Re: 185 Snowblower: No shear bolts? W T F?
Eric, I'm sorry it packed in on you like that! I'm afraid, tho, you might actually be the victim of either the PO replacing the shear bolt with a non-shear bolt, or the rotor being rusted onto the driveshaft or shear plate.... Here's the rotor from the 38" blower...
1 19H1900 CAP SCREW 6 5/16" X 3/4"
12H303 LOCK WASHER 6 5/16"
2 JD8554 ECCENTRIC LOCKING COLLAR 2 (INCLUDES SET SCREW)
3 22H897 SET SCREW 2 1/4" X 1/4"
4 JD8665 BALL BEARING 2
5 M80293 PRESSED FLANGED HOUSING 4
6 19H1914 CAP SCREW 1 1/4" X 1", SHEAR BOLT
M40333 LOCK NUT 1 1/4"
7 AM33337 ARM 1
8 M45460 SHAFT KEY 1 .250" SQ. X .88"
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
9 M45628 DRIVE SHAFT 1 (0.978 M) 38-1/2"
10 E18961 BUSHING 2
11 ........ SHAFT KEY 1 (CUT FROM H64374)
12 22H837 SET SCREW 1 3/8" X 5/8"
13 AM38206 CHAIN SPROCKET 1
14 AM33364 ROTOR 1
If/when you get the new pulley, you need to check out your bolt #6 and make sure that NEITHER of these is the case! In fact, I should go out this weekend and make sure that my rotor isn't rusted to my drive shaft or shear plate... There was a thread about that a couple of months ago, where I believe someone had a traumatic blower failure as a result of things being rusted together to the point where their sprocket went before their shear pin did.
Again, :sorry1: for your trouble!
Edit - you know, LOOKING at this diagram, I'm wondering how in fact that shear pin that's marked there actually would WORK, since shouldn't it be at the OTHER end of the rotor (the drive end, versus the non-drive end)?