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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Why on earth would JD make a blower without shear bolts? So now I sit here with a broken sheave as a result and of course, it's NLA on JD Parts. Seriously JD? W T F?

Any suggestions? Words don't begin to describe how ****** I am right now at such a HORRIBLE design.

I found a replacement pulley at a few places online that must still have stock, however the pulley is $50. Again, W T F JD?

:banghead3
 

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· The Admin from... Nowhere!
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Re: 185 Snowblower: No shear bolts? W T F?

Eric, I'm sorry it packed in on you like that! I'm afraid, tho, you might actually be the victim of either the PO replacing the shear bolt with a non-shear bolt, or the rotor being rusted onto the driveshaft or shear plate.... Here's the rotor from the 38" blower...



1 19H1900 CAP SCREW 6 5/16" X 3/4"
12H303 LOCK WASHER 6 5/16"
2 JD8554 ECCENTRIC LOCKING COLLAR 2 (INCLUDES SET SCREW)
3 22H897 SET SCREW 2 1/4" X 1/4"
4 JD8665 BALL BEARING 2
5 M80293 PRESSED FLANGED HOUSING 4
6 19H1914 CAP SCREW 1 1/4" X 1", SHEAR BOLT
M40333 LOCK NUT 1 1/4"
7 AM33337 ARM 1
8 M45460 SHAFT KEY 1 .250" SQ. X .88"
Cart KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
9 M45628 DRIVE SHAFT 1 (0.978 M) 38-1/2"
10 E18961 BUSHING 2
11 ........ SHAFT KEY 1 (CUT FROM H64374)
12 22H837 SET SCREW 1 3/8" X 5/8"
13 AM38206 CHAIN SPROCKET 1
14 AM33364 ROTOR 1

If/when you get the new pulley, you need to check out your bolt #6 and make sure that NEITHER of these is the case! In fact, I should go out this weekend and make sure that my rotor isn't rusted to my drive shaft or shear plate... There was a thread about that a couple of months ago, where I believe someone had a traumatic blower failure as a result of things being rusted together to the point where their sprocket went before their shear pin did.

Again, :sorry1: for your trouble!

Edit - you know, LOOKING at this diagram, I'm wondering how in fact that shear pin that's marked there actually would WORK, since shouldn't it be at the OTHER end of the rotor (the drive end, versus the non-drive end)?
 

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Re: 185 Snowblower: No shear bolts? W T F?

All I can say is... that sucks! and :sorry1:
 

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Not familiar with a 185 snowblower but most of the 160 -185's used a model #38 blower.
Here is a picture of the shear bolt ( pin) of #38.
:sorry1: for your bad luck because it can also be all the things LTG said. RUST!!
Keep us posted :praying:
 

· The Admin from... Nowhere!
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There are 2 blowers that fit the 185. The M0246X and M02460. The X is the one I have. It doesn't have a shear bolt unfortunately as can be seen here.
DOH! Sorry Eric! I went back and looked at the post where you were working so hard to get it onto your 185, and coulda sworn it was the M02460! I'll have to go back and reread again... and again!

I hope you're able to get it up and going again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: 185 Snowblower: No shear bolts? W T F?

Edit - you know, LOOKING at this diagram, I'm wondering how in fact that shear pin that's marked there actually would WORK, since shouldn't it be at the OTHER end of the rotor (the drive end, versus the non-drive end)?
Part #9 runs inside the length of the auger. There is no attachment to the auger on the drive end. The shear pins are normally on the non-drive end.
 

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Well...it should have sheared at #8 in the diagram in post #7. Someone could have put a steel key in place of a aluminum one, etc. However, I can't say what is supposed to be there. I do suspect JD provided for shear protection on that thing somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
A minor update:

After some further investigating, it turns out I misread the serial number somehow when I first looked it. The serial number is M02462X, which is the blower for the LX series and the later 185s (post 1990), however it is still a slight cob up. The auger setup has no shear pin. The protection is from smoking a belt I suppose. I spoke to a parts guy and he said that the shaft key wouldn't have been aluminum and it turns out the sheave that broke IS still available from Deere and has been changed 3 times, he said that it is most likely stronger than mine that broke. It should allow the belt to slip rather than break parts. I haven't decided whether I want to spend $45 on the pulley to find out if JD's engineering improved. I'm leaning in that direction, just so that I have a blower and a plow. Alternatively, I suppose I could try to part out the blower or replace the pulley and sell it. I'm half tempted to measure the auger on my 37A and see if the 2 augers would interchange, the 37A has a shear bolt.

This is the correct diagram for my blower. Still a little disappointed in Deere over this, but what can I do...
 

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sorry to hear of your difficulties, but number 8 SHOULD shear if any obstruction, may have not been alum but soft metal.

A belt slipping is not the same as a shear key/pin and not the proper way to prevent breakage-

the proper part for 8 is the solution, it is why it is there.

the newer styles with a shear-bolt were designed so it is easier to replace seeing as so many folks seems to hit stuff... deere took that into account for the newer blowers, but did not leave your system unprotected.

must be luck but I have been snowblowing for 35+ years and have never sheared a pin, bolt or key in any snowblower, (been a few over the years) cannot remember hitting anything either, did get a newspaper caught up in the Toro once but it did not stop the auger... (I am rarely lucky :))

good luck, with new parts and the "proper" shear-key!

but yes, it sure sucks to wrench in the cold...


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Hi Eric,

Not sure how this turned out for you, but in case you were still considering options, I thought I'd call your attention to this thread:

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=227548

Oklahoma may be too far away, or it may not even be the correct model. But it does have a whole rack of shear bolts! :D
 
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