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Unless your 1" square tubing is very thin wall thickness, I would not think that tightening the bolts would deform the tube. Your other option might be to use bushing stock at the right length, and forgo the tubing entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Another option is to do like the repower kits do, and use brackets made of welded angle. I think two 1.25 x 1.25 angles welded together would suffice for each side. I'll look around to see whether I can easily find it in .25 thickness.
 

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I like the idea of the angle iron brackets better. It will not hide any possible issues like the tubing compressing. A suggestion with it might be to weld the nut or the bolt onto the angle iron that would be hidden behind the angle iron. Then you would not have to worry about being able to reach into a tight space with a wrench. If you welded the bolts on then they would extend up through the engine mounting and make the alignment easier when installing the engine. The engine would just align as you lowered it onto the bolts.

I like the thoughts you have given this for future maintenance. I am sure everyone here has had to deal with something on a car, truck, tractor or whatever that the design was not thought out enough to facilitate repair work.

Keep us posted and pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I am liking it more myself as I look at the layout and the fact that I can torque bolts to the desired specification with no worry.

BTW, elsimon, did you get your ignition control module yet?
 

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I would use a piece if 1" square tube with a 1/4" wall and you can twist on them nuts until the cows come home and you will not hurt it, or use solid bar stock. I don't like that angle iron idea at all. If you use solid bar stock you can always surface grind it to the thickness that you need.
 

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Steevo,

Yes I got it. BIG THANK YOU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I would use something like this.
Square aluminum stock bars.
I like the solid bar idea.

I can probably find 1.5" x 1.5" aluminum bar stock, or even short remnants that would be long enough.
Then I'd just need to get them machined down to the right thickness.

Does anyone think that running them crosswise rather than front-to-back might be sturdier and do more to eliminate flex in the mounting plate?

I am thinking that having that big old K482 bolted flat to the plate was using the engine block as a stiffener.
 

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Running the lenghtwise would allow for better blowing/washing leaves and grass clipping out easyer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Ok, I really like the solid aluminum bar idea, so I am down to two possible methods.
Since I want to avoid machining costs associated with milling down a thicker bar to 1.375", I plan to use a 1" and a 3/8" bar, stacked to get my height.

I'll use material that is 2" wide for a good footprint and maximum contact with both engine and mount plate.

Given that all of the load the engine exerts on the frame is torsional from rotational resistance of Hydro or PTO, I am thinking that the least mounting plate flex and vibration will be achieved by running the solid bars side to side.

As for Deerlopes' piont about debris under there, with this narrower engine, and the frame notches where the original K482 sat, I can practically reach through under there from the sides, so I don't see a problem with cleaning.

See the two diagrams below for clarification.
 

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Steevo,

Just thought of another thing you may need to consider. If the newer engine is narrower the weight and torsion points will not be located where they were originally. Could this cause the mounting plate to flex and bend? Perhaps you may want to put the 3/8" bar on the bottom make them out of carbon steel and run it all the way to the edge of the mounting bracket. You could even stitch weld them on. This would add strength at the outer mounting points along the frame. This is only if you think you will need it. It could also be I am not visualizing it correctly.

El Simon
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Steevo,

Just thought of another thing you may need to consider. If the newer engine is narrower the weight and torsion points will not be located where they were originally. Could this cause the mounting plate to flex and bend? Perhaps you may want to put the 3/8" bar on the bottom make them out of carbon steel and run it all the way to the edge of the mounting bracket. You could even stitch weld them on. This would add strength at the outer mounting points along the frame. This is only if you think you will need it. It could also be I am not visualizing it correctly.

El Simon
That is a good thought, and you are on the same page with me as far as visualizing the load and stress points.

The new engine does have a narrower footprint, and a smaller bolt pattern, leaving more flat, unbraced plate between it and the frame rails.
Add to that the additional power and torque, and you could reasonably expect more plate flex.
I am thinking that I may add a section of angle under each motor mounting pad, below the stock plate with the mount bolts running down through them, and extending them out to the edges to just inside the frame rails. Bolting them through the plate near the ends, or even stitch welding them every few inches would eliminate any flex and twist tendencies.
 

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You better see how much torque those things can handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I spent a little time in the garage today as a Christmas present to myself.
I am waiting for some aluminum bar to come in for making my motor mounts, so for today I took on another area needing attention. I had a set of 4-bolt trailer hubs to use on the 1886 project, and decided to mount them up.
I bought a set of high speed trailer hubs from R&P Carriages (eBay name= randpcarriages), that comes with everything you need to install them. New bearings and seals in both 1” and 1.25” sizes, hubs, lug nuts. The only thing missing is new dust caps. Total price for set of two with shipping was $50.34



These are the wheels/tires I am putting on the new hubs:



I test-fitted the hubs in the wheels so that I wouldn’t have a last minute unhappy surprise if they didn’t clear the rim, or were too large for the hub bore:





All fit well, so I took the old wheels off the 1886:



I replaced the spindle bushings with new ones while I had it apart, and cleaned and lubricated the flat plate bearings that sit between the spindles and the lower bushings.



When I unbolted the steering arm from the top of the left spindle, it fell off in two pieces. Fortunately I had a spare to swap so I was able to re-assemble everything.
With new bushings and bearings in the spindles, the steering is tighter, but I’ll still need to replace the center axle pivot bushings and all four ball joints rod ends. I didn’t have any on hand, so I’ll have to do that later.
Looks pretty cool with the new wheels and tires on it.



Need some new dust caps now:



Tomorrow I may pull the engine mount plate out of the frame and reverse it to get the oil drain hole on the left. I also need to make some measurements for my engine mounts, so I will be ready to work on them when my metal arrives.

Merry Christmas. I hope you enjoyed yours as much as I did!
 

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Steevo--Any day spent in the garage doing a little fab work is good time to me..IMHO!
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I have to agree Glenn.

There's no time like garage time.

I keep clicking my heels together and saying that, but when I open my eyes, I am usually still at work, or somewhere else uninspiring.

Today, we had no commitments (all handled pre-xmas) and the daughter went to MN with the son-in-law for a VERY white Christmas with his family, so it was a very casual and relaxing day. The wife laid about reading and I played with tractors.
Hmmm, that sounds like my idea of a dream retirement.
 

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Looking good! Great progress!
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Thanks Doug.
Getting the mechanical needs squared away before I worry about cosmetic stuff. Once I have the new engine in and working, and all is functional, then maybe I'll take it apart to repaint.
 

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Lookin very good. Where did you get the spindle bushings? I also need to get 4 new tie rod ends, don't know where to get them either. This tractor rebuilting is all new to me but I like doing it. You guys on this site sure have given me a lot of help. The winters are long here so this gives me something to do.
 
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