking good Justin .. I cant wait to see the finished project .. Everyother tractor that you have done so far has been VERY nicely done :fing32::fing32:
 

·
.
Joined
·
5,525 Posts
Very nice Justin, you do great work
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
Awesome work and a great project, Justin.
Do you have any interference problems with the filter of hydro linkage due to the lifting of the frame caused by the angle iron reinforcements?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,567 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Awesome work and a great project, Justin.
Do you have any interference problems with the filter of hydro linkage due to the lifting of the frame caused by the angle iron reinforcements?
I was able to screw it on flush with the frame, no denting in the filter....It is as close as can be. Picture #7 shows it pretty good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,567 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I made quite a bit of progress today. I got the belly support welded in with box tubing and made one side of the front support. The way this loader is being modified, I will be able to take one whole side off at a time then the belly support. I also started messing with the power steering cylinder. Does anyone have a large frame WITH power steering AND 10 inch front tires? I don't see how that combo can work with the limited space when turning.....Anyways, more pictures.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
I don't have the 10" large tires and power asist steering combination like you are looking for but, my HT20 has 18x8.50-8 tires and power asist steering. Here are a few pictures you can use as reference. There is about 1/2" clearance from the hydraulic elbow on the side of the power assist unit and the tire at max steering angle. I doubt the 20x8-10 tires will clear. The tires are new Multi Trac CS and look to be about 17.5" tall.

I've got some ideas and parts for a power steering project that might be a solution for you, but haven't had time to pull them together. I'll see what I can do tomorrow night and provide some more pictures.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
Looking at that set-up, it looks like you could reverse the cylinder, mount it backwards, and get the clearance you need. Is that possible?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,567 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So looking at your setup, when the front pivots, does it rub? Looks like it does to me. My setup would reverse the cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
When the front axle pivots, the asist cylinder goes up with the axle. Clearance is reduced but it does not rub (but comes very close).

You cannot reverse (swap front to rear) the assist cylinder/valve assembly. The steering rod from the sector gear must attach to the valve on the assist cylinder and the valve must move or the steering assist won't work.

Bolens used what I prefer to call "power assist steering". There is still a mechanical linkage between the steering wheel and the tires (if the valve bottoms out you can still mechanically steer the front tires). The valve provides the power assist by opening when the steering rod trys to push the assist cylinder. Oil is sent to the cylinder making the cylinder "keep up" with the steering rod. Some early cars (ford falcon/mustang) and farm tractors also used this type of steering.

The other type of power steering used on modern equipment is what I call "hydrostatic steering". This is where there is a steering control valve attached to the steering wheel and a hydraulic cylinder attached to the wheels. There is no mechanical linkage between the steering wheel and the tires, only hydraulic fluid.

I've got the steering control valve and steering cylinder from a John Deere 420 garden tractor I'm grafting into a project I've started. I'll try to get some pictures tonight for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,567 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That is the route I will be going. Just have to get the necessary parts. I was using a cylinder I had laying around but think I'll go with a Deere or Cub setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Justin
Here is the plan I have for adding hydrostatic power steering to my next project. I'm a little reluctant to share because I'm still in the planning stages and haven't actually completed this to verify it will all work, but it should.
:hide:
I prefer to fabricate with used parts, it saves money and if you get something wrong and have to buy twice it wasn't such a big investment. If you think about it, who produced the most garden tractors with power steering? John Deere...so they are the biggest source of used parts. The early 400 series JDs seem to be the most similar in size to Bolens large frame.
I have aquired the steering control valve and cylinder from a John Deere 420 (same as 430, 400 was different). Make sure you get a 5 port steering control valve. As luck would have it, the steering cylinder has the same 4.5" stroke as the factory Bolens power assist assembly.

As you can see the steering cylinder has an extra long rod which helps keep it away from the tire at max steering angle. It also comes with a ball joint on the base end and a 5/8" spherical rod end for the steering arm......perfect

The steering control valve will fit inside the large frame steering column. Just need to fabricate a mounting plate and weld it in. The only issue I've found with the steering control valve is that its tall. The hydraulic ports are on the bottom of the valve therefore 90 degree fittings are needed to avoid the hydro drive shaft. Even with the steering control valve down as far as I can get it I think the steering wheel will be a little higher than before.

Oh...another problem, you have to throw away to steering wheel cap with the stupid deer on it:duh:

So there you have it, thats my plan.:goodl:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
One more close up picture of the steering control valve.
 

Attachments

·
Eleven Year Site Sponsor
Joined
·
2,821 Posts
If you are concerned about clearance at full lock on the steering, watch on eBay for the front hub spacers for the Large Frames. These push the front wheels out a bit, and may just give you the clearance you need. That seems to be why Bolens had them in the first place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
If you are concerned about clearance at full lock on the steering, watch on eBay for the front hub spacers for the Large Frames. These push the front wheels out a bit, and may just give you the clearance you need. That seems to be why Bolens had them in the first place.
Theres someone using his head!!!:fing32:
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top