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Discussion Starter #21
The Turf Masters are pretty sweet! I'll probably go that way and downsize to original spec front tire size.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Another question. My forward clutch is fairly worn. Reverse looks to have little wear at all. Can I take them off and switch them?
 

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Another question. My forward clutch is fairly worn. Reverse looks to have little wear at all. Can I take them off and switch them?
Yes, the whole clutch hub assembly just slides off after you remove the linkage bar.

While you have them off, sand the metal disc on the tractor and the clutch lining with fine sandpaper. To do the lining, simply lay a piece of sandpaper, 300 git, on a hard very true surface, and pull the clutch assemble over it a few times.

Also, put some grease on the spline shafts.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks for the info. I thought they would reverse fine. Kind of like rotating tires. Maybe we should reverse them every other year or something?
Anyway just doing this swap should save me $.
 

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I bought my tractor new in the spring of 1996. Counting the original I am on my third forward clutch, and that was done just a few years ago. So I would say on average I have gotten 10 years/400 hours out of each forward clutch lining. I plow snow in the winter.......if it snows.

The reverse clutch has only been replaced once, and is still like new.

So, if you replace the worn lining, keep that spline lubed, keep them properly adjusted, you are likely looking at likely 10 years or more before you would have to replace another lining.

Sheldon
 

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Another question. My forward clutch is fairly worn. Reverse looks to have little wear at all. Can I take them off and switch them?
You sure can. Whenever you remove the clutches:
-check the clutch plates for wear on the splines (then lube the splines with grease)
-check that the bearings spin freely and quietly
-adjust the gap per the manual (or the sticky post)
Don’t let the clutch lining wear into the rivets or you will start to wear grooves in the clutch hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
If I need a new clutch, do you buy whole new cups and clutches? Or re-rivet old ones?
I know I've read somewhere about installing new material on some clutchs. It might even be a different machine.
 

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The serial on the tractor reads back as a 1988 model. The serial on the engine also corresponds to 88', so I would say you definitely have an 88' model tractor.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Rick- thanks for the info on the model year of my tractor. I think it's nice to know when it was made. I also have a better idea which manuals to refer to.

Yamato 72 I see what you are saying. I haven't been home to work on mine, but I p!an to pull the clutches soon. A bushing would hold the rivet down snug. Aluminum or ? rivets?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So I've been picking away at issues you find with a $650 1988 tractor. Going pretty good overall. New bushings and thrust bearings for both sides of the front end, new clutch lining for the forward clutch, new grease fittings, adjusting just about everything, fluid changes, oil filter adapter and filter installed, wiring repair, seat, etc etc. Believe it or not the thing that stumped me so far is the engine oil drain plug! When I went to drain it I realized that what I was screwing out was a 3/8" bolt from the center of a stripped drain plug. Apparently the drain plug got very chewed up and someone drilled and tapped the plug! I thought that I could get the plug out pretty easily as there was quite a bit of the plug still sticking out. NOPE! No matter what I tried it hasn't budged a bit. I broke a lot of little pieces off and bunged up the threads they tapped into it a little. I finally cleaned the threads up with a tap, wrapped the screw with several turns of Teflon tape, and put it back together so I could use it. I can't believe I couldn't get a plug out! Oh well another day!
 
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