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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I started in on my 1886-01 project today, cleaning it up and assessing what repairs it may need.
It actually washed up pretty well.
Some before shots:




And after pressure washing:




Luckily, the JD green is only skin deep, and it has started to wash off already.

The tractor had this weird bracket with pulleys below the PTO added by a previous owner, probably to run a belt drive deck or blower:




I fixed that:



I discovered that the back of the frame has been extended to accommodate the 18086 3-pt mounts. This makes sense, as the 1886 frame ended right behind the axle mount reinforcements, and would not have room for the hitch mounts. I should have thought of that when I saw this hitch on an 1886. I guess the HT-20 must have extended frame behind the axle to bolt this later-style 3-pt hitch to?
Apparently, somewhere there is a Bolens large frame that is a bit shorter than it started out, because there’s 6” of it welded on here:





This is the first Bolens I have bought (#4 for me) that came with a complete and functioning rear brake still on it:



These are the wheels and tires that will go on the 1886. I already have the new hubs, bearings and seals to switch to 4-bolt trailer hubs in front:



And this is the motor I plan to put into the tractor:



Stay tuned for more . . . .
 

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I guess the HT-20 must have extended frame behind the axle to bolt this later-style 3-pt hitch to?


Yes the 1886s-05 onword had the extended frame for the 3 point.

It looking good so far. Are you going to cut off that add on from the back of the frame?
 

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Nice project you have started :thThumbsU . Looking forward to your progress reports.

With which large frame model did Bolens start adding the hydrostat cooling fan guard?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wilberj,
No, I like that heavy duty 3-pt hitch setup and think I'll keep it. The welds are strong and the frame extensions solid, so I am not worried about it. I may grind down and fill in and re-grind the welds for cosmetic reasons. Whoever did it used the whole hitch assembly and lift rod setup from the 18086 when the did it, so it is all done right. I am wondering if this setup has no down pressure though, since the lift arm from the rockshaft to 3-pt pivot is slotted and allows the arms to ride up with no resistance. I see no way that it could be made to exert any downward force other than the weight of the implement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice project you have started :thThumbsU . Looking forward to your progress reports.

With which large frame model did Bolens start adding the hydrostat cooling fan guard?
Ah, you noticed my fan guard with no fan, eh?
Luckily, I have a fan on the shelf that will fit this.
Looking at the parts manuals, I think they all had fans, but it looks like the 1477 was the first to add the guards.
 

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Ah, you noticed my fan guard with no fan, eh?
Luckily, I have a fan on the shelf that will fit this.
Looking at the parts manuals, I think they all had fans, but it looks like the 1477 was the first to add the guards.
I was just wondering . . . Not a bad idea to have a guard there (unlike my 1250).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a 1455 and a 1476 (no guard), and neither had fans on them when I got them. I guess the guard didn't save the fan on the 1886 any better though, since it is missing. Of course, maybe a P.O. just left it off during a previous rebuild.
 

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Here is what the frame should look like.
 

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The Po did that before I got it loud as ****. Just got a new exhaust manifold for it so I just cut them off to day.
 

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Aa part of the rebuild, you could always try to find the frame rails that have the extra length from the factory to accept the pivot blocks for the 3-pt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Aa part of the rebuild, you could always try to find the frame rails that have the extra length from the factory to accept the pivot blocks for the 3-pt.
Thanks for the idea, LPBOLENS.

I could, but I am not a purist, and if I were, I would have to cut off the extensions that are already on my frame, and sell the non-original 3-pt to someone else (don't even think about it, wilberj). I am perfectly comfortable with a post-production extended frame and non-stock motor. I am building a working machine, and what it can do with it is more important to me than how closely it matches a sales brochure or parts manual.

I like modifications that make things better.
 

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Thanks for the idea, LPBOLENS.

I could, but I am not a purist, and if I were, I would have to cut off the extensions that are already on my frame, and sell the non-original 3-pt to someone else (don't even think about it, wilberj). I am perfectly comfortable with a post-production extended frame and non-stock motor. I am building a working machine, and what it can do with it is more important to me than how closely it matches a sales brochure or parts manual.

I like modifications that make things better.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: hhmmm. :ROF

I dont need another one I got two already. :drunkie:
 

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I have a 1455 and a 1476 (no guard), and neither had fans on them when I got them. I guess the guard didn't save the fan on the 1886 any better though, since it is missing. Of course, maybe a P.O. just left it off during a previous rebuild.
I'm guessing the guards were implemented to save a few mechanic's fingers.
 

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That weird backet for the mower was definately off a Bolens. My 1468 has the same type less the two pieces of bent flat bar. The miss matched idler sheaves are supposed to be the same size. I will be most interested in how the new motor bolts up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That weird backet for the mower was definately off a Bolens. My 1468 has the same type less the two pieces of bent flat bar. The miss matched idler sheaves are supposed to be the same size. I will be most interested in how the new motor bolts up.
Thanks for that. I'll save the idler bracket and toss teh rusty flatbar in the scrap pile.

As for the motor, I should have time to work out the mounting and front stub shaft length during the upcoming 3-day weekends. At first glance, it looks to me like the crankshaft center is about 1.25" lower on the new motor, which means raising the engine off the mount plate with spacers/plates to align it the same as the stock height for the rear driveshaft and belt lengths. I need to get it in place and see how long of a stub shaft I need for the front. Kohler has about 4 different lengths that fit that motor and are 1.125" dia. for the front pulley.
 

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I see what appears to be a common problem when looking at the rear of your axle. It appears under the right rear the tiller shaft has worn the axle housing. I would inspect this closely to assess just how deep it has worn as I recently acquired one with this and am in need of a different rear housing. Anyone have a good condition one they want to sell without a worn groove? Oh, and a good condition rotor for an Eaton 12.....
 

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I see what appears to be a common problem when looking at the rear of your axle. It appears under the right rear the tiller shaft has worn the axle housing. I would inspect this closely to assess just how deep it has worn as I recently acquired one with this and am in need of a different rear housing. Anyone have a good condition one they want to sell without a worn groove? Oh, and a good condition rotor for an Eaton 12.....
I don't see it.I know what your talking about though.Never had that problem on ANY of my tractors.I have an HT18 rear but would be COSTLY $$$ shipping cross country.
 

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OH,I see it!!!I think I need new glasses. :ROF
 
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