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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been looking for a 16G, but I wanted a fairly early one with a hand clutch and hydraulic lift and the Mag 16 for power. But this one came up locally and the price was right. So it's a later-build with the V-Twin Briggs and foot clutch and electric pump lift. One owner estate tractor, the guy passed last year and it last cut grass in early 2020 mowing season. The deck is perfect, carb needs cleaned, and it needs a good going over and servicing. But I couldn't pass it up for $500. The gamble is that the PTO is stuck on. I've read the threads on this and I'm hoping with lever adjustment and overfilling the trans with oil and pinning the driveshaft against the left footrest that I can knock it loose. Working hour meter reads 439hrs so I'm hoping the clutch cups aren't welded together where the only fix will be to open the trans up.

I'm hesitant about the foot clutch but it seems pretty comfy for my size 13 boot when I'm in the seat. My boy has a G series Kubota HST with foot pedal control and I hate it. I do like how high you sit up on these G frames too.
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Congratulations! It looks like it's in excellent condition. At 439 hours, it's not even broken in yet. If I had to guess, the PTO is just stuck, and needs to be freed up. Once it's free, you will likely find that it's already adjusted correctly.
 

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+1. Great grab!

How sure are you that the PTO is stuck? Even when disengaged it will turn some, it just won't take a load.

If it really is stuck, per Dave, work with it a bit. I would think you could get it loose. 439 hours is not a lot, it hasn't had all that much time to be abused.

Even if you do end up needing to open the trans to fix the PTO, it's still a great grab!
 
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Nice find, great price.

I have a 1995 G with the foot control and I love it. That Kubota is hydro drive, your GRAVELY is still dual clutch gear drive, big difference. You will be interested to see what I added to the foot control on my GRAVELY.

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I think you will also find the electric/hydraulic system has some advantages, and own quirks. Do you have any other attachments?

It looks from the pictures that the brake and clutches might need adjustment, based on how far down that brake pedal is. Those adjustments are related to make sure the clutch kick out works correctly when you hit the brake.

I have made many upgrades to my tractor which you can read about here:

Latest 16G improvements

Yes, the PTO may be stuck from sitting. As long as it was not abused, it is likely fine.

I think you are better off with the more modern engine. My Kohler Magnum M18 gave great service for 25 years but recently failed. I replaced it with a new Kohler Command Pro CH730 23.5 HP. I am very happy with the upgrade.

Among the improvements I have made that may interest you:

Dual crossed mower blades on the 50" deck
Improved headlights with a clear lens
Snow plow down force attachment
Individual rear wheel brakes (steering brakes)
Upgraded and improved steering linkage
And a list of other minor stuff and tips for better performance.

One really simple thing I did was to install the GRAVELY lift assist springs even with the hydraulic lift. It hold the deck more steady, with less rattling around and makes the lift work easier/faster.

Feel free to contact me by private message or openly on here if you have questions.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, guys. I can't wait to tear into it this weekend. But I gotta get off work today and go play in the snow with the older Gravelys. It's snowing pretty good here today :)
 

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I think you're going to really like that tractor. Good luck with it. It looks great!

I have one just like it, mechanically, except it has the older side logo decals (all white with three horizontal stripes). I have had a bunch of 16Gs over the years, and still have three.

The Kohler Magnums are good engines, but dated. The Briggs Vanguard is far more modern, smoother, and a little more economical to run. I like the electric hydraulics for the convenience of lifting without having to start it, but find the float position of the mechanical hydraulics easier on the lawn when mowing.

Mine has about 550-575 hours but was used in snow with a lot of salt. The footrests and lower edges of the rear seat pan have suffered as a result. It was owned by the county and so was otherwise well maintained.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a 38" snow cannon that I could see wanting to use on this if it becomes a keeper, but I'd have to source the longer G-series driveshaft. Would the 400/800 series blower mount brackets work on this tractor, or is that another G-specific bit of hardware I'd have to find? And is the front axle tube the same to accept the splined driveshaft link?
 

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A 38" blower may be a little too narrow for the rear wheeltrack on a G. I have a 38" blower I hook up to an 816S. The wheels are reverse mounted (narrower track) and the wheels just barely fit within the cleared path of the blower.

Yes, you will need a longer driveshaft.

The 400/800 brackets will fit so long as you remove about a 1/2"diagonal of one of the upper corners of the brackets. This is needed to clear a bolt that mounts the side trim on the G. Easy to do with a cut off wheel on a grinder. In fact, I have a pair of such modified brackets (white painted so 400?) on one of my tractors.

The front axle tube sizes are the same from the 800 on. The 400 may be a match but I have no experience with 400s. The double Spline ended shaft and bearings from the earlier tractors will fit the G.

The other thing you may want to do is increase the hydraulic pressure. If unmodified, it is likely running at 400psi. The blower can be lifted at 400psi but it moves sloooooowwwwly. It works much better at 1000psi. You will need to assemble a pressure gauge, some hoses and fittings and a T connection at the trans pump. The lift springs on a lift assist weldment will help a lot, too. None of this is mandatory. In fact, the guy I bought a G and a 48" blower from used it with the manual lift! He bought the tractor that way according to the original invoice that came with the tractor's papers when I bought it.

The lift assist spring upper mounts are also different. Their "handles" are bent outward to clear the G's side trim. I just bent mine from an 800 and they work perfectly.

Anyway, have fun! If you get the PTO unstuck (I agree with others, based on the hours I think you will) you will have a great tractor that yoiur find comfortable to use.
 

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The 400 blower driveshaft is completely different. Instead of a 15 spline shaft permanently installed through the front axle, the 13 splined shaft that goes through the front axle is attached to the rest of the shaft via a u-joint, and slides through 2 bronze bushings which are tapped into the front, and rear of the of the axle bore.
 

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That looks GREAT! even if you have to open up the transmission, or pay someone to fix it, it’s still a bargain in my mind.


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Discussion Starter #14
It runs! Had some bad fuel in the bowl but nothing had varnished yet. Sucked it out with the fluid extractor and cranked it over to pull some good fuel through the line and pump. Hooked everything back up and it fired off and ran. Moved it back and forth a few feet in the garage and the clutches seemed to engage ok. Next, exploring some mystery wiring and switches and starting to clean and service the tractor in general.
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I did the same carb cleaning a few months back.I bought this micro drill set to clean the jets.I also bought a tiny pin vise. They made the job easy and effective. There was hard clogging in some of the holes. Without using too much pressure, these drills did the trick.


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It runs! Had some bad fuel in the bowl but nothing had varnished yet. Sucked it out with the fluid extractor and cranked it over to pull some good fuel through the line and pump. Hooked everything back up and it fired off and ran. Moved it back and forth a few feet in the garage and the clutches seemed to engage ok. Next, exploring some mystery wiring and switches and starting to clean and service the tractor in general. View attachment 2492051
 

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Good work, Tom. Congratulations! The gas, and sediment in the bowl didn't look very appetizing.

Mikey, good idea. Thanks for the link. I'm going to check it out.
 

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That PTO is surely a nightmare you don't want to deal with. No way. Best to just flip it for $600 to some sucker who doesn't know the pain and suffering the stuck PTO will cause. PM this sucker...:ROFLMAO:
 

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A 38" blower may be a little too narrow for the rear wheeltrack on a G. I have a 38" blower I hook up to an 816S. The wheels are reverse mounted (narrower track) and the wheels just barely fit within the cleared path of the blower.
My 817 with a 38" blower had this problem. A pair 6-12 tires with narrow rims solved it. They bite better in the snow too.

I did the same carb cleaning a few months back.I bought this micro drill set to clean the jets.I also bought a tiny pin vise. They made the job easy and effective. There was hard clogging in some of the holes. Without using too much pressure, these drills did the trick.
A set of torch tip cleaners works great for this as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Been busy the last few days but I did have an hour or so over the weekend to attend to the G. Found the transmission to be full of milkshake, so it was drained and refilled and I'll drain it out again next time I have a chance to run it and work on it. So much for the perfect deck but it appears to only need that flat idler replaced. Still have to rewire or replace the automotive style key switch and get rid of some mystery wiring and an added kill switch and another switch in the dash that appears to do nothing.

The good news- I DID break the PTO clutch free via the driveshaft under the footrest/against the frame method. It took 3 tries but it broke loose and I couldn't be happier. Also adjusted for proper free play in the handle.
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