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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I received one of my back-ordered parts orders today.
I got my Kohler front drive (stub) shaft ($112):


and my Kohler stock close-fit exhaust manifold ($56):


The stub shaft in place (not bolted yet - need metric bolts):


And with pulley slipped in place:


And the exhaust manifold in place:



I need to get some 8x1.25 metric bolts for the stub shaft, and figure out my plan for mating the exhaust manifold to the stock muffler. I am not sure whether to make an adapter with a plate on the end that a stock 1886 muffler will bolt to, or to modify the stock muffler with a slip-on tube fitting.
I think the latter would be less prone to exhaust leaks.
 

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Are you going to run the muffler like stock, or stick it in the air like a stack?

These guys have a little bit of everything. They bend small diameter tubing if you need something mandrel bent.

http://woolfaircraft.com

I bought my transition and elbow from them.

Lookin very good.. can't wait for more pictures.
 

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Does that motor take up less room? it looks like you could almost dump the exhaust down under the tractor and fabricate side panels to enclose the hood with the clearances on that motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It is narrow enough to do that, but I'd worry about air flow. I am considering making front air panels like the stock HT's have, that wrap the lower front section to force intake air for the flywheel fan to come in from under the battery box/fuel tank mount. I'll also need to make a panel for behind the motor to deflect the hot air away from the driver/dash. It would be nice to make that work like an old car vent door, so it deflects outward during warm weather, but could be directed rearward if desired in cold weather.
 

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Bolens 1886-01
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Nice job you are really putting some time and effort into that thing.
 

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It is narrow enough to do that, but I'd worry about air flow. I am considering making front air panels like the stock HT's have, that wrap the lower front section to force intake air for the flywheel fan to come in from under the battery box/fuel tank mount. I'll also need to make a panel for behind the motor to deflect the hot air away from the driver/dash. It would be nice to make that work like an old car vent door, so it deflects outward during warm weather, but could be directed rearward if desired in cold weather.
My old S-10 had the vent doors in the kick panels.. those were the best little gadget.. not sure why they can't make simple trucks like that anymore. I wonder if you could place a small 12v blower and vent in the dash.. that way you could blow engine heat toward yourself in the winter months? Should get plenty of heat from the exhaust manifold and engine. Be perfect if you ever put a cab on it. I used to have little squirell cage units that we used in custom Amp racks. They pushed/pulled alot of air for their size. Wish I still had them.. they would make perfect little heat blowers.

I thought about closing my side panels and placing an electric fan in the front of the hood (I have a left over one from my old street/strip car). I'm just not sure what it would look like closed off. Probably wouldn't look as nice as i'm thinking in my head. However.. I wonder if I would have any benefit to adding the fan anyways? Suppose it would be to much electrical draw? It's a 12volt unit from an LT1 powered transam (they used two fans) I pulled the factory unit when I converted the radiator/fan to an aftermarket unit. I also have a transmission cooler that I thought about adding while I am fixing the hydraulic lines this summer. Wonder where it would need mounted?
 

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Is the extend shaft the same lenght as was on the old engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is the extend shaft the same lenght as was on the old engine?
No, but it ends at the same place relative to the front of the tractor. It was ordered to be the right length to get the face of the pulley where I wanted it, after I positioned the engine to be where I wanted it. There were several (6) different lengths available. And the one on the original Kohler K482 has a different mounting flange and bolt pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My old S-10 had the vent doors in the kick panels.. those were the best little gadget.. not sure why they can't make simple trucks like that anymore.
I had a '59 Ford pickup that had good old steel vent doors that opened in the inside kick panels. Air came down from the vented panel below the winsdhield.
One day in summer, I was on my way to the lake, wearing swimming trunks and a t-shirt, and flipped open that vent door. About 1,000 black beetles came blowing up at me, up the legs of my trunks, in my face, all over the cab there were beetles flying and crawling on everything. Apparently they nested down in there, and got launched out when I opened the vent.
I was out of that truck, and dancing on the side of the road as I cleared them from my trunks.:biglaugh:
 

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The engine certainly puts out enough heat to warm a cab on a cold winter's day. Just make sure you don't have any exhaust leaks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I finished installing the stub shaft and pulley today. Had to go get a couple of set screws, because I can't figure out where I put the ones I took out of the pulley. Oh well, I got stainless ones, and they look cool. I cut the center out of the flywheel cover screen and buttoned everything up. Just need belts now, and those are on order.



I may have to change my plans on the muffler. I have the stock 1886 muffler, but on close examination, it has a couple of problems. The header pipe has been cracked by an impact that bent it on the elbow, down inside where the stock tin heat shroud covers it all up. In addition to the damage, the muffler is kind of rusty along the center section, and the heat shield is also. I'll either have to grind off welds and disassemble the heat shield to get to the elbow and repair (weld up) the crack, or I may look into an after-market muffler solution.
Now I am seriously considering duals . . . .
 

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Bolens 1886-01
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Nice job on the stub shaft. Too bad about the exhaust but I think dualies would look really neat and probably sound really good too.
 
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