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Discussion Starter #1
ok here goes it!! I bought 2 jd 185s and both have carb issues but run. I wanted to rebuild the carbs in them, however I have the question of questions. how do you remove the main jet holder? Ive destroyed one of my back up carbs trying to do this? currently have one soaking in some triflow. any ideas? thanks in advance guys.
 

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ok here goes it!! I bought 2 jd 185s and both have carb issues but run. I wanted to rebuild the carbs in them, however I have the question of questions. how do you remove the main jet holder? Ive destroyed one of my back up carbs trying to do this? currently have one soaking in some triflow. any ideas? thanks in advance guys.
The main jet is 3 pieces nestled inside one another. They are brass and sit inside a cast metal carb for decades slowly corroding together until you need to remove them. Sometimes they break and when that happens it's time use an easy out. Soak the crap out of them and you might be able to save the 2 tubes that make up the main jet assembly.

Finding parts is next to impossible; Ebay is probably the best source because Johnny Deere will say the main jet is no longer available even though you can still get the whole carb, figure that out. You may contact a local small engine company that services Kawasaki engines, if/when they ask you for the spec number change the last two digits from 00 to 01. They may ask you what it's in and depending on the parts guy if you say it's in a John Deere the conversation will be over. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the reply! I made a trip down the road and found that with a sonic tank and some triflow even damaged jets come out fine! all three carbs and we got all of them out. i've been trying for quite some time with jb80 to no avail.
 

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Glad you got it out, now soak the heck out of that carb for a day minimum and take a dental pick and work out the crud in each and every tiny little hole in that main jet assembly then throw the pieces back into the dip basket and let them soak with the carb.

Sent from the MTF Free App
 

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I know this works with brass in a cast iron carb on the old two cylinders. Take a torch and heat the brass till the flame changes color (I think it turns more green-been a while since I last did one). LET IT COOL. Then you should be able to spin the brass part right out. Of cource that is if you can get a flame to it without ruining the metal around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
alrighty! I got the carb tore down and had been soaking since monday morning, and thought I would have it licked,however.... now it runs well at an idle and at high rpm however it will run rich, you can smell raw fuel. Ive adjusted the idle circuit, but my thoughts go toward the float. being that it is plastic, there is now adjustment that I know of, any Ideas? the needle is in perfect shape and so is the seat but the float looks to sit a little high, which I believe may be causing my problem. any other ideas I can go on?
 

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Flip the carb over (up side down), with the bowl off the side of the float opposite the hinge should be slightly above horizontal. While you are in there shake the float and make sure it isn't holding gas. Triple check the needle valve and seat and make sure it's seating completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
im going to by a new needle tomorrow. I can flip the carb upside down and use a vacuum with a solid seal, however it seems to run rich from idle to high rpm. Ive even gone has far has checking the main jet seating on the jet venture, if that makes sense. the back of the float sits almost 1/8 of an inch lower then the front. but i does seem to seal, however Im guessing the fuel level may be to high? the other two carbs I have tore down and cleaned are the other style of carb with the solenoid in the bottom of the fuel bowl.
 
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